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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In my 308 I still have the standard CD player. I think it's pretty cool and the display works well

I have a Sony Bluetooth stereo that I. Can fit but I was hoping not to swap the stereo out

The amp on the standard CD player isn't much good for loud music

Is there a way of connection an amp to it as it is?

I have an aux input box but is there a way to make it an output

Many thanks
 

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Most aftermarket amps have a high level input so you could connect your head unit speaker wires into it then feed the speakers off that. I don't like that personally...

Some oem head units can be reprogrammed to provide line level outputs instead of amplified, which is better.

Or, you can strip the head unit and take the line level signals from the circuit.

Converting a line in to a line out just doesn't happen - unless you count stripping out the line signals just to make use of the connector ;)


Are you running the stock speakers in the doors etc? If you're amping you'll want to get rid of those anyway, so it's probably worth doing that first and seeing what you think before going further. Well worth looking at making the mounts more rigid and sorting out sealing them too.

To put it politely, the stock speakers and mounts are crap...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have changed the speakers in the fronts

I have heard in the past you can turn the aux input to an output through Peugeot planet has anyone done this

I have an aux box in the glovebox I can use
 

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I have heard in the past you can turn the aux input to an output through Peugeot planet has anyone done this
The aux inputs go into the signal processor chip, which has software control over whether those inputs are available or not. Basically, you can turn them on or off.

I have never seen a signal processor that has lines that are redefineable to be either in or out... I haven't seen them all so I'm not saying it's impossible, but I personally wouldn't see the appeal anyway.

You can turn the amplifier in software into a line driver to feed an amp instead of speakers, which is what I said above.
 

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I can't see anything by searching about changing it to a line out

Looking online I found this

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/acc...high-to-low-converter#PhotoSwipe1503498331124

Anyone used one ?
Not that particular one, but I've experience of other similar units.

Unless you already have an amp that doesn't support high level inputs then it's pointless.

I have 5 car amplifiers within arm's reach, and they all have high and low level inputs, so that little box is nothing more than a 13 quid duplication.

Attenuating an already amplified signal so that you can amplify it more is just silly to me anyway (especially when your head unit can most likely be configured to give line out on the speaker leads) so I'm biased...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will have a look thanks

Couple of questions

How's best to route 12v cable on a 308 can't find any manuals anywhere?

Remote cable is there a switched live on the original stereo I can use
 

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Routing of the constant live depends on where you locate the amp, I don't think there will be an 'authorised' route so usual rules apply - protect from chafing, fused as close to the battery as possible, etc.

There should be a remote wire - google images helps here, search for your model of stereo, i.e. "Peugeot RD4 wiring". That'll show which speaker wire does what too.
 

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As pdg says, attenuating an amplified signal to feed into an amplifier isn't the best way to 'improve' audio quality. Even an external amp produces better quality from a low level line input than it would from a high level speaker input as the amp has to attenuate then re-amplify the signal.

The least amount of signal processing produces the best output quality. Each stage of processing can deteriorate the signal and any deterioration introduced in the early stages of processing will be made worse with each following process.

You should also consider the quality of the external amplifier. A low cost amplifier claiming very high output levels is likely to be claiming tthe peak output which can only be sustained for a short period of time. They print in very large font claims like 4 x 100 watt channels but in the small print it will state peak value. The true output level would be the RMS (Root Mean Square) value.

The volume of any sound is also a function of the amount of air being moved around by the speaker cone. The bigger the cone and the distance it can move backwards and forwards, the louder the volume. A large low wattage speaker can produce a sound that is louder than a much smaller but higher wattage speaker. The wattage rating of a speaker is not really an indication of the volume it can produce but an indication of the electrical power that can run through the driver coil without causing any damage to the coil.

Cheap amps will also be made using lower quality components that cannot process the analogue signal as cleanly as the top quality and more expensive components. This also intoduces unwanted electrical signal processing noise into the audio which will eventually be amplified along with the wanted audio. Noise reduction circuits may be used but these only work in cheap systems by attenuation which has the side affect of deteriorating the wanted signal.

All top quality domestic amplifiers even those that are as low as a stereo 40w per channel amp will use high quality torroidial transformers to supply a +50 / 0 / -50 volt supply using push/pull amplification within the amplifier chip. The very best will use MOSFETS in a push/pull configuration.

Even digital signal processing in the early stages which can help eliminate early stage signal corruption still need to convert to analogue for the final amplification.
 

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As pdg says, attenuating an amplified signal to feed into an amplifier isn't the best way to 'improve' audio quality.

It'll 'improve' the quantity though, which is what seems to be the aim here.

Personally I'd ditch the head unit amp stage (oddly enough, it's what I'm planning myself - although I'll experiment with switching the amp chip into line driver mode too) and run direct to the external amps - and I may well even go active crossovers too.

But, all that is probably out of scope if all that's required is a bit more volume.
 
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