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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
Has anyone had any experience of changing the glowplugs and the glowplug relay on a 2,2 hdi, I started having problems this winter in the very cold mornings starting the car, just recently I have had an OBD reading of P1351.

This would seem to confirm that the glowplugs and or the relay need replacing.

It looks like the plugs are located at the front of the engine under the header pipes which look like a pain to access, I have also been unable to locate the relay.

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.

My vehicle is a 2011 Peugeot 4007 purchased in France.

Cheers Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update

Update,
I have worked out exactly where the glowplugs are located they are on the front of the engine the 2 on the left hand side look easy to access and the 2 on the right look very difficult as they are under the inlet manifold.

The lead which is attached to the plugs has plastic caps on, does anyone
know if they just pull off or is there a trick to releasing them, it also looks like the relay for the glowplugs is on the right hand side close to the right hand side headlight.

Has anyone a diagram of the engine bay.

Cheers Tony
 

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Glow plugs aren't generally needed for cold start unless the temperature is seeveral degrees below zero or for DPF regeneration.

The P1351 error has appeared on every car I've run a diagnostic on, even those that were regenerating as normal and even on petrol engined cars which don't have glow plugs. One member did a diagnostic on his own car before taking it to a Peugeot dealer and had the P1351 code showing up with his PP2000 but when it was connected to the dealer equipment there was no sign of this code. It appears that many clone diagnostics give this particular fault code even if it isn't really there.

On both of my 307's the main reason for not starting from cold was failing batteries and the same with my current 308.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hi.
I have worked out a way to test the glowplugs on the right hand side of the engine bay, by the battery is a large relay which has a blue locking lever (which you simply pull out to unlock the relay) it is attached to the chassis by a couple of bolts.

When you remove the relay you can see the terminals which are connected to each of the glowplugs. The numbering is as follows (4 12v in / 5 ground / 3 and 8 switching ) pins 1,2 6,7 are connected in series to the four plugs with a multimeter connected to ground you can test all the plugs with the meter set to ohms you should have about 1-2 ohms which is the resistance through the coils of wire in the plugs to ground.
In my case three of the four were open circuit. You can confirm this by removing the cap and putting the multimeter probe on the cap of the glowplug.

The car starts without any problems however once the temp drops to about -5 deg C
the car will not easily start. not real good for a 2011 vehicle but it has now done 100,000 klm.

The plugs are on the front of the engine and can be seen with small black caps over each terminal. Number 3 is under the manifold and very difficult to access the others can be accessed but you need long nose pliers to pull the caps off and a special 8mm extension glow plug spanner to remove.

I haven't done mine yet this information is what I have discovered so far.
Apparently removal must be done very carefully as they can shear very easily with excessive torque, apparently they come out with less force when the block is warm.

You can test the relay by simply getting someone to turn on the ignition while holding the relay you should feel it activate then release quite quickly, although it doesn't prove the voltage is actually getting to the plugs it does prove the relay is powered and switching, which would seem to indicate the relay is in good order.
relay part no 51252002

I will post later after I have replaced the plugs.

Thanks to people who replied.

Cheers Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Winter is coming

OK, Job completed, I replaced 3 of the 4 plugs using Bosch (0 250 203 012) heater plugs.
Cost was 60 euro's.

The job needs a deep 8mm socket/universal joint plus a couple of extensions and ratchet.

It only took me about 40 mins in total.

The left hand two remove very easily just pull the caps off and remove, the right hand one is deep in a very small access area, however I used a small bar with a hook on the end to remove the cap then several extensions (about 8 inches needed)
Once the plug was unscrewed I needed a stick with a magnet on the end to remove the plug, which worked great. To replace the right hand plug I used the magnet on a stick method which worked very quickly. I didn't need to disassemble anything on the engine except for the plastic engine cover.

I did remove all the plugs with the engine quite hot after about a 30 min drive, all the plugs came out without very much effort, I replaced them with only the same torque needed to remove them.

As I mentioned plug no.3 (counting left to right) is totally inaccessible so I only did the three, I measured them after removal and all were open circuit.

If you have issues starting in cold weather I bet this is your problem.

Oh one more thing I also changed the oil, usually I remove all the little plastic clips from the engine guard to access the drain, however last time I did the oil change I noticed there is a little panel you can remove which is held in by just two bolts, this gives access to the drain plug....:lol:
 
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