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Hi I have an issue with my Heater. I've read up and it seems that there's air in the System. This is from when the previous owner took the car for a Tappet Cover Gasket replacement, a inexperienced technician did NOT bleed the water system correctly so my heater doesn't work. Anybody live in my area (March, Chatteris, Ramsey, St.Ives Cambs) that is experienced enough to help me do the Job?
Thank you!
 

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Turn the heat to hot and full start and run the engine. Bleed from
The thermostat housing and keep the coolant cap off squash some coolant pipes and make sure the car gets up to
Tempreture

Never had an issue this way


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Is the coolant level in the header tank still correct? Often it can push the air out when running but this drops the water level there.
I have always done as suggested above and never had a problem.

Some models had an extra bleed valve on a pipe behind the engine, but I have never bothered with that.
 

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Did you have any luck solving your problem? I reckon I’ve got an air lock still despite bleeding both valves and can’t seem to shift it!
 

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Did you have any luck solving your problem? I reckon I’ve got an air lock still despite bleeding both valves and can’t seem to shift it!
Had the same problem with a 308 ive just brought, little to no heating, I tried everything in the book, bleeding, getting it to temp, checking the damn weird thermostat thing was opening, all the pipes were eventually getting red hot, so I removed the 2 pipes going into the matrix and stuck a hose on it, turned on full power at the tap, no apparent blockage in the matrix, so after about 2 or 3 days of trying different things, turns out to be the water pump, crappy plastic impeller that doesnt last long at all on the original part, if it turns out to be this for you, its dead easy to change, and get the upgraded version that comes with the metal impeller, heating is working fine now, you'll probably have to go to ebay for that part as the regular stores only had the plastic ones.

This is the one for my particular model https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WATER-PUMP-BMW-MINI-ONE-R56-R57-R55-COOPER-s-MEYLE-2-year-warranty-11517648827/392163648576?fits=Car+Make:Peugeot|Model:308|Cars+Type:1.6+16V|Plat_Gen:4A_,+4C_|Cars+Year:2007|Variant:4A_,+4C_+[2007-2013]+Hatchback&epid=248518991&hash=item5b4ec66440:g:Yv4AAOSwFzZb2YDY:rk:3:pf:0
 

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There is often an overlooked bleed point on the bulkhead at rear of engine bay where the pipes join to the heater matrix. I have found a few times bleeding there gets the heater working
 

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There is often an overlooked bleed point on the bulkhead at rear of engine bay where the pipes join to the heater matrix. I have found a few times bleeding there gets the heater working
This is very true, its difficult to see, but it looks like a dust cap off a car tyre, I got to mine by removing the air induction pipe, just one 10mm bolt to remove and a jubilee clip then this pipe pulls out, you can then clearly see the 2 pipes going into the matrix, one of them has the bleed screw on it.

There is another bleed screw on or near the thermostat housing, its a big cross head screw and made out of plastic, so be very careful with it, get an over-sized flat head screw driver on it and push the screw driver into the cross so that it sticks, because if you completely take this screw out, then good luck to you to get it back in, its deep down and covered in pipes and wires, just to the right of the rocker cover as you are looking at the engine, just make sure you unscrew it all the way and then just leave the screw driver wedged into it so you can guide it back in using the screw driver.
 

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Cheers Seanie, I think this could be my next port of call! Can you recommend any good guides on how to do it at all?

Only thing I’m wondering is that if it was the pump then surely the car would overheat?

Also did you need to replace the belt with it? I have spotted kits that include the new gasket and belt, wonder if it’s worth it?

Did you have any luck solving your problem? I reckon I’ve got an air lock still despite bleeding both valves and can’t seem to shift it!
Had the same problem with a 308 ive just brought, little to no heating, I tried everything in the book, bleeding, getting it to temp, checking the damn weird thermostat thing was opening, all the pipes were eventually getting red hot, so I removed the 2 pipes going into the matrix and stuck a hose on it, turned on full power at the tap, no apparent blockage in the matrix, so after about 2 or 3 days of trying different things, turns out to be the water pump, crappy plastic impeller that doesnt last long at all on the original part, if it turns out to be this for you, its dead easy to change, and get the upgraded version that comes with the metal impeller, heating is working fine now, you'll probably have to go to ebay for that part as the regular stores only had the plastic ones.

This is the one for my particular model https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WATER-PUMP-BMW-MINI-ONE-R56-R57-R55-COOPER-s-MEYLE-2-year-warranty-11517648827/392163648576?fits=Car+Make:Peugeot|Model:308|Cars+Type:1.6+16V|Plat_Gen:4A_,+4C_|Cars+Year:2007|Variant:4A_,+4C_+[2007-2013]+Hatchback&epid=248518991&hash=item5b4ec66440:g:Yv4AAOSwFzZb2YDY:rk:3<img src="http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Stick Out Tongue" class="inlineimg" />f:0
 

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Dead easy to change, drain your coolant, release the tentioner, and remove the belt, if you have that plastic engine cover under the car you will need to remove that, now put a jack under the engine, remove the top engine mount and lower the engine on the jack about 2 / 3 inches, now get under the car, remove the pulley wheel off the old pump, 3 bolts, and now remove the 5 bolts holding the pump in place, pull out the pump, you will get covered in some coolant left in the pump, fit the new pump, fit the pulley wheel to it, now go back to the top of the car, jack the engine back up and refit the engine mount, fit the belt and tension it, remove the jack from under the engine and refit the plastic splash plate.

Continued below.......
 

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The heat worked on my car for about 2 days, so I suggest you try the below first, I will try and take a video of it tonight if it's still light so you can see exactly what I mean in the below comment.

Turns out I needed a new matrix in the end, if it was this all along I don't know, but I have a garage by me who will clean your old matrix for a small fee, but won't touch Peugeot matrix's as they are so prone to block, I picked a cheap one up off eBay and was surprisingly easy to fit, again you will have to drain your coolant, then open the passenger door, the kick plate on the passenger side of the centre console needs to be removed, the matrix is right behind it, you need to remove 2 metal clips holding the metal water pipes to the matrix, remove 4 X 8mm bolts, pull the metal pipes away from the matrix gently, and slide the matrix out, it has a plastic cover on it which will have to be transferred to the new matrix, it took me about 40 mins to change it on my drive, fitting the new one is just reverse of this.

If you want to see if this is the problem, remove it and try and blow through it, mine was restrictive as hell, the new one (matrix only) cost me £35 off eBay, it's been fine now for about 2 weeks.
 

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Cheers for that mate, I’m not totally convinced it is the pump because it’s not overheating and it seems to be recirculating.

With the matrix I did clean it out with the hose and got a really good flow - could it still be a blockage with this you think?
 

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Cheers for that mate, I’m not totally convinced it is the pump because it’s not overheating and it seems to be recirculating.

With the matrix I did clean it out with the hose and got a really good flow - could it still be a blockage with this you think?
Water was flowing clear out of mine too which is why I took sights off the matrix being at fault, im not sure why the heating actually worked for a couple of days after I changed the water pump, maybe the new pump was just pushing the water harder through it, it never got toasty hot as it does now though.

Anyway, I too had really good flow, but it looks like it was probably just going in and coming straight back out again, kind of just going around the perimeter of the matrix, and bypassing the thinner tubes that are required for the blower to blow heat up through the vents, this was verified when I removed the old matrix and tried to blow through it, I couldnt hardly blow through it at all and next to no air was coming out the other pipe.

I paid £36.50 for the new matrix, I guess he thought he was selling them too cheap so he's since put the price up a bit, but they are still very cheap, and next day delivery via DPD: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183396713841
Make sure its correct for your model before purchasing it though.

Just in the process of uploading a short video to youtube to show you where it goes and how easy it is to get too.
 

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Water was flowing clear out of mine too which is why I took sights off the matrix being at fault, im not sure why the heating actually worked for a couple of days after I changed the water pump, maybe the new pump was just pushing the water harder through it, it never got toasty hot as it does now though.

Anyway, I too had really good flow, but it looks like it was probably just going in and coming straight back out again, kind of just going around the perimeter of the matrix, and bypassing the thinner tubes that are required for the blower to blow heat up through the vents, this was verified when I removed the old matrix and tried to blow through it, I couldnt hardly blow through it at all and next to no air was coming out the other pipe.

I paid £36.50 for the new matrix, I guess he thought he was selling them too cheap so he's since put the price up a bit, but they are still very cheap, and next day delivery via DPD: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183396713841
Make sure its correct for your model before purchasing it though.

Just in the process of uploading a short video to youtube to show you where it goes and how easy it is to get too.
That makes a whole lot of sense!!
I reckon I’ll probably give that a shot then, thanks for uploading a video buddy - I owe you a pint of something!
 

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That makes a whole lot of sense!!
I reckon I’ll probably give that a shot then, thanks for uploading a video buddy - I owe you a pint of something!
https://youtu.be/flYNyw_dN1o

ps, make sure you have a big towel handy as you will get a bit of coolant coming out of the matrix and pipes when you disconnect them.

They also recommend that you change the O rings on those 2 metal pipes, but I just re-used the old ones that were still on there, they were not damaged in anyway, just leave the side panel off and when you have re-filled the coolant, start the engine, and let it all get up to temperature, keep an eye on those 2 pipes for any leaks, if all is good, you can replace the panel, you will need to bleed the system, especially the matrix one which is under the bonnet right at the back by the bulk head on one of the rubber matrix pipes (usually the top one) it looks like a tyre valve dust cap, you'll get loads of air coming out of there, wait until you have a steady flow of water coming out of it then replace the cap.
 

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That makes a whole lot of sense!!
I reckon I’ll probably give that a shot then, thanks for uploading a video buddy - I owe you a pint of something!
https://youtu.be/flYNyw_dN1o

ps, make sure you have a big towel handy as you will get a bit of coolant coming out of the matrix and pipes when you disconnect them.

They also recommend that you change the O rings on those 2 metal pipes, but I just re-used the old ones that were still on there, they were not damaged in anyway, just leave the side panel off and when you have re-filled the coolant, start the engine, and let it all get up to temperature, keep an eye on those 2 pipes for any leaks, if all is good, you can replace the panel, you will need to bleed the system, especially the matrix one which is under the bonnet right at the back by the bulk head on one of the rubber matrix pipes (usually the top one) it looks like a tyre valve dust cap, you'll get loads of air coming out of there, wait until you have a steady flow of water coming out of it then replace the cap.
Fantastic, nice one mate and cheers for the video! I’ll go matrix shopping!
 

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If you had good flow through the matrix once removed and no deposits coming out, it more than likely matrix was fine and you had an airlock in the matrix or feed pipes which you cleared by changing the matrix due to part draining down and filling system
 

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If you had good flow through the matrix once removed and no deposits coming out, it more than likely matrix was fine and you had an airlock in the matrix or feed pipes which you cleared by changing the matrix due to part draining down and filling system
Hey Windy, thanks for that mate - that’s a thought I’ve had actually, I wonder if I’ve still got a big airlock somewhere. I’ve bled the system of course.... any other ideas on how I could check or get any sticky airlocks?
 

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If you had good flow through the matrix once removed and no deposits coming out, it more than likely matrix was fine and you had an airlock in the matrix or feed pipes which you cleared by changing the matrix due to part draining down and filling system
water was flowing through mine (or appeared to be) perfectly fine, like I said before, it wasnt until I took it out and tried to blow through it that I actually realized it was blocked, the matrix internals are laid out something like this below, so you can see that water can easily pass into it and straight back out giving the impression they're not blocked when they are really,m the only way to know for sure is take it out and try the same as I did, blow through it, if you're not getting any decent air flow out of the other pipe, you know its blocked.

Water should flow between the thinner bars to give heat as the blower blows through the fins of the matrix / radiator, however, if these are blocked, and they get very easily blocked, especially if anyone has ever put anything in the system like Radweld to try a fix a leak for instance or the coolant wasnt changed for years on end.
 

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