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Discussion Starter #21
The top cams are about where they should be but I cannot check against the crankshaft position. The belt is good so I don't want to take that off as just want trying to clarify it's all lining up .

As the cams are aligned with their respective homes and the pin (drillbit) can lock the flywheel is that it? I think I read.that the notch on the crank should be about 8oclock which it is.

Ah give me a fuse board any day of the week!

Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #22
On reliable guide he mentions removing the lower pulley to expose a flange with a half moon cut out for the 8mm bolt.

Mine doesn't have this, just the crank sprocket?? Am I being stupid?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Okay, so the timing is fine! What else do you guys think could be causing this?

When I had it hooked up all that was coming up under p1336 was crankshaft sensor so I replaced this.
Nothing about coil packs.

Is there any way to verify the coil pack?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Was okay for a minute until the cat fault popped up on the display then started misfiring and losing power (limp mode)

Turned it on and off again and was very juddery .

Haven't checked spark plugs yet but seems as if it's more of a signal problem. Or when the car gets up to temp.

Thanks for the advice, will get a quote. Do you think it's worth changing cam sensor as I've replaced crank sensor but nothing points to that in the fault codes just other people's experiences.
 

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After a minute the car would not have warmed up enough. If it goes in limp mode it does not lose power per se it is restricted to a certain rev limit. In that limit it should run ok. If it did then the coils and plugs show they are ok. Changing the cam sensor is a reasonably low cost try I would say but whether it fixes it is another thing. Make sure you inspect both sensor cables for deterioration/damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The crank and cam sensors look the same, I will inspect the cables thoroughly but do you think I could put back in the old crank sensor and put the new crank sensor in the camshaft sensors place?
 

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Both sensors are different the rough running is causing the cat related faults it actually started missfiring BEFORE the fault popped up the ecu seen it before you felt it thats why the cat fault comes on the display people always thing the fault display is first but the fault is first check plugs and coil pack
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Plugs are okay.
Tested the coil pack off the car, cant can anything other than 0 ohms on any combination of terminals??

Tester is functioning properly. What's the chances of getting a short on both windings. Haven't got a spare spark plug to put in the end of the coil pack to look for spark and cant go pick one up.
 

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Coils are 2 pairs on these I'm sure so 1 and 4 fire together then 2 and 3 fire together but sometimes the drivers in the ecu go faulty easiest test is another coil planet/diagbox can trigger the coils in situ to test
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Another fault popped up p0445 something about evap.
So I cleared the faults.
Plugs okay
Coil pack seems to be okay despite not testing out with multimeter.
Cleared faults
Stuck on a different battery
Seems to be driving with no faults!?
Limited on how far I can take it but this is the longest it's gone without them popping up.

One thing I quickly noticed, the speedo stays at 70mph and apparently I've got a full tank of petrol! Now I need to find out why?
 

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You might have got damp in the fuse blocks/BSI. Worth checking. Glad the engine is running though. Check the outlet of the Alternator while it is running just in case it has been the cause of the battery fail.
 
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