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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New here and new to Peugeots....
I am having an issue of a 2007 ’57 Peugeot 407 2.0 HDI cutting out and wondered if someone can throw some light on it. I will try to document what has happened and been done so far.
Problem Started:
Filled up with Diesel and topped up oil (oil from approx. ¾ to just under full) (Fuel Full Tank)
Drove approx. 7 miles no issues
Turned off car, loaded (for short break), with luggage, wife and dog and set off, dry warmish day.
Drove approx. 5 miles car beeped with ESP/ASR and Anti Pollution Warning, engine light on (reduced power), so, pulled over stopped car, used generic (I Know) scanner with Bluetooth and got error due to Turbo Wastegate. Reset MIL and contained on our way, drove 85 miles with no issues, until we arrived. Turned off car went for walk/drink/eat about 45 minutes, returned to car, drove off about 4 miles, ESP/ASR, Antipollution warning, this time also OIL Light (RED) came on and car cut out, coasted to layby, turned off ignition, tried to read codes and NO CODES and no MIL Light on. Restarted car and drove another 1-2 miles same thing, started car drove straight to destination and parked up, 2 days later started car and drove home 85 miles NO FAULT, turned off car unpacked, 45 mins started car went to shop and cut out, same messages.
Right, so I changed:
Fuel Filter (drained bowl)
Air Filter (removed housing cleaned MAF and housing) and refitted
Removed EGR, Cleaned and checked movement refitted (did not check electrics)
Removed Brake Light switch, refitted, checked brake lights all appear ok.
Following this work drove around a few miles 10 or so and then the following day to work and home approx. 50 miles, no issues.
Today on way to work within 5 miles of home car cut out twice, ESP ASR Fault, no de/anti pollution warnings this time, I think oil light came on the 2nd time but not the first. Again no Engine MIL Light so no codes stored.
I have planet but have never used it, what should I be looking for?
Any Ideas/help would be very appreciated, oh and apologies for the length of post but trying to get as much detail in there as possible.
 

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Your symptoms point towards it being an electrical fault. These cars are very sensitive to getting the correct voltage/amperage so any lack of good supply triggers all sorts of issues.

Firstly I would get the battery load tested and test the alternator for output supply.

Then check ALL positive and ground connections from the battery. Remove each connection, clean and grease and replace. Follow the ground connection from battery->body->engine, remove each and clean/grease/replace. Check for potential breaks in cables, particularly at the connector ends.

If the above does not sort your issues, start with testing your ignition switch is making good contact when running [bridge it to guarantee supply once started] and checking the fuse box in the engine bay for corrosion/bad connections.
 

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oh, and if you use PP2000/Diagbox and run a check for faults, if you see the word 'intermittent' in several places in listed faults, this will tend to confirm the fault lies in the electrical supply/grounding system, not in the individual components.
 

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Hi...I had very similar faults (asr.esp) as well with my '57' 407 that included intermittent non start/crank ,blank dash.....changed fuse box ..all ok ...good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow, so many replies and so quick, thank you all! I drove home tonight after filling up with no problem. I will cgeck the battery, alternator and cables/connections and take itfrom there. May well fure up Planet for the first time and see if I can get to grips with that as well. Thanks again, appreciate your time.
 

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I had an issue a few months back when my car would cut out whenever I came to a stop at a junction, in traffic, roundabout etc and wouldn't start again once it had happened a few times. I tracked it down to a faulty/sticking fuel regulator. Had no fault codes either except once I got a red STOP light. And I always had an ASR\ESP light on anyway.

The way I tracked it down to the fuel regulator was by running\testing the fuel regulator actuator in Peugeot Planet, and then the car started when I turned the key, guess it freed itself. I think the fuel regulator was also leaking back up into the connection and maybe shorting it out too. as sometimes after breaking down it would startup again the next day no bother!

Probably not the same issue but worth checking out. In my case when the car cut out by itself it wouldn't start again, but if I turned off the ignition it would always start again.

I usually use Diagbox instead of Peugeot Planet though, mostly for graphing live values. And Diagbox seems to find a few faults that PP2000 doesn't, like a rear heated screen error that doesn't show on PP2000. I have a spare laptop hard drive with PP2000 on it and I'll swap it out sometimes over for a second opinion.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi all, thought I would/should provide an update, managed to get some time on issue today, have had a couple of faults this week so ruled out fuel as have filled up with the best! Have had oil pressure warning, esp warning and turbo wastegate error that resulted in mil illuminated with code p0295 (I think) or p2095.

Anyway, checked battery with multimeter, got 12.20v, with car running get 14.05v from cold with auto lights on, is this low?

Took battery off, removed fusebox (engine bay) cleaned, also removed and cleaned earth's, no sign of any real issues with wiring that are obvious anyway, have refitted and now need to run/test.

I did get to run pp2000, did an ecu all test and it came back with faults on esp/add intimittant which I cleared.

Based on advice provided (thank you) and that no actual fault can be found I am going with electrical issue, if it persists I will change fuse box then alternator and maybe battery what do you guys think, is that alternator reading low?

Cheers
David
 

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What's the esp fault?

I recently had an esp fault (no communication) and it was due to a stuck egr valve. The esp needs to know the correct torque value to work correctly (giving extra torque to certain wheels to help turn a skidding car) and to get a correct torque value it needs to calculate the correct amount of air, and the egr position is involved in the calculation. I tracked it down by noting in Diagbox that the torque graphed value was invalid.

Have a good look at all the errors and try doing a bit of detective work on them to see where they originate, and see if it's relevant to the problem. The errors can be a bit misleading sometimes. Have a good look at the fuel and air values in Diagbox too, while the car is running, and see if you notice anything suspicious. See if the measured values correspond with the recommended values.

Battery values look a bit low alright 12.4v and 14.4v would look a bit nicer.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update 16th May
Right thought it time to provide an update and thank you to everyone who contributed.
The car now appearso tbe fine following a BSM (Under Bonnet) Fuse Box replacement.
I purchased a replacement from the local Peugeot Dealer (Cambridge) about £85+ changed it over 2 weeks ago and 500 miles later no issues/lights etc.
I have also removed the IAT and cleaned (it was bad) and gave the throttle body a quick clean whilst I was at it, to be honest it wasn't too bad and I suspect it had been off before as 1 of the holes for the bolts to go through is actually broken, which I had missed in previous inspection (non removed)

i have inspected all vacuum hoses and they appear to be ok, went to do an oil chage whilst I was tinkering and can not get the sump plug out as it appears to be a Torx type but an odd size, I have T50 and T55 and it falls in between those, I have a replacement already on order so I will get back to it hopefully this weekend, if anyone has any ideas regarding its removal feel free to reply, I wont mind!

Thanks Again

David
 

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Update 16th May
Right thought it time to provide an update and thank you to everyone who contributed.
The car now appearso tbe fine following a BSM (Under Bonnet) Fuse Box replacement.
I purchased a replacement from the local Peugeot Dealer (Cambridge) about £85+ changed it over 2 weeks ago and 500 miles later no issues/lights etc.
I have also removed the IAT and cleaned (it was bad) and gave the throttle body a quick clean whilst I was at it, to be honest it wasn't too bad and I suspect it had been off before as 1 of the holes for the bolts to go through is actually broken, which I had missed in previous inspection (non removed)

i have inspected all vacuum hoses and they appear to be ok, went to do an oil chage whilst I was tinkering and can not get the sump plug out as it appears to be a Torx type but an odd size, I have T50 and T55 and it falls in between those, I have a replacement already on order so I will get back to it hopefully this weekend, if anyone has any ideas regarding its removal feel free to reply, I wont mind!

Thanks Again

David
See here regarding a sump plug related nightmare I had on my Megane.

You might be able to hammer the T55 in enough to get the plug turning. Otherwise, another method would be to chisel a notch in the plug and use a drift to tap it round.

Or you can weld a 19mm bolt and nut to it :D
 

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Update 16th May

i have inspected all vacuum hoses and they appear to be ok, went to do an oil chage whilst I was tinkering and can not get the sump plug out as it appears to be a Torx type but an odd size, I have T50 and T55 and it falls in between those, I have a replacement already on order so I will get back to it hopefully this weekend, if anyone has any ideas regarding its removal feel free to reply, I wont mind!

Thanks Again

David
I've opened my sump a few times to let out some oil, think I used a 21mm socket and a cheater bar (judging by the one socket in my set that's black :)).
 
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