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Discussion Starter #1
The 307 wouldn't start today; usual beeping.

Battery measured 11.1V.

Had the charger on it for an hour and now it measured 12.3V and started.

With the engine running it measures 14V.

After stopping it measured 12.0V.

Any ideas?
 

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The 307 wouldn't start today; usual beeping.

Battery measured 11.1V.

Had the charger on it for an hour and now it measured 12.3V and started.

With the engine running it measures 14V.

After stopping it measured 12.0V.

Any ideas?
Keep charging it.

11.1 is effectively empty, 12.3 (after a couple of hours 'rest' is about 50% charged. Bit it sounds like you measured soon after disconnecting the charger, and it will fall down to a 'at rest' level that is lower.

14V when running - you don't say at what revs though. Running 1500-2000 rpm and above I'd prefer to see 14.4V

12.0 at 'rest' is only about 25% charged

A fully loaded lead acid battery, at rest, should read 12.6-12.7 depending on specific plate materials
 

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How old is the battery ?

An average battery will last around 5 or 6 years if cared for correctly but several factors can and do decrease the usefull life of any battery.

It could be as simple as the battery has reached the end of it's usefull life and need replacing.
 

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That rules out the aging battery theory then.

There was a tech bulletin out a long time ago mentioning incorrect fitting of the battery leads. If they aren't fully pushed down on the posts the rings don't clamp tightly and can cause lot's of issues. I had some electrical issues on my first 307 which was down to the negative lead not being correctly fitted. Many posts on the forum refer to poor earth connections - specifically the connection to the gearbox and to the chassis below the battery box causing poor / no start and other problems. I'd start with checking the battery leads and earth connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After charging on Wednesday it measures 12.8. This morning it measures 11.8.

So must something be draining it? How can I work out what?
 

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After charging on Wednesday it measures 12.8. This morning it measures 11.8.

So must something be draining it? How can I work out what?
You have to connect an ammeter between one of the battery posts and the lead (which you have previously removed from the post). You can now read the current drain. You can expect a small value, but a substantial value indicates a fault. Now you have to remove fuses one-by-one, until the value drops. Then you know that the circuit fed by the last fuse you removed is the one at fault. Replace the fuse, and disconnect, in turn, each item fed by it, until the value drops. Now you know which item is at fault. If the value does not drop when all the items have been removed, the wiring between the fuse and the items is at fault, and you have to start disconnecting the branches (if there are any suitable connectors). If not, inspect the wiring for visual signs of chafing or damage.....
 

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Try charging the battery fully then leave it overnight without connecting it to the car. If the level drops then you've got a faulty battery so take it back and get it replaced. You could spend weeks looking for a fault that may not exist.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
These are the pictures that Halfords took for the warranty company.

Halfords won't touch it and say it must go to an auto electrician.

Looks like the aftermarket stereo and front parking sensors were a bodge :mad:

Warranty company say they won't pay for it. :mad::mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Aftermarket radio disconnected. Problem remains.

Glovebox fuse F8 ("Multifunction display supply, audio equipment, audio/telephone, alarm siren, alarm control unit, 12V rear socket, trailer fuse box.") pulled. Problem persists and now the fucking roof won't go down. Massive bollocking from SWMBO. Want to kill myself.
 

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Just picking up from what Storeman said about the leads and clips. Give the terminals a good clean, give the connectors a good clean and give the terminals a good dollop of vaseline.

If there's any arcing on the terminals, then it could contribute to the discharge.

Try borrow another battery - if nothing changes, it's not the battery at fault.

Check the earths, and if possible get someone to help and disconnect the fuses for the non-essential bits and pieces whilst checking the stats on the battery.

If the parking sensors are an aftermarket addition, can you disconnect them without disconnecting the fuse?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Turns out I'd pulled F40 for the roof mistakenly instead of F36 for Hi-Fi amplifier and then put it back in the wrong place :mad:

Not a catastrophic mistake, resolved by checking my working, not sure a massive bollocking was appropriate.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Electrician has had it all day today and could not detect any current being drawn.

So sill no wiser.

I measure voltage at roughly 12 hour intervals by unlocking the car, opening the bonnet, and measuring across the battery terminals.

I see it drop by about 0.3V evey 12 hours.

After being used it normally measures 12.8V, so over 6 days that gets low enough for a non-start.

Surely this can't be normal?

The electrician suggested that I'm skewing the results by unlocking the car, which wakes the BSI, and that I should disconnect the bonnet switch and leave the bonnet unlocked so that I can measure without waking the BSI.
 

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Clutching at straws, but if the electrician made his measurements with the bonnet open (likely), perhaps the bonnet switch (when the bonnet is closed) is the source of the drain?

Reasoning: If the bonnet switch wakes the BSI, the switch must always be in circuit.

Another possibility - the alarm system (when set) is the cause of the drain. So measurements need to be made when the car is locked.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Clutching at straws, but if the electrician made his measurements with the bonnet open (likely), perhaps the bonnet switch (when the bonnet is closed) is the source of the drain?

Reasoning: If the bonnet switch wakes the BSI, the switch must always be in circuit.

Another possibility - the alarm system (when set) is the cause of the drain. So measurements need to be made when the car is locked.
Still no progress.

After market parking sensors and radio now unplugged, so can we deduce that it's something that's preventing the BSI from sleeping?

Been out and measured the voltage at each of the engine bay fuses. I weighted down the bonnet switch, locked the car, and left if for 25 minutes and then measured
(y means battery voltage (currently 11.6), Y means battery voltage at big fuse, n/N for zero, number for voltage):
YYnnnnNyyyny
Y
N

Then I unlocked it and measured again:
Y(1.6)nnnnN898n9
Y
N

The fuse box doesn't match the diagram in the handbook, but if the numbers are the same then:
*1: Fan
*2: Horn
3: Front wash wipe
4: Headlight wash
*5: Fuel pump
*6: autobox (the car is manual)
*7: ABS/ESP, power steering
8: ignition switch
*9: engine coolant level switch
10: engine management actuators
11: air conditioning blower
12: windscreen wipers
*13: BSI
14: air pump
 

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