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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sept. 2012, bought our 307 estate, 55 reg. She had 55,000 on the clock. 10,000 miles so far and no major problems. I've uprated the headlights, replaced the exhaust, due to a breakage, with a stainless system, fitted a reversing light because the standard one is useless and upgraded the radio system. Head unit, speakers and an active bass under a front seat. I always end up altering a car in some way, so I'm happy with her. Reg. ends with ZDE so we call her Zebedee. Also fitted twin horns. Much better.
 
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Sod's law says it will brake now haha. Sounds like you have invested in the car though. What speakers did you put in the car? Wouldn't mind upgrading the standard ones in mine soon.
 

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I managed to find a complete s/s exhaust for £220. The speakers I fitted are Morel,with a silk cone tweeter on the dash. Whilst I had the doors down I also applied Dynamat to them. The active sub unit is a Pioneer unit which slips under the seat and is held with velcro strip. The head unit is a Pioneer with USB and I-pod connectivity. I can change channel etc. via the standard column stalk,but there's no head up display. Good colour match to standard panel lighting. Happy days.
 

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Your audio sounds very close to mine including head and under seat active sub sounds very good sound.

Never come across your speaker make but the change of dash tweeters was wonderful

I do fancy the ss exhaust when the time comes did you dump the cat when you did the job if so did it make more exhaust sound?




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Sod's law says it will brake now haha. Sounds like you have invested in the car though. What speakers did you put in the car? Wouldn't mind upgrading the standard ones in mine soon.
i have these in mine

Alpine SXE-1750S

there a direct fit,

heres how i modded them into the tweeter covers






i just unplugged the old ones that cut a small hole and pushed these in till i was happy

make sure you buy some clips for the doors before hand though. they always break lol.

i do need to take one of my speakers out it does rattle unless you pull the doorcard. maybe a few washers to clear it lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My tweeters are buried under the dash grilles. In the present climate, stealth is paramount. I mounted the door speakers into MDF rings.These made the fixing much more solid and the response of the speaker is vastly improved. The cone moves, not the door. The next step may be an amp. Head units don't push out a lot of power,mine is claimed to be 4 x 50 watt. This is not an RMS figure. Actual power is only about 4 x 20 on a good day. An amp of 100 watt per channel would be sufficient for this car. Back in the day, I had a Citroen BX 16 valve with a full system on board. That comprised 2 10" subs in the boot, component system in the doors and 3 amps. 1000 watt for the subs and 1000 for each door. A second battery was fitted in the boot.The subs were wired for 2 ohm,so the amp actually gave 2 000 watt. The standard rear speakers were driven by the head unit. Due to trick crossovers, the sound was coming from the dashboard. Sound level at full chat was 152 decibels. OTT. Took me a week to fit it and I stripped the interior to the shell to reinforce it and fit cabling, sound proofing etc.
 

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My tweeters are buried under the dash grilles. In the present climate, stealth is paramount. I mounted the door speakers into MDF rings.These made the fixing much more solid and the response of the speaker is vastly improved. The cone moves, not the door. The next step may be an amp. Head units don't push out a lot of power,mine is claimed to be 4 x 50 watt. This is not an RMS figure. Actual power is only about 4 x 20 on a good day. An amp of 100 watt per channel would be sufficient for this car. Back in the day, I had a Citroen BX 16 valve with a full system on board. That comprised 2 10" subs in the boot, component system in the doors and 3 amps. 1000 watt for the subs and 1000 for each door. A second battery was fitted in the boot.The subs were wired for 2 ohm,so the amp actually gave 2 000 watt. The standard rear speakers were driven by the head unit. Due to trick crossovers, the sound was coming from the dashboard. Sound level at full chat was 152 decibels. OTT. Took me a week to fit it and I stripped the interior to the shell to reinforce it and fit cabling, sound proofing etc.
i tried burying mine but the tweeters are oval shaped and no matter what i couldnt secure them underneath.

some come with flat tweeters that would glue underneath easy enough
 

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My tweeters are buried under the dash grilles. In the present climate, stealth is paramount. I mounted the door speakers into MDF rings.These made the fixing much more solid and the response of the speaker is vastly improved. The cone moves, not the door. The next step may be an amp. Head units don't push out a lot of power,mine is claimed to be 4 x 50 watt. This is not an RMS figure. Actual power is only about 4 x 20 on a good day. An amp of 100 watt per channel would be sufficient for this car. Back in the day, I had a Citroen BX 16 valve with a full system on board. That comprised 2 10" subs in the boot, component system in the doors and 3 amps. 1000 watt for the subs and 1000 for each door. A second battery was fitted in the boot.The subs were wired for 2 ohm,so the amp actually gave 2 000 watt. The standard rear speakers were driven by the head unit. Due to trick crossovers, the sound was coming from the dashboard. Sound level at full chat was 152 decibels. OTT. Took me a week to fit it and I stripped the interior to the shell to reinforce it and fit cabling, sound proofing etc.
i tried burying mine but the tweeters are oval shaped and no matter what i couldnt secure them underneath.

some come with flat tweeters that would glue underneath easy enough

how thick was the mdf you used?
 
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