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Discussion Starter #1
I've been having trouble starting the car from cold. When it does catch it is a bit smoky. Once it is running it is fine, no smoke and idles and runs fine. If the engine isn’t cold it normally starts OK without smoking.. so I’m wondering if the smoke is just unburned diesel from all the time spent cranking.

Anyhow..
Because it was only when cold and no codes I got the glow plugs and relay changed.. which didn’t resolve the issue. (no need to tell me this won’t work, a few of the plugs were dead though) It was still a pig to start and the garage pointed out that there was a cam position sensor warning. Switching out the sensor didn’t solve this.. I wondered if it was low cranking voltage causing the error.. a multimeter showed the voltage was pretty low when fighting to get it started. A new battery as got rid of the cam sensor warning, but it still doesn’t want to start. (diagbox seems to be reporting cam sync is fine too)
The garage weren’t sure what the problem was and suggested going to an auto electrician.

Next garage was an independent Peugeot specialist. After messing around with the injectors and I believe checking the pumps they found an EGR blanking plate. From that they’ve told me they saw no EGR flow and zero DPF load.. leading them to think the core of the DPF has also been removed and a bad ECU remap done.

I’ve struggled to find a DPF to fit the dw10uted4 (RHK). Looking under the car and at the Peugeot service software I suspect it has never had a DPF. It looks like there are two cats, but no DPF. This has me questioning if the diagnosis is correct at all. So I’m not sure what to do now.

Questions and stuff…

1) Does anyone have access to service box? Could I PM you the numbers from the end of the VIN to confirm my suspicion about the lack of DPF / two cat configuration.

2) If the engine has no DPF.. I’m guessing a 0 DPF load is right? The second cat is more/less where the DPF would be. I can’t see any pipes that look like the DPF sensor ones.

3) Am I right in thinking the EGR blanking would have required an ECU remap to stop it throwing warnings / errors?

The garage (and Diagbox) both seem to think that the EGR is operating correctly, so I’m not sure why it would have been blanked.. So I’m thinking of removing the blanking. I have no idea how long the blanking has been in place for.

More questions:

3) Can the blanking be removed (and EGR reinstated) before the ECU is reprogrammed to factory? Not sure what the implications of doing this would be. If I have the ECU done before the EGR blanking is removed I’m guessing it’ll throw errors / limp.

4) If I am removing the blanking.. I’m expecting there will be a load of old crap in the EGR system. Should I be worried about this? I expect that chunks of crap being ingested by the engine would be a bad thing. I was thinking of removing the pipe and checking / cleaning it.. and removing the EGR to clean if it looks blocked (though it passes the Diagbox test). Will this be enough? From what I can tell there is a cooler below the EGR.. but it sounds like I’d have to drain the coolant to remove / clean this.

5) How long does the engine need to run for before the injector correction values are valid?
I’ve got a bottle of BG244. I’m more than a little tempted to get the current correction values, then stick the BG244 in to see if it makes any different (to starting and the maybe the injector corrections).

That’s all I can think of. I’d be grateful for any ideas / suggestions. I’m in the Bradford / West Yorkshire area. I have access to Diagbox (but not the knowledge to interpret the data).
Thanks,
Dan
 
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