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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks, I'm stucked in flushing the cooling system. I have disassembly problems (below), and actually I have a strategy for the maintenance of the system, but I'm not sure it's the best way to do it, and I have questions too. Please, help me and share your thoughts.

I bought the car (308 CC 2009 2.0 HDI RHF) a couple of months ago and I didn't know when was the last coolant change - the coolant temperature, the cabin heating etc. was OK, but I saw rust in the coolant, and it did not look good, that's why I decided to drain, clean, flush and refill the system with new fluid.

Draining half of the old coolant (from radiator, coolant tank) was successful, then I added Mannol cooling system cleaner with distilled water and I drove with this "mix" (old coolant + cleaner + distilled water) about 50 kilometres. I did this twice, then I wanted to flush the different modules and pipes, but I'm stucked in that I couldn't reach the heater matrix. I saw videos that I have to take out air filter housing with the tubes above the thermostat, but I didn't see how to take out this tube part which is goes down behind the engine: (see the picture)

90880


So my questions are:
  • How can I reach the heater matrix easily? What parts of engine I have to take out? I did not find video on YouTube, do you have any instructions?
  • When flushing the system, do I have to take out the thermostat?
  • Right now I stopped the progress, took back the parts, filled the system with new fluid and let out air through the bleed valves (one is on upper tube of heater matrix, other is on the thermostat as I know), but cabin heating is not working properly. Did I do something wrong or does it mean I have to replace the heater matrix? (Cabin heating was good before I started the maintenance...)
Hoping & wishing help,
Konrad
 

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You want problems?. You don't need a radiator. If there is rust in the system, it is impossible to fix it.
 

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I don't speak English very well, so I use a translator. Just try to understand me. If previously the cooling system was filled with ordinary water instead of distilled water, corrosion begins in the cylinder block. It is impossible to eliminate corrosion by any means. It's not really a disaster. If you cleared the system - fine. Buy quality antifreeze, and use your car without fear. You don't need to replace the radiators. The color of rust will always haunt you, but it's not so scary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't speak English very well, so I use a translator. Just try to understand me. If previously the cooling system was filled with ordinary water instead of distilled water, corrosion begins in the cylinder block. It is impossible to eliminate corrosion by any means. It's not really a disaster. If you flushed the system, fine. Buy high-quality antifreeze, and use your car without fear. You don't need to replace the radiators. The color of rust will always haunt you, but it's not so scary.
Thank you, I understand you completely. And I would like to flush the system, but as I said in the original post, I cannot reach the in-out pipes of the heater, behind the engine.
 

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Do you want to remove the radiator of the heater? Or are you saying that it doesn't conduct heat well? I can't understand the reason for your fuss
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Do you want to remove the radiator of the heater? Or are you saying that it doesn't conduct heat well? I can't understand the reason for your fuss
Before I drained the coolant from the system, the cabin heater worked fine, but after I drained and refilled the system with new coolant, it did not heat well. Because of it, I wanted to flush the system, but I did not find the way to do it, like this:
I can’t take out the parts which I signed on the picture in the original post - these parts are right to the engine, next to the air filter house and maybe they are part of the air system?
 

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2009 308cc 2.0 HDI 16V 140bhp RHF
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Sounds like an air lock in the systems. Make sure the heater is turned up on full heat take the expansion tank cap off and let the vehicle run for about half hour hopefully this should help shift your air lock. Give it a few good revs as well once warm. Failing that put expansion tank cap back on and drive for 20 mins then very very very carefully and slowly release the pressure in expansion tank be careful it maybe liable to spray coolant everywhere and possibly burn you. So please be careful and slowly let the pressure out like opening a bottle of coke that someone has shaken the nuts out of.
 
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