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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
HI, hoping someone can give some help here, had an ongoing problem with my 2.0 HDI for several months and have tried several fixes, but still have problem.

It has been mentioned on here in several other postings, but I not sure what to try next,

The Turbo seems to be intermittent, about 30% of the time I get full turbo power, and can accelerate well, but the rest of the time the acceleration is dead, it has come to the point where i cannot attempt to even overtake a tractor, as if the turbo decides not to work i cannot pull past!

There seems to be no link as to when it will work or not.

First i tried it with and without the MAF connected, made no difference

Next i unplugged the EGR valve, no change

Looked down for the solenoid valves, and there were scuffs on back of rad looking like someone had swapped them before, did a swap of the Turbo wastegate solenoid & EGR solenoid, no turbo at all, so looks like one was definately duff, got 2 from a scapper on ebay & changed both

Still the same, sometimes boost, others none,

Removed pipe feeding wastegate, it is in the usual default fully open, and has been lubricated to make sure it can freely close, now, somwtimes on idle it will vac closed, others it stays open, i am guessing, that when it stays open there is no pressure built up for the turbo?, when it closes and the revs hit around 1700 then it 'pops' open again, and will re-close when revs drop, but when it wont shut, well, it wont shut

So, what is it that controls the solenoid? or where is the pump that provides the vac to the solenoids, is this pump usually continually vaccing, or is it controlled by something else?

Any further pointers greatfully taken!

Thanks

Forgot to add, around 18 months ago I had the DPF drilled, & additive system removed/re-programmed

No fault light shown ever since
 

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Try a squirt of oil into vac pump. (disconnect servo pipe and add a few drops of oil into pump connector) you could also try a squirt of silicone spray into pump as well. Had a similar problem on a friends 307 took us weeks of swapping parts etc and then tried oil in pump from a internet link and it fixed the problem.

It appears that a sticking non-return valve in vacuum pump can cause low system vacuum below about 3000 rpm but not trip MIL however you get little or no boost and then at about 3K the turbo kicks in, also often only appears once car is hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the tip, is the vac pump easy to access? have not traced the pipe back from solenoid yet, but think i remember it going downwards to the bottom right of engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info, only just had time today to take another look

Ok, so, found the vac pump, i dont have access to anything to test the vac coming from it, roughly how strong shold it feel on a finger?
Felt a build up of vacuum over a few seconds, not overly strong, but could feel it, dropped some oil in and re-connected

Still not shutting wastegate on tick-over (should it?)

When i took off the two pipes (vac & out) from the solenoid, and just held them to each other there was enough vac to pull the wastegate shut

Put meter on solenoid plug, reads a constant 12v, does anyone know if the 12v supply is meant to open the vac to the wastegate to close it and then drop to allow it to open?

Anyway, after playing around i put the pipes back onto solenoid, and as soon as i put the plug back in aswell the wastegate shut, tried it several times, around 1500 revs it pops open, then re-closes on tickover, as i would expect

However, as soon as engine is turned off, then back on again, it remains open, should it close as soon as engine starts?

Starting to grow in frustration with this set up now, more annoying that it is an intermittant fault, so any guidance appreciated

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #7
HI, it is the 110 model, could not get to the egr itself, but did leave the controling solenoid unplugged
 
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