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Hi I have a 308 58 plate that has developed the common timing chain problem with these engines, so before I spend money on the repair, was wondering if anyone could give me any advice?

If I left the current timing chain as it is, would it eventually fail completely? And is there any damage being done to the engine with the faulty chain?

I get intermittent EML light sometimes it will be on for a few days then it will go off for two weeks. It's also thirsty for oil.

Other than the odd stall, usually when stopping (revs just die out no stutter or nothing) it runs ok.

Thanks.
 

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Hi I have a 308 58 plate that has developed the common timing chain problem with these engines, so before I spend money on the repair, was wondering if anyone could give me any advice?

If I left the current timing chain as it is, would it eventually fail completely? And is there any damage being done to the engine with the faulty chain?

I get intermittent EML light sometimes it will be on for a few days then it will go off for two weeks. It's also thirsty for oil.

Other than the odd stall, usually when stopping (revs just die out no stutter or nothing) it runs ok.

Thanks.
I have a 1.6 2008 VTi Petrol, first of all I have to ask you......what common timing chain problem ?

Realistically, the timing chain, unless you've been really unlucky, should never need changing or at least until approx 200K miles, mine however currently has 85K miles on it, and in the service manual had the timing chain changed at 65K miles, which I find very very strange as to why it needed a chain at such low mileage, however, the previous owner was very dishonest and the car had many small underlying faults with it, so im not sure if he's just written in himself (timing chain and sprockets changed) at the service interval stamp in the book.

Enough of that anyway, two of the faults which quickly showed themselves is I was loosing or burning oil, and also the same as you, car just used to just cut out randomly without warning, not stall or anything like that, just simply die, there wasnt a problem re-starting it, but it just died, are you loosing oil or burning it, that would be my first concern ?

The oil problem turned out to be the lower oil filter housing seal, its a pain to change and took me 2 hours, apparently a common fault on petrol 308's, you need to remove the bottom plastic engine cover, the exhaust manifold and the cat to get to 2 of the 4 bolts holding it on as some clever idiot decided to put 2 of the bolts mounting the housing behind the back exhaust heat shield, and wish I had of known in advance, but also drain your coolant, strange I know, I wasnt expecting that, but I lost about half a litre of oil when I removed the housing, and pretty much all of my coolant as this also passes through the housing on another channel built into the housing.

The cutting out problem for me turned out to be a top sensor, not the cam sensors though, I forget the name of them though, theres 2, one at the front of the engine and one at the back, removing them and cleaning them along with a good engine flush and oil and filter change fixed that problem, its not happened again since.

The sensor responsible for the cutting out is in the picture highlighted in red below, I forget what they are called though, sorry, theres 2 of them though, 1 at the front of the engine and one at the back.
 

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Hi thanks for the replies, yes I have googled the issue it is common on this engine however just wondering if anyone has got away with just leaving it as it is.

Seanie - mine has only done 59k and it is showing up so 65k for yours seems about right and judging by what others have experienced online. Apparently it happened so much they either abandoned this engine or updated it to a belt design later on.

I probably will just get it sorted as it's a nice car with low mileage but it's a rather expensive fix.
 

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Seanie forgot to say as well it's not burning oil i.e no smell or blue smoke or anything apparently it is normal to use more oil when the chain is worn.

There's no oil on the floor when parked or anything so no idea where the oil is going but the oil light comes on about every 900-1000 miles and I check it and top it up.
 

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The timing chain issue is supposed to have been addressed on later engines, I understand the issue on earlier engines was due to stretching of the chain as it was too narrow for the job but revised parts are now fitted. I hope so anyway as I have a 1.6 THP myself!
 

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The timing chain issue is supposed to have been addressed on later engines, I understand the issue on earlier engines was due to stretching of the chain as it was too narrow for the job but revised parts are now fitted. I hope so anyway as I have a 1.6 THP myself!
Mine is the 1.6 16v VTi EP6 engine, 120BHP 88kw, is it the same problems.
 

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I believe the problem was worse on the THP turbo version although it still occurred on the VTi as far as I know but to a lesser extent.
 

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I believe the problem was worse on the THP turbo version although it still occurred on the VTi as far as I know but to a lesser extent.
Sorry, dont mean to hijack this thread, but mine sounds a rattly first thing in the morning when I first start it up, sounds a bit like a diesel, but quite quickly quietens down, it doesnt seem to use or burn any oil any more since changing that oil filter housing seal, and I put some top quality oil in it, Magnatec Easy Stop Start 5w-30, ive read cheap oil just makes things worse, I just figured the noise was whilst the chain was dry at the top and circulating the oil / lubrication first thing, give it a min or 2 and it quietens down.
 

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Sorry, dont mean to hijack this thread, but mine sounds a rattly first thing in the morning when I first start it up, sounds a bit like a diesel, but quite quickly quietens down, it doesnt seem to use or burn any oil any more since changing that oil filter housing seal, and I put some top quality oil in it, Magnatec Easy Stop Start 5w-30, ive read cheap oil just makes things worse, I just figured the noise was whilst the chain was dry at the top and circulating the oil / lubrication first thing, give it a min or 2 and it quietens down.
Mine is rattling constantly even when fully warmed up. To be honest not much difference to the sound of a diesel and certainly nothing that annoys me personally, but I can't help thinking that it's not doing the engine any good by continuing to drive it.

Think I'll just bite the bullet ...
 

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They are really not that expensive and not that difficult to change either if you're handy with a spanner or 2, just a bit time consuming, you'll just need to make sure you get the correct cam and crank locking tool, you can pick them up off eBay for about £25 then sell it on when you're finished with it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timing-Setting-Camshaft-Locking-Tools-for-Citroen-C4-Peugeot-207-BMW-MINI-COPPER/173733037368?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Generally a mechanic will charge in excess of £600+ for the job, you can get the tool and parts for £100 fai, ins or febi, a decent brand, I use a company in Germany called buy car parts, always get the parts in 3 to 5 days, just in time for the weekend which is the only spare time I'd have for doing a big job like that.

This is for my car, may not be the same for yours: https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/fai-autoparts/7814783

There's plenty of guides on YouTube on how to do it.
 
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