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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

A family member of me have a Peugeot 308 -08, with an 1.6 litre petrol engine under the hood which needs some TLC to get back to its glory days. It was bougth for approx 6 months ago and the current owner had it Mot-ed a few months ago. She got an advisory for a minor oil leak from the engine which needs to be fixed as the car makes a quite mess in its parking lot now. I have removed the engine undercover and it seems to me that the leak comes from the upper part of the engine on its backside on the timing chain side. I was in contact with the garage which did the last service on this car in an attempt to reveal some of its service history. They told me that the car was diagnosed with an oil leak from the head gasket during the last service but the customer did not want to have it repaired. The diagnozis seems to be quite rigth. The owner shall take action to the previous owner and used car dealer regarding this issue, but that will be a separate story... It seems that I have to jump into the HG change on this car anyway. So. I have done about 10 head gaskets on other makes during the years, so I guess I should be up to the job after some studying and research for this specific engine. Then I have the questions.... Have you guys any important advice for this job? Can the timing chain be removed and put back in place without the cam locking tools? Is there any improvements done to the HG after the initial design? What other gaskets should be replaced during the job? Seems to me that it should be a good idea to replace the timing chain with its guides and tensioner as I have read several placed that this one has issues. Any other known faults/issues with this engine type?

All advice will be greatly appreciated :)
 

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For what it is worth,I have a 308 with the same 1.6 vti engine but have yet to do a head gasket change or renew the timing chain.But it is a well known fact that neither of the tasks you mentioned should never be attempted without the correct camshaft locking tools.Having looked into the job in case I ever need to it I found that the Haynes manual on this model gives you a very good step by step guide on how to do the job.
Yes there seems to be a well documented problem that some have experienced with the timing chain,but it seems a lot of the problems may well have been avoided if the engine has a regular oil and filter changes using the correct grade and good quality oil and filter,by regular I am saying every 5/to 6000 miles.
If I were doing the job I would certainly renew the chain,guides,and tensioner,plus have a good check of the camshaft sprockets.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Hi,

Job done yesterday. It was a time consuming task, but pretty doable for the experienced DIY mechanics. I did not have the special locking tools available, but made a locking pin for the crankshaft in a lathe similar to the "real" one. The cams was properly marked before disassembly and everything lined up perfectly on reassembly. Cam chain, guides and tensioner was replaced on reassembly. The old guides looked worn to me, but I have to admit that I don`t know how worn ones looks. They had deep grooves from the chain. The engine sounds better upon startup now than earlier so I am happy with the result so far. On removal, I found the old tensioner completely loose. It could be unscrewed by hand!! I think the oil leakage must have come from this one. I thought of only replace the tensioner and put all back together, but I had came so far in the operation that I did the gasket anyway to be sure everything is fine.

A few pics:

Head of tensioner (hex) seen on the back side of the cylinder head. Probably the main cause of the oil leak as it was loose and could be unscrewed by hand only.


Block deck prepared for re-assembly:


Cylinder head prepared for re-assembly:


New Elring gasket in place:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
New chain + guides:


Old chain + guides:


Wear marks in old guides:


Everything timed and tightened up, ready for putting all the other bits back in place:
 

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Well done,glad it's gone well for you.Great pics and info,always nice to hear and see the final bit of the jig saw.Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Hi,

Thanks for the replies :)

I am not to happy at the moment. The car is not behaving like it should. There is some rattling from the top cover/chain around 1600-2000 rpm`s and the car does not pull as well as it should uphill. It makes me think that something is still not 100%. I think the first thing to check would be the cam timing and the pulleys/dephrasers.

Anybody knows how to check reset the dephrasers?
Does the ECU needs a reset/recalibration after an operation like this? How to?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated :)

Update:

I was able to borrow the cam locking tools from the local garage this weekend. Will check things up then. Hopefully it is the timing that is slight out for any reason.
 

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Hi,

Thanks for the replies :)

I am not to happy at the moment. The car is not behaving like it should. There is some rattling from the top cover/chain around 1600-2000 rpm`s and the car does not pull as well as it should uphill. It makes me think that something is still not 100%. I think the first thing to check would be the cam timing and the pulleys/dephrasers.

Anybody knows how to check reset the dephrasers?
Does the ECU needs a reset/recalibration after an operation like this? How to?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated :)

Update:

I was able to borrow the cam locking tools from the local garage this weekend. Will check things up then. Hopefully it is the timing that is slight out for any reason.
Yes,getting the cam locking tools is a good idea,and may sort your problem as the locking tools are vital for the timing set up on the VTI engine.
 

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U time it up before without the locking tools? Or an eBay special or something ?

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Still not happy...

I used the locking tools to reset the cam timing anf it was sligth out. It performs better on test drive but the rattle between 1500-2000 RPMS under load are there still. OVer 2000rpms it pulls like a train.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I had a quick chat with a technician at the local dealer today and also had him listen to the valve cover when revving the engine. He told me that they use to replace the sprockets/dephasers every time they do this job and recommend me to do the same. I see they are pretty costly around here. Does anyone know where these can be supplied to a better price and what their part no`s are?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cam pulleys/dephasers replaced. Oil flush + new filter and oil done. No joy, issue is still there!

Starts thinking the issue is related to the variable valve lift system as the rattle is only present at a certain rpm/load range. Does the valve motor need to be recalibrated after installation?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
As a last try, I removed the new tensioner and fitted the old one back in. And guess what, the issue is now solved and the engine runs sweet again!!

So much hassle just for a new part that may be defective or not fit!!

So, the conclusion has to be to keep away from a FAI timing chain kit!

I am so very happy to not have that pug in my driveway any longer!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi all,

I had a quick check on this car yesterday. Everything seems to be in perfect order. No oil or coolant leak seen and everything seems dry and nice. Fluid levels are stable. According to the owner, the car has never been running smoother and stronger than now as long as she have had it. No engine noise under startup, gearchanges are quick and smooth and fuel consumption has been reduced from around 9l/100km to 7-8l/100km. No need to say that the job seems to be a great success! With other words, a worn timing gear system does affect the performance on these engines a lot.
 
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