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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My rear sliding door stopped working electrically a while ago and was very stiff to operate manually. I have just replaced the left sliding door motor with one I bought from ebay. Fitted it, adjusted the tension and the door moves freely, manually. However, it still won't work electrically. I removed it again and plugged it into the right hand side and the motor works fine. So I haven't bought a dud motor.
Does anybody know of any reason why it still doesn't work? Do I need to reset the door control ECU? Any help would be much appreciated.

I still have this problem. Anyone got any ideas please?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sorry for reviving this old thread. I have completely run out of ideas.
I'm hoping by now there are more members with some experience of 807 sliding doors.
I have replaced the door motor, centre carriage, piano key contacts, door closed/open microswitch and ECU. I don't think there is anything left to change.
Whenever I press any of the door buttons I get one beep, the door unlocks and springs out by a few mm then nothing. When I press it again I get 3 beeps.
I've tried opening and closing the door manually but still only get 3 beeps.
I've even tried swapping parts to the other door to see if I can transfer the fault but the right door always works fine. What am I missing?

If I had any hair I would be pulling it out. Any help please?
 

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Think you have forgetten more than we will ever know about the sliding doors, it is a source of constant wonder to me than ours still function despite 202K miles.
Have you tried assisting the door motor when it tries to open by pulling on the handle to rule out a stiff cable?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lol:D

I feel I know everything about these blimmin doors except how to fix them.
The motor isn't kicking in at all but I do know it works.
I have finally managed to get my pp2000 working and I have 2 fault codes.

PERMANENT FAULT-LH LOCK WITH INTEGRATED SWITCH-OPEN CIRCUIT
INTERMITTENT FAULT-LEFT DOOR ACTUATOR OUTPUT FAULT-OPEN CIRCUIT

My guess is that when the door unlocks there is no signal going to the motor to tell it to move. Anyone got any ideas?
 

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Luckily never had to repair one as yet but surely that day is coming.

There is only a hook on the body, the lock is in the door and that disconnects when the door opens. How can it work? Maybe when the lock opens it sends a pulse to the ecu to start the motor. You'd think the door should close despite the lock problem but when the system trips when the door catches on something the door has to be manually closed and then it resets.

Given you have replaced everything on the body I'm guessing the problem lies with the lock in the door, worth investigating to see if its micro switches are functioning.
 

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The more I think about this it is the door lock that is key, watch how the other door closes, it pulls itself shut and keeps closing beyond the lock position and then the lock clicks and door stops closing. If I am right then presumably the motor has to be told to get going by the lock opening in the door.
 

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Sounds like your door catch is the problem inside the door as that description says to me the door catch is being released when you press the button but it should then switch a switch internally to tell the motor to run but this is not happening as the switch is open circuit.

This would make sense as the motor cannot run before the door catch is released or it would burn out/snap the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Cheers guys. It's now sorted. Only took me 4 years.;)
I bought a complete door from a breakers for £80. took me 30 minutes to remove the old door and fit the new one. Pressed the button at it worked first time. I've never been so happy. Had to do a bit of tweaking here and there and swap over my tinted window glass and is all working fine. Plugged in PP2000 and "No faults found". Happy days. Now needs a respray as I have a bright blue door on a dark grey car.:D

Now for the next problem. The replacement door has a chromed handle which is peeling. I want to replace it with my original handle. Any ideas how these handles come off?
 

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Cheers guys. It's now sorted. Only took me 4 years.;)
I bought a complete door from a breakers for £80. took me 30 minutes to remove the old door and fit the new one. Pressed the button at it worked first time. I've never been so happy. Had to do a bit of tweaking here and there and swap over my tinted window glass and is all working fine. Plugged in PP2000 and "No faults found". Happy days. Now needs a respray as I have a bright blue door on a dark grey car.:D

Now for the next problem. The replacement door has a chromed handle which is peeling. I want to replace it with my original handle. Any ideas how these handles come off?
Would it not be easier and cheaper to swap the locking parts over, save respraying
 

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Well done, why not swop the lock from the blue door back to your grey door? That way you don't have to exchange the handles or get it re-sprayed. Pretty sure you can only remove the handle by taking the door innards apart to reach the handle securing nuts. Somebody will buy the blue door off you on ebay.
Had the best 3 years of my life in Truro 82-85, best.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My old door had a massive dent in it and was scratched to death. I also have a mate who will do the respray cheap. But I know what you mean. Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How do you/did you adjust the tension?
On the door motor mechanism there is a hex head socket (8mm I think)
If you turn it with an allen key you feel it ratcheting tight. If you go too tight you will have to push the centre of this mechanism in and turn the opposite way. Hope this makes sense.


sliding door motor.JPG
 

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Linczztop

Hi guys i am the proud new owner of a 2007 807 2.0 HDi executive and have been working through a few problems like passenger window not working from driver switch...success.. and reverse warning not working .. broken wire from bad tow bar installation but hopefully some body can help with this problem. ================================================ Driver side rear sliding door seems to work ok opening but when she closes the back part of the door pops back open after about 1/2 a second. No warning/fault shows on the dash. It will stay closed properly if i lean on the door whilst it is closing. Any help gratefuly accepted.
 

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What happens is the door keeps closing until the contacts meet at the front of the door on the B post and motor switches off. At that point the door lock should have clicked on the hook on the C post holding the door shut.
I think you need to check for displaced rubbers and if OK move the locking hook out a little. Maybe its bolts are a bit loose and has moved out of place?
 

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linczztop

Thanks wynB. I do suspect it is something to do with the latching mechanism but this seems to happen when the door has been open for a few hours , maybe the rubbers relax whilst its open, when it stops raining i will get the tools out again . Also the front edge rubber of the passenger side sliding door is missing so was wondering if previous owner had some issues with doors closing so i need to get one of those . very impressed you got back to me so quickly . Cheers
 

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No bother glad of the distraction, maybe its had a repair in the past and you have poorly fitted replacement door?
 

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linczztop

I take your point although I havn't fitted it , these are lovely motors but they do seem a bit tempermentle. will have a look this afternoon and post back later.... after the football. Thanks
 

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I've found once I had sorted the niggles they keep going, ours just passed 217K still with original engine and turbo but oil changed at least every 10K. Biggest problem now is the 3" of lost motion at the gear lever due to wear in the gear change bracket on top of the gearbox. I'm going to try some DIY shimming.....
 
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