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this is a write up of how a member on another peugeot forum changed the clutch on his 407 hdi 2.0, he has asked me to point out if you follow this guide you do so at your own risk.........

PART 1
Hi Trem, here is the DMF write-up....

Firstly, the symptoms of the fault were....
My wife came home from work one day (after a 25 mile mostly motorway journey) and asked me to listen to the noise she heard stopped at the motorway roundabout waiting to pull out, the noise was a loud rattle at the passenger's side with a vibration on the clutch pedal and a strange wobbly feeling on the clutch....when the clutch was pressed the noise went away.
The noise and vibration got worse so I stopped her using the car.

I know the best way to tackle this job is to put the car on a 2 post ramp, the subframe does not need to be removed on a 2 post ramp....I had access to a 4 post ramp which is difficult to remove a gearbox on.

I had to place wooden beams across the ramp to allow a trolley jack to be placed under the gearbox to slide the gearbox out on, this method can be used if you are doing the job in a garage without the use of the ramp.....you must safely jack up the car to a good working height and firmly support the car on axle stands...SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT.

Ok, here we go...

You will need ....

A good size trolley jack big enough to fit under the gearbox to support the gearbox, preferably with a large base that will fit to the underside of the gearbox, if you don't have a large base use a piece of 6x2 about 8 inches square under the gearbox.
Axle stands.
Scissor jack or bottle jack to fit under the sump to support the engine.
A set of Torx sockets, male and female, good quality ones.
Metric spanners.
Allen sockets.
35mm socket for undoing the driveshaft nuts.
Socket set up to 24mm.1/2 inch drive.
3/8 metric socket set.
Screwdrivers.
Torque wrench.
Solid, large, breaker bar.
A good chisel in case you need to change the ball joints (I did).
Drain plug socket for the gearbox (special size for Peugeot).
Can of WD40.
You will get a new clutch alignment tool with the new DMF/Clutch assembly so no need to get one.
You will also need the 2 nylock nuts that hold the steering rack to the subframe. New ones.
Take out the locking pins from the driveshaft nuts and remove the driveshaft nuts....they are VERY tight.(35mm socket).

Safely jack up the car and support on axle stands.

Under the bonnet.....
Disconnect the battery, be careful to follow correct procedure.
Disconnect and remove the air filter and airflow meter assembly.
Undo the reverse light switch wires.
Take off 3 nuts holding a metal bracket next to the cylinder head and lift it out the way (it gets in the way undoing the gearbox to engine bellhousing bolts).
Undo the earth wire.
Take a large flat blade screwdriver and pop off the gear linkage connectors, then undo the 3 nuts holding the gear linkage cable bracket from the gearbox and move it out the way (you can do this under the car if you like).
Take out the 3 starter motor bolts (8mm allen bolts).
Get a cable tie and tie back the clutch cylinder operating rod to stop it popping out the slave cylinder, tie it round the rubber boot.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder to the gearbox and tie it up out the way.
Remove the engine to gearbox bolts 16mm socket size.

Under the car...for now.

Remove the under tray.

Drain the gearbox oil.

Next remove the driveshafts.

Firstly, the left hand side...
Take off the wheel arch liner...3 torx screws and a couple of plastic clips.
Remove the brake caliper bolts and remove the caliper and pads, remove the caliper bracket and brake disc.
Using female torx bits, remove the 3 bottom ball joint bolts (the centre one is smaller than the other 2).
Remove the nut and bolt at the bottom of the suspension arm behind the brake disc.
Spray WD40 down the splines of the driveshaft and using a block of wood to protect the threads, knock the driveshaft backwards out of the hub.
Pull the hub assembly towards you and remove the driveshaft from the hub assembly....it's a fiddly job!! You may need to turn the steering.
Pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox and store.
Go round the other side and remove the wheel arch liner and the right hand driveshaft.....
Same torx bolts, but there are 2 bolts holding a bearing into a housing at the back of the engine, remove these then pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox and from the bearing housing, the right hand one is easier to remove.

Back under the car....

Remove the 2 bolts holding the lower engine steady bracket and remove it.
Take off the lower intercooler piping from the intercooler and turbo pipe....be careful, it will have a little oil in it. Perfectly normal.

Remove the subframe.....

Fistly, remove the black steel frame from the front of the subframe behind the bumper, there are 2 bolts at the front, one either side, and 3x13mm bolts at either side.
The next bit bit is a bit tricky if you don't want to drain the whole radiator.....
Take off the small torx bolts at either side holding the power steering pipes to the subframe.
Remove the 2 bolts at either side holding the aluminium front section of the subframe....now get a container to catch water from the radiator....
Undo the spring clip holding the bottom radiator hose on and free off the hose but don't take it off yet....
If you have an assistant, get them to pull off the lower radiator hose whilst you (quickly, if you don't want a flood of water) drop down the aluminium subframe section getting your assistant to quickly stuff the hose back onto the radiator.You can do this single handed ...I did...but better to have an assistant.

Now the main part of the subframe....
Take out the anti roll bar link rod holding nuts and remove the link rods from the subframe.
Remove the 4 anti roll bar holding bolts and let the anti roll bar sit on the subframe.
Take out the nuts holding the 2 long bolts holding the power steering rack to the subframe off (replace them with new ones when you replace the rack).
Take out the bolts at the back of the subframe....3 at either side with a bracket.
Support the subframe with blocks and a jack then remove the 2 large bolts holding the subframe in position at the front at either side.
Lower the subframe taking care to gently remove the steering rack from the subframe....the bolts are long ones.
Shift the subframe out the way.

Under the sump are torx screws holding the plastic cover over the sump, remove this plastic cover.
Take out the lower turbo pipe to allow better access to a bolt holding the gearbox to the engine, you need to take off a chunky metal bracket with 2x13mm bolts and a 13mm bolt holding a thin bracket to gain good access to the upper turbo pipe mounting bolts (2x10mm bolts)...watch out for the metal gasket.

Now remove the gearbox to engine mounting bolt and the rest of the bolts holding the gearbox to the engine.

We are now ready to undo the gearbox mounting and remove the gearbox.

Support the engine with a scissor jack under the engine sump.
Support the gearbox withe large trolley jack under the gearbox.
Place wooden blocks under the diff casing to stop the diff side of the gearbox dropping down too far.
Remove the gearbox mounting.
Lower the engine and gearbox a little until the gearbox can be wheeled away from the engine without obstruction.
Using a large screwdriver or pry bar...gently pry away the gearbox from the engine and carefully wheel the gearbox away from the engine with it stable on the trolley jack, prop up the diff case side so it is steady and can't drop off the jack.
 

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PART 2

Now we are ready to remove the clutch and DMF.......

Remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel taking care to notice which way round the clutch spinner plate fits in case the new one isn't marked (it was marked on mine).

Undo and remove the 8 bolts holding the old DMF to the crankshaft, then carefully remove the old DMF.....be careful when the bolts are out THE DMF IS VERY HEAVY!!

Fitting the new DMF....

Clean off the surface of the new DMF where the clutch fits with brake cleaner.

Lift the new DMF onto the crankshaft, take care it is heavy and only has ONE peg to locate it onto the crankshaft then bolt it to the crank using 8 new bolts.

Torque it up to 54nm, I had 2 different tightening figures, 48nm and 54nm, I used 54nm. Tighten the bolts evenly across the DMF.

Next, clean up the surface of the pressure plate with brake cleaner.

Very lightly grease (a tiny bit) the clutch spinner plate splines (preferably use the correct spline grease, but a spot of high temp grease will be fine).

Try the spinner plate onto the gearbox splines, check that it fits and slides along the splines nicely. Check for writing on the spinner plate saying....GEARBOX SIDE.

Using the clutch alignment tool supplied or a standard tool if you didn't get one with the kit, fit the clutch to the flywheel and carefully tighten the bolts evenly all round, if you don't tighten them evenly you may get clutch judder...torque the bolts to 20nm.

Next...

Remove the old clutch release bearing from the gearbox shaft, clean up the shaft that the bearing slides on and lightly grease it.

Fit the new bearing onto the release fork and slide the new bearing onto the bearing shaft.Lightly grease the part that the operating rod fits into.

Refitting the gearbox....

Select a gear.

Slide the gearbox and jack towards the engine and jack up and align the spigot shaft to the centre of the clutch, smear a tiny bit of grease onto the spigot shaft end.

Slide the gearbox into the clutch and onto the engine taking care not force the gearbox onto the clutch shaft....mine just slid right in. Remember to support the diff case.

In extreme cases if the gearbox will not enter the clutch, I usually fit the driveshafts back in and turn one driveshaft whilst holding the other, feel for the gearbox shaft catching in the clutch splines and then push the gearbox in.

Refit all the gearbox to engine bolts and starter motor bolts and fit the gearbox mounting.

Before rebuilding everything, check the condition of the ball joints, it will be very easy to replace them whilst they are undone from the bottom suspension arm....just pull off the bottom part of the joint and, using a sharp chisel, knock off the old bearing shaft from the suspension hub.
Clean up the shaft and knock on the new ball joint.

Carefully rebuild everything in reverse order, taking care when fitting the steering rack bolts back into the subframe.

Don't forget to undo the bottom radiator hose when fitting the front aluminum part of the subframe and don't forget to top up the cooling system before you run the engine.

Watch out when fitting the subframe assembly to fit the power steering pipes the correct side of the subframe mountings (I didn't take note and had to remove the subframe mounting bolts).

Good luck with everything and take all health and safety precautions. Safety is paramount!

This was a huge job, even for a professional mechanic like myself....I wish I had use of a 2 post ramp!!

Please let me know if this is alright.

John.
 
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I can see why Peugeot had mine for over a day and cost me £400.... a bit more than the average DIY mechanic I think :thumb:
 

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Hi John wondering If u could help me

I'm doing a clutch an flywheel on my 407 and forgot which way round the clutch plate went... It's genuie clutch kit and it don't say on the plate flywheel side or gearbox side
Does the pertruding(sticky out bit on plate) go towards the gearbox or engine????
Seems to fit both ways :s thanx
 

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gearbox removal

Hi Trem, must have taken an age to type all that. What an informative post, very valuable as I will use that as a guide to my problem. I have the 1.6 but even so your guide must help no end, Brad
 
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Hi John wondering If u could help me

I'm doing a clutch an flywheel on my 407 and forgot which way round the clutch plate went... It's genuie clutch kit and it don't say on the plate flywheel side or gearbox side
Does the pertruding(sticky out bit on plate) go towards the gearbox or engine????
Seems to fit both ways :s thanx
Sticky out bit goes towards gearbox!
 

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Hi Trem1,

my name is Detlef, i live in Germany and i found your write-up with google.
It is very good and i want to thank you for this. Unfortunately the link to the pictures does not work and therefor i beg you to send me the pictures via email. Is this possible?
Sorry for my english, i know it isn`t perfect :))
thx...Detsch407sw
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Trem1,

my name is Detlef, i live in Germany and i found your write-up with google.
It is very good and i want to thank you for this. Unfortunately the link to the pictures does not work and therefor i beg you to send me the pictures via email. Is this possible?
Sorry for my english, i know it isn`t perfect :))
thx...Detsch407sw
just checked and the pics dont seem to work anymore for me either, i will chase this up and get back to you
btw your english is fine :thumb:
 

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Problem removing thrust bearing from clutch arm....HELP!!!

Hi, I can't get the gearbox out because I am having trouble getting the thrust bearing off of the clutch arm...I have tried using a bar, big screwdrivers and don't want to force and break it!!! Do you know if there is a special tool for removing the thrust bearing from the clutch arm? Would appreciate any advice you could offer.
 

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I had big problems with the thrust bearing myself last week, it was totally stuck.

I was taking out the whole engine/gearbox assembly thought, due to broken bolts on exhaust manifold/egr cooler while trying to change glow plugs, so I had to take it all out to fix that.



I splitted the driveshaft (this I suppose won't be necessary if you still have the engine in place in the car), then lifted it all out. Then undid gearbox to engine bolts and slid the gearbox off.

When gearbox was out I undid the 4 bolts (16mm hex head) on the aluminium casing that holds the bearing and took away the driveshaft and bearing housing tohether.

Made a sturdy metal plate where I welded a small piece of tube onto the middle of the place. I placed this onto the splined end of the driveshaft (after applying some tape to protect the splines). First I also drilled two holes on each side of the plate and used M8 threaded bars from the bearing housing up to my metal plate. Added some nuts at the end where they went through the plate and started tightening it up. Bearing came out stepwise with banging noises now and then. I had to tighten it so hard as it was necessary to use a strong plier to avoid the threaded bar rotating.

It was siezed more or less totally stuck, and sledgehammer and chisel did not bodge it at all.

I changed the bearing also in the same process, used the same plate on the end of the driveshaft, and put one of these bearing puller tools behind the bearing on the shaft (it's important that the bracket (tool) you have at the end of the driveshaft is really sturdy, unless it will often just bend) as it is quite some force needed. I used M12 threaded bars for the pulling of the bearing to avoid destroying the threads.



Bearing off:



The bearing actually didn't seem to be defect though, but I changed it anyway as I already had bought an replacement.

New bearing was quite easy to get into place, I just placed the half-driveshaft onto a piece of wood, then located the bearing and the metal bush onto the shaft, and used a thick walled tube (obviously with inner diameter larger than the shaft) and slammed it onto the bush. After 3-4 hits it was all in place. Remember to tape up the splines and also the oil-seal area where the shaft seal is located in the diff housing.
 

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Sorry, I see now you were asking about thrust bearing from the clutch arm?

The thrust bearing (release bearing) you can just pull of the lever by hands, but then you obviously need to take off the gearbox first.

Maybe it was the driveshaft bearing you were asking about after all, or is yours a 1.6 HDi?
 

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Hi, The post was actually for my dad. It's a Peugeot 407 and he said it has an inverted...something?!....basically it's not a normal clutch that most cars have. I did forward the message you wrote to him. He has had another try 2day and managed to get it off...finally!!!
Thank you very much for your detailed response, it was much appreciated. Have a great day :)
 

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On the other Peugeots I've been working on with a pull type clutch the release bearing will stay on the pressure plate when the gearbox is slid off the engine.

At least that is for the 1.9 TD 405 and the 405 T16. Not necessary to release it as it will let go when you start to slide off the gearbox. (you need to ensure that the clutch arm is free to move though, so remove the slave cylinder first).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just tried retreiving the pic's for this but it looks like theyve gone, i will try over the next week to get intouch with original poster and see if i can get them back
 
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