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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I am new to these forums .Bought this 308 SW 1.6 VTi Sport-Petrol(Automatic) car 3 months ago from local dealer . from day one since brought car back home Depollution system faulty came on with engine management light . called dealer and he said use some redex and drive on motor way for few miles this will solve problem and it did work for 3 days and then back to same problem again. it used to come and go once in week before . every time I used cheap fuel from Tesco etc error Depollution system faulty come starlight way . then I start using better quality petrol 97 premium from BP and Shell problem was gone after filling tank but still used to come back and go once a while . But now recently it has start coming with all petrols and very often . as soon as Depollution system faulty displays fan comes on too . even after turning off engine fan will stay on for 5-8 min .

Took it to local garage and diagnostic code came as P1338 which is Misfire on cylinder 2 . garage guy has changed all spark plugs and swap coils from different cylinder and swapped injectors also . But it still shows same code P1338 and problem remains same . tried changing coolant temp sensor also but no luck then he said it could be faulty ECU so sent ecu for test which came back with no problems at all . Now he is scatting his head but cant find any other solution . Please if experts can help me to sort out this problem with your inputs . Thanks hope to get help from you soon .
 

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have you checked the wiring, what code reader was used
Thanks for reply not sure which wiring needs to be checked and code reader was used by garage man so not sure which one he had but defiantly not peugeot planet . garage is closed for holidays now until 4th jan . so I had car back and driving with same problem everyday . is it safe to drive when ever this error comes car goes into limp mode and loose power and does judging lot . I have also Noticed its giving less MPG comparing to before when problem once less often .I have also checked code with my cheap code reader MaxiScan MS309 which also shows same code as p1338 . Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Photo of faulty part

This is part according to that mechanic needs to be change and causing all this symptoms and misfiring to cylinder .Will cost me between £200 to £300 to replace that .when he cleared these code and turn off engine and turn it on again on 2nd test with planet it only showed p1338 . he said after driving few miles it will show all other code again . He also found little leak in radiator which will cost another £60 . Please if i can get experts advice on this before i go ahead with repair job . Thanks
 

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thats the timing chain tensioner, he thinks this has failed?

btw, this is a ~ £30 part and can be fitted yourself with some patience, i got quotes of around £100 in labour to replace mine. whilst theoretically this could be the culprit as it ensures minimal slack in the chain, i personally think its unlikely. is it on its original timing chain?

if the tensioner has failed completely, i would imagine it has done more damage than is obvious. does it rattle its nuts off?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for your reply . Not sure if this is on original timing chain or it was replaced in past which I doubt it .I have full history papers on me I could not see any thing relating to this . this mechanic was pretending it is hard job on this engine since this part is somewhere in back side engine and will need to take few parts off before changing this . he also said I will have to leave car with him for 2 days . he also found some radiator leak which he said will need to replace also . can radiator leak can caused these kind of problems . Thanks
 

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i did it in about an hour so im not sure if he is telling the truth there. however, the 'correct' way of doing it would be to lock the cams and crank and re-tension it that way, however as mine hadnt failed (it was just weak, hadnt caused any fault codes) i didnt do this, i just changed it carefully. unscrew the old one slowly to release the tension then screw the new one in.

its fairly easy to get to if you take the airbox out (which is 3 screws) and the air hoses. this is for the THP engine which is as far as i am aware is very similar to the standard VTI engine, just mine has the turbo so the basics should be the same.

if it is the original chain then the liklihood is that it will need replacing at some point, if not now then at some point in the near future. the original ones were too soft on the 1st gen engines. there was a crossover year in 2010 i believe where they used the newer designs, but these still exhibit the same issues.

its probably worth trying the new tensioner, would be cheaper than a new chain if it works, but i think it might be the actual chain itself stretching causing the inlet and exhaust cams to be out of sync and the tensioner just cant take up all the slack. get them to check if the chain is stretched.

in terms of the rad, is it a big leak? you could buy a new rad for about £60 so id be interested to see what the 'repair' is.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i did it in about an hour so im not sure if he is telling the truth there. however, the 'correct' way of doing it would be to lock the cams and crank and re-tension it that way, however as mine hadnt failed (it was just weak, hadnt caused any fault codes) i didnt do this, i just changed it carefully. unscrew the old one slowly to release the tension then screw the new one in.

its fairly easy to get to if you take the airbox out (which is 3 screws) and the air hoses. this is for the THP engine which is as far as i am aware is very similar to the standard VTI engine, just mine has the turbo so the basics should be the same.

if it is the original chain then the liklihood is that it will need replacing at some point, if not now then at some point in the near future. the original ones were too soft on the 1st gen engines. there was a crossover year in 2010 i believe where they used the newer designs, but these still exhibit the same issues.

its probably worth trying the new tensioner, would be cheaper than a new chain if it works, but i think it might be the actual chain itself stretching causing the inlet and exhaust cams to be out of sync and the tensioner just cant take up all the slack. get them to check if the chain is stretched.

in terms of the rad, is it a big leak? you could buy a new rad for about £60 so id be interested to see what the 'repair' is.

thanks yes it looks like easy but due not much knowledge and lack of time I rather a mechanic do this if needs to be done . since it will come with warranty if they do in case same problem come again . yes defiantly I will get new rad but can I use any sort of sealer liquid with coolant until i get new rad . thanks again for your help .
 

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that was my initial thought too, but as i couldnt justify the cost i tried it myself with some help, seemed to work but for timing gear i know exactly how you feel. if it was throwing fault codes i would have sent it to a professional for peace of mind.

as a short term fix i dont see any problem with using products such as 'radweld'/radiator seal which has worked for people i know for small leaks.

i would suggest flushing the coolant system when the new rad goes in though, just to make sure theres no material floating around to potentially cause issues, but this isnt 100% necessary as they are designed not to clog the system. shouldnt be difficult to do, and any reputable garage would probably do this as a matter of course anyway seeing as the system will be partially/fully drained.

hope it goes okay for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks I guess I have no other Option than this . Is it same kind if striping required for timing chain replacement if it does I rather have that also replaced to be safe since price for whole kit is around £70-£80. Thanks
 

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Hello

Have you checked or done the oil and filter? Remove the two timing solenoid valves and check the gauzes for filings - could mean a new chain kit with cam shaft gears - the tensioner should be easy enough to check though!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hello

Have you checked or done the oil and filter? Remove the two timing solenoid valves and check the gauzes for filings - could mean a new chain kit with cam shaft gears - the tensioner should be easy enough to check though!

No I have not done that yet since I had car about 3 months ago . According to service book it shows last service was done at 69k miles but after I had car for 15 days check engine oil light came on and found out it was on min level for engine oil . So topped up and thought all other problems were due to this but I was wrong . But it surprise me if the service was done at 69k and when I had check oil light it only did apprx 800 miles . Is that normal to use that amount of oil . Never found any oil leaks ever so far. Thanks
 

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VTI and THP engines do consume a lot of oil due to the PCV design sucking oil vapours through the intake manifold.

anything less than ~1L per 1000 miles is 'normal'. keep it topped up to max if you can, helps the chain and associated timing gear last longer as they are cooled better by the oil.
 

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Few pointers to bring up here on the thread....

The fault codes u have are nothing to do with the timing tensioner.

The inlet camshaft dephasing fault is a part very close to where the timing tensioner is but a different part, this is £76 from Peugeot. Normally that's changed and an oil change done too at same time.

It looks like on your engine you have one on the inlet and one on the exhaust, so you will require two of them.

These tend to go due to lack of oil change and get clogged up badly.

The variable exhaust timing solenoid valve is probably the exhaust camshaft sensor, and combination of all 3 point towards the misfire fault.

As for doing work on the timing in the future, its not worth the risk of doing it without the proper Peugeot tools, even the tensioner I would never do by hand or without locking things into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for that info . shell i wait for check oil light to come every time or just depend on dipstick . Dipsticks are confusing to me on these Peugeot with Pyramid marking . I know bottom pyramid is for min and top one for max but most times i check oil level bottom is full of oil and top one just have small to medium drop oil on it and no oil in middle of these pyramids. Thanks
 

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never let the oil go down low, keep it at the max to ensure it protects the engine as normal but importantly the chain and associated timing parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Few pointers to bring up here on the thread....

The fault codes u have are nothing to do with the timing tensioner.

The inlet camshaft dephasing fault is a part very close to where the timing tensioner is but a different part, this is £76 from Peugeot. Normally that's changed and an oil change done too at same time.

It looks like on your engine you have one on the inlet and one on the exhaust, so you will require two of them.

These tend to go due to lack of oil change and get clogged up badly.

The variable exhaust timing solenoid valve is probably the exhaust camshaft sensor, and combination of all 3 point towards the misfire fault.

As for doing work on the timing in the future, its not worth the risk of doing it without the proper Peugeot tools, even the tensioner I would never do by hand or without locking things into place.

Hi thanks for your input . This mechanic i went to he is believe to be Peugeot specialist and told me he has solved this problem on 20 different cars this year so far . he said it is guaranteed to be this problem . But after your input I am getting worried again . What would you advice at this stage then . thanks
 

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there's a difference between being a "Peugeot specialist" and knowing what he is doing, "Peugeot specialists" tend to just of chosen that group of cars to work on and learn as they go from generic programs that most garages can purchase.

doubled checked your engine there and you do appear to have inlet and exhaust camshaft dephasers.

my advice... (this is what I would do personally if was my car) I would have the codes cleared, the permanent fault will remain till its rectified, then swap the camshaft sensors over, run the car and see if any camshaft sensor faults appear. Then if there is on the inlet side, then its a new sensor to replace the faulty one.

From there would go to checking the camshaft dephasers, you may get away with cleaning them (put up pics of them).
 
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