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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hey guys long time since I have been on here and need some help,

I picked up a 307 2004 136bhp 6 speed HDi few days ago as a project

the price was right and I checked the car for codes and it had these:

p1471 - Permanent Fault EGR Butterfly (the wire is broke I looked at this today)
p0546 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor
p2408 - Fuel Cap Sensor
p1445 - Maximum additive level
p1351- Permanent Fault - pre/post heating relay circuit

when I got the car it only had 3 faults fuel cap sensor and glow plugs and additive to high the others showed up when I got home, the car has done less
that 5k miles since last mot the guy got a new car and never bothered with this,

I took the car out for a test drive and the engine pulled very well in fact I was impressed with the power form the engine as the other 136hp ones I drove were not as good as this one, I took the risk on taking this and the price was right for me.


now on to the help and questions, the fuel cap sensor being faulty planet says the cap is missing could I use the one from my car its a 307 2.0 110bhp with the fap removed software and exhaust or is this still needed. I have DPF fluid to top up to fix the level fault.

next question I have a EGR blanking plate to go on so I will do this any tips for this on a 307 136bhp?

last question I plan to do the glow plugs on this I was told its a pig to do
if I do them it will be when I do the timing belt is there anything I need to watch out for with the glow plugs and timing belt any special tools or would
it be the same as the HDi 110 2.0 engine using drill bits.


thanks for your help in advance guys.
 

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That engine in 307 must be a beast. I love how it pulls in 407 i can only imagine in a smaller car how it is.
I think you can dig in thru 407 topics since that engine is mostly common in 407. If the plugx werent removed ever before then be extremely careful not to snap them in. On mine it were already replaced so there were no problems, only EGR and the pipe had to be loosen in order to reach to all 4 glow plugs. What the garage told me is if those are never removed they sometimes even put penetrating fluid over night before trying to open them cause they known for being brittle. And they suggest for engine to be cold.

Here you can see how to test them in case it is maybe a relay problem but I it is more than a decent chance that some of them are dead.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qB8b8CCJdfg

For the timing belt I can snap you few photos from Haynes if that helps
 

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Not had to do the glow plugs on mine but I have also heard they are a nightmare to access in a 307.

As for the rest - shortly after buying mine I had the DPF gutted and a mild remap to circa 150bhp.

Although not pollution faults were showing the eolys fluid bag had many tiny holes and as such was starting to leak. Its a bad design as uses a thick plastic bag within a plastic box. Over the years this bag moves around slightly and rubs.

My only regret was not getting the egr valve mapped out at the same time as within a few months of having the work done I installed the blanking plate. This cuases an error on planet as the airflow is different to expected values. No warning on dash or any running issues. Using a blanking plate with slots makes installation much easier as access is tight.

Remember topping up fluid will not solve level fault until counters reset with planet/diagbox.

I would have thought the fuel car sensor from a 110 shoulde be the same but i would maybe look at part numbers on servicebox to confirm.
 

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The P1351 fault code may well be a false report. Every single 307 diesel I've done a diagnostic on has had this fault logged. It may well be something to do with the clone interfaces but it could also be genuine. If it were me, I'd sort out everything else but leave the glowplugs alone. Run the car to see if it regenerates (or maybe try a forced regen). If it regenerate then leave the plugs alone. If it won't regen then start looking at the glowplugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks guys for your reply's, I looked at that link with the video am going to try that tonight and see if they are dead or not if they are fine I will leave them and just carry on with the timing belt and blank the EGR valve with the plate I have.

ash, I have planet to reset the levels and I was going to remove the DPF filter and maybe remap it as well, a local re mapper told me they give good gains with 170bhp or round that one of the 136bhp he had in on the dyno was putting out 140bhp stock this was in a Volvo maybe the mapping is better on them.

storeman, I was reading up on that code and your right about it but if its a issue I will renew them,


I will report back guys on my findings tonight!

thanks again for your info:thumb:
 

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ash, I have planet to reset the levels and I was going to remove the DPF filter and maybe remap it as well, a local re mapper told me they give good gains with 170bhp or round that one of the 136bhp he had in on the dyno was putting out 140bhp stock this was in a Volvo maybe the mapping is better on them.
Deff worth removing in my opinion - if nothing else to get rid of the silly bag in a box.

Plenty of maps out there that suggest 160-170bhp without any further mods - I opted with a mild remap as clutch had already done 80k - shame the crank seal gave out around 96k contaminating clucth. Now it has new clucth and dmf I woudl have been tempted to push a little further. Think the big question is how much power the standard clutch/DMF can cope with from a reliability point of view.

TBH I am still very happy with power and pull it has. Any more and the handling just wouldn't match although mine is a SW. Tempted to try a set of lower vogtland springs but I do like the comfort at present.

EDIT: just a point of note the clutch/DMF combo changed circa 2007? and one seem significantly more expensive than the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
update:

fixed the wire to the EGR butterfly valve and solenoid valve was a fault had a spare so swapped it over and cleared the code that should be fixed.

I grabbed my multi meter and wanted to check the cap sensor and the glow plugs just like in the youtube link but the meter was dead and need a 9v battery i'll do this at the weekend.

any guys replaced the cap sensor on a 307? I think the wheel and the inner arch needs to come off to get at it.

Ash, did you not think of putting a solid kit on yours? i saw online that a few done this and thought it was a better feeling with the solid kit,

as for the price change did they not use a newer engine DW10ATED4 or DW10BTED in the later cars i think they still use these engines in the 308 and newer 308 2.0 as they come with 138 and 163bhp or would these be newer engines?
 

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update:

Ash, did you not think of putting a solid kit on yours? i saw online that a few done this and thought it was a better feeling with the solid kit,
Was my original intention however some reckon the engine is so much smoother with a DMF, especially if you are puching more power. I suppose there is a limit to this and that a a certain point you will start to get more slipping but for a sensible tune and a daily driver the DMF made sense. Not much price difference using LUK parts onec the whole thing apart.

As for clucth type etc - not really sure - I just know two were listed for mine as it was during a change over period (2007 car) and mine used later type which was slightly cheaper.

If you ever need to replace - do change crank seal when you are on -these are prone to leaking when hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think mine might be the early one to get the RHR engine in 2004 tho I maybe wrong, also with mine being the XSi version it never came with the cruse control but came with the auto dim review mirror I found that to be strange when I seen the car but after checking service box it was listed without cruse control,

talking about hot I noticed that when I got the car home and let it idle for a few mins out the door it was at 90 deg on the temp gauge I would never worry about this but it was just after a few mins should I be worried about this
the coolant was pink/red no oil in the bottle, may these engines run a bit hotter.

when am doing the timing belt I think I will to the cam seal to, do you know how much oil these take I was told they take 5l and another person told me 4.5l.

am I wise to do a oil flush treatment then some cheap oil then flush again with better oil after 500miles as its been sitting up for a bit not being used, the last owner got a serviced drove it for 4k and left it sitting after he got his new car.
 

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Mine gets to nearly 90c on occasion, if it does this when i'm nearing the end of my journey, I tend to wind down the windows and turn the heating right up on the last five or so minutes.

It's just paranoia i guess but i've an idea that using the heater matrix as a secondary radiator will dissipate some of the heated coolant and help cool the engine oil, which in turn should maybe prolong the life of the turbo?

Given that the turbo can generate a massive heatload, it may just be down to driving style.
 

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This never crossed my mind before and kind of makes sense. It'd be interesting to hear or find out if this works
Used to do this all the time on a tuned 1293 mini I ran - was fine travelling at speed but after a long run then into traffic the temperature would climb. Whack the heater on and it would keep it in check.


90 does seem a tad high, I'll watch mine and report back. Think the only time mine approaches that is if I've left the winter grill sheild on when weather has warmed up a bit.
Could be a partially stuck thermostat.


Unless the oil is sludgy I wouldn't personally use a flush treatment or even a cheap oil. I'd just plan to do your first change a little earlier than scheduled.
Remember if keeping DPF you need a low ash oil, if ditching it you can use pretty much anything you want as long as the rest of the spec matches up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
storeman, that was the first thing i checked to see if they were there i even put my 110 cap on and it was the same, i think i new or 2nd sensor might sort it... i hope :D

Ash, i was thinking a stuck thermostat but when i do the water pump i could change it so i know its new? then flush the old coolant and renew it,

as for the oil it looks a bit sludgy but not overly if you know what i mean, as for the oil what brand would you use if you were keeping the dpf for a bit
and do they really take 5liters ?:eek:

thanks again guys for all your reply's :thumb:
 

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as for the oil it looks a bit sludgy but not overly if you know what i mean, as for the oil what brand would you use if you were keeping the dpf for a bit
and do they really take 5liters ?:eek:
5.25ltrs including filter change.

I've had no problem using eurocarparts triple QX oil although I do tend to change around 6-8k. I tend to stock up when either they or carparts4less have it on offer. I think the last lot I bought was around £14 for 5ltrs.

If retaining the DPF you want a c2 or c3 specification oil, 5w30 should do nicely although I know a 5w40 would also be acceptable.

If ditching the DPF then the c2/3 doesn't matter as much.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well I had a chance to look at the cap sensor with the multi meter and check the ohm and its not coming up with anything I wonder if I had the right plug? I will grab a picture tomorrow.

am not driving the car at all until I get a few things sorted but what I do is start it up and let it idle for a while, the brother came round and I let him take
it for a spin and it was very jerky and some smoke out the rear this did not happen before now when I took the car home after buying it there was a dead spot around 1.5k I thought it was maybe a MAF issue but no codes I was not
worried, I checked the car for codes when we got back home and nothing bar the other codes I have listed I thought maybe it was the EGR so I had some time to spare tonight so I wanted to put the EGR blanking plate on and it was a
tight space to do this pictures below.






put plate on and done every thing up and the brother came back round and I told him that I put the blanking plate back on and he took it for another drive
and it was 100% better and the pick up was nicer so am happy that's sorted.


Ash,

C2,C3 oil is that for the newer RHR engines as on mine it says A3/B3 ?

I use the QX 10w40 oil on my 2.0 110 and never had any issues, I was told that the QX was made for euro car parts by shell

 

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C2,C3 oil is that for the newer RHR engines as on mine it says A3/B3 ?
I'm pretty sure its what is recomended for the RHR no matter what age - its mainly the fact its a low ash long service oil. Opie oils are generally good for oil advice.

It's really to protect the DPF - but personally I'd just remove, it will run better, pick up better even without a full remap. Plus you won't have to worry about regens, cap sensor or fluid. You prob won't even have to consider the glow plugs - the RHR starts well in cold weather without, they mainly get used during regen process.

You could save money by removing the DPF core yourself as its easy to access on the RHR, same with eolys bag. Then you just need someone to remap with the DPF delete, could consider having the egr programed out at the same time.
 
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