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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Where to start, new here so hi
Appreciate all advice and tips as I'm pretty handy but not qualified.

Have a 2003 307sw 1.6 Petrol

Abs Fault:
Crunching/ grinding noise from front left of vehicle but have just discovered the post about the corroded wires so will try have a look when I can.
(I can see one of the wires has been spliced in the engine bay fuse box so I read its an indicator the 307 abs recall has been carried out)

Airbag Fault:
Main airbag fault always on,
I have a donor 307 (as i break cars for parts)
I suspected com 2000 and went to change it and this is where shit hits the fan.

Who ever had it off before me didn't have a torx bit and can see a hammer and chisel has been used to beat the life out of the screw to get it off. Anyway got the screw off sacrificing a torx being hammered into it but just to add insult they used a lot of glue/ thread lock when they used the hammer and chisel to put it back on and it has over flowed over the steering wheel splines and now cannot remove wheel for love nor money.

I have tried "not being gentle" and pulling the hell out of it and even tried one of the small handheld gas blow torches to apply heat to try melt glue but still won't budge.

I will post pictures of my progress along my journey maybe someone else might be able to laugh at it.

I had the car put onto the generic autocom diagnostic but no stored or showing codes came up so I presume only the PP will do it and have the chinese copy of it on the way should be here in a couple of weeks but in the mean time want to sort out the glued wheel.

As said I have a doner standard 307 so presume steering wheel is the same so will cut off mine and replace it with donor one once spline cleaned up.
 

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Who would use so much thread lock? and why?

Anyways, ABS + crunching from the front left wheel sounds like wheel bearing as they also contain the ABS ring but you'd need to hook up PP to be sure.

Again with the air back I'd say try PP first as it could be any of the following components: Comm, drivers, passengers, seats x2, curtains x2 and i'm sure there's something in the sill area too.

It's a shot in the dark without PP.
 
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Just a quick tip, please put the screw for the steering wheel back in a couple of turns, this way when you finally manage to tug it off ( snigger ) you won't get a smack in the face.......

Have you tried to get something like a feeler gauge to force in and separate the glue from the splines?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No haven't use a feeler guage and to be honest not even sure what it is, I was going to purchase a gear puller and given it a go but sure have a spare steering wheel from a normal 307 (mine is the sw) so will just be quicker to use a reciprocating saw and cut the wheel off and replace.

The comm unit might not even be the airbag fault but I just couldn't leave it as it is incase we ever sold it on as we were already screwed over buying it (clocked for 60k)

Have 2 weeks to burn anyway before PP arrives for the diagnostic so might aswell get it done.
 

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Abs fault

I know this is of no help to you but I also have an abs fault coupled with the crunching/grinding noise from front left. I had the front discs and pads changed thinking that would cure the problem but, alas, no. So for me I found your post helpful as to what the probable cause is so will get that looked at. Thanks and hope you resolve the problem with the steering wheel.
 

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Where to start, new here so hi
Appreciate all advice and tips as I'm pretty handy but not qualified.

Have a 2003 307sw 1.6 Petrol

Abs Fault:
Crunching/ grinding noise from front left of vehicle but have just discovered the post about the corroded wires so will try have a look when I can.
(I can see one of the wires has been spliced in the engine bay fuse box so I read its an indicator the 307 abs recall has been carried out)

Airbag Fault:
Main airbag fault always on,
I have a donor 307 (as i break cars for parts)
I suspected com 2000 and went to change it and this is where shit hits the fan.

Who ever had it off before me didn't have a torx bit and can see a hammer and chisel has been used to beat the life out of the screw to get it off. Anyway got the screw off sacrificing a torx being hammered into it but just to add insult they used a lot of glue/ thread lock when they used the hammer and chisel to put it back on and it has over flowed over the steering wheel splines and now cannot remove wheel for love nor money.

I have tried "not being gentle" and pulling the hell out of it and even tried one of the small handheld gas blow torches to apply heat to try melt glue but still won't budge.

I will post pictures of my progress along my journey maybe someone else might be able to laugh at it.

I had the car put onto the generic autocom diagnostic but no stored or showing codes came up so I presume only the PP will do it and have the chinese copy of it on the way should be here in a couple of weeks but in the mean time want to sort out the glued wheel.

As said I have a doner standard 307 so presume steering wheel is the same so will cut off mine and replace it with donor one once spline cleaned up.
to remove the steering wheel put the bolt back in all the way and then loosen no more than 2 turns, get a lump hammer and wack the bolt as hard as you can and then loosen bolt and try pull steering wheel
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Been there done that m8, hammered it even had another fella pulling it has as he could as I hammer it with nut in place which leads me to think seen they used so much glue maybe they actually put some on the pline when replacing the wheel so only option is to cut it off
 

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Been there done that m8, hammered it even had another fella pulling it has as he could as I hammer it with nut in place which leads me to think seen they used so much glue maybe they actually put some on the pline when replacing the wheel so only option is to cut it off
good look, i have never had one that has completely been un-removable but there is always a first
 
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