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Discussion Starter #1
Hello people (I'm a new member :) )
After a recent MOT failure I've embarked on replacing both rear discs, one Caliper and new pads. My problem is that; given that time and corrosion has seized the Caliper mount bolts, it's likely necessary to grind the old ones off (Don't have Gas).
It's been a bit of a nightmare since I started, a little like a Horror film where you get a shock, it's OK for a while then you get another shock. Needless to say at every turn I've had to buy something new as I just don't have the specific tool in my 'Chest' :mad:
Before I grind off the rusted Torx bolts that hold on the Caliper mount, can anyone advise where I might obtain a replacement set for both sides (Apart from the usual Pug dealer that is):D

Any help on this greatly appreciated, I have until 01/08/14 to have the car back for the free retest, and so far it's just this that's holding me back (Apart from waiting for Sockets to be delivered that I don't have).

Cheers in advance!! :thumb:
 

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DON'T!!!!!!!!!


Never come across a caliper bolt thats seized, just effing tight.

WD40 or Plusgas if its stubborn, good fitting socket and away you go.
If its a hex head bolt I prefer to used a flat sided socket rather than a star fitting.
As for the torq fitting ones, iirc they are not that tight at all as they are not subject to high force in motion.

Just take your time and they will come out.


Brake parts - I've found for the bits you cant get at eurocarparts or the local unipart, BiggRed are usually quite good.
 

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i had the same problem with my front ones with torx bolts. they were bloody tight. i snapped half a dozen good quailty bits trying to get them undone. in the end i took it to my mate and he managed to get them undone using a snap on half inch drive torx bit on a very long bar they were mighty tight. dont think they had ever been off as had locknut on them. they went back together with a good dose of copperslip on them
 

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As ash1293 says - plenty of Plusgas or WD40 and leave it to soak in. Invest in a blowlamp and heat up around where the bolt screws in. A good fitting torx bit, preferably one which can be used with a socket set and a decent length bar or ratchet should see them come out. Mine had threadlocker on so were pretty hard to shift until I persuaded it with the blowlamp.
 

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Agree with storeman above I also give the head of the bolt a sharp tap with hammer before trying to undo this can jar the threads and break the rust seal around the outer ring. I use Tunap 103 as a penetrating oil I read about it in a car mag and have found its the mutts nuts (got mine on ebay not cheap but you do not need to use much)
 

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just remember to copper grease the bolts after to save the issue again
Should never use copper grease on caliper mounting bolts they are safety critical.

The recommendation is to replace them if removed (due to thread locking compound) you can reuse if you put thread lock on them to ensure they do not loosen from heating/cooling of brakes or possible under torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As ash1293 says - plenty of Plusgas or WD40 and leave it to soak in. Invest in a blowlamp and heat up around where the bolt screws in. A good fitting torx bit, preferably one which can be used with a socket set and a decent length bar or ratchet should see them come out. Mine had threadlocker on so were pretty hard to shift until I persuaded it with the blowlamp.
I have a blowlamp, one of those for plumbing, would that be of any benefit or is there something other that would be of benefit?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
DON'T!!!!!!!!!


Never come across a caliper bolt thats seized, just effing tight.

WD40 or Plusgas if its stubborn, good fitting socket and away you go.
If its a hex head bolt I prefer to used a flat sided socket rather than a star fitting.
As for the torq fitting ones, iirc they are not that tight at all as they are not subject to high force in motion.

Just take your time and they will come out.


Brake parts - I've found for the bits you cant get at eurocarparts or the local unipart, BiggRed are usually quite good.
Thanks Ash, I thought the best way was to grind them off to save a lot of hassle, I've bought decent Torx bits and they're that worn (Bolts) that they grind anyway. Plus there isn't much room to get tools behind it (Without removing the Damper unit).
 

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Bolts have a dead fine thread, they are possible to get but make sure you get high tensile, Especially on the front. Think the standard bolts are 10.9 grade.

Take one of them to a fasteners company and they'll have something more than likely something with a 19mm hex head (what mine were when I replaced them) or a cap head.

I replaced mine and the grade of the bolt I went for was GR 12.9 which is one if they higher grades. When the torque spec on the front caliper bolts is 105nm on a fairly small bolt then it's better to have a spec of bolt that is going to stand the test of time.
Normal 8.8 grade would more than likely do it but as it's brakes it's best not to go cheap. Makes sense to go hexagon aswell just to make things a little easier
 

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Should never use copper grease on caliper mounting bolts they are safety critical.

The recommendation is to replace them if removed (due to thread locking compound) you can reuse if you put thread lock on them to ensure they do not loosen from heating/cooling of brakes or possible under torque.
never on the caliper bolts but the mounting bolts arent an issue with there high torque. especially with those shitty torque bolts. it saves them seizing up for the next time. there still mega tight though lol
 

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I have a blowlamp, one of those for plumbing, would that be of any benefit or is there something other that would be of benefit?
That's the kind of blowlamp I use so I'd say it was good to go. If the heads of the bolts are badly worn have you tried using the next size torx bit up and persuading it into the bolt head with a hammer ?
 

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Hi, all. The only place I was able to find these torx bolts online was from eurocarcare (search for ecc9678008680). There doesn't appear to be anywhere else, or am I looking in the wrong place?
 

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As mentioned a few times make sure you use heat, I was changing my timing belt recently, I managed to crack the main pully bolt using the jammed starter motor method. It came out a couple of turns then it stuck fast, neither the starter motor or my rattle gun could shift it. I put an electric heat gun on it and got it nice and warm, then my rattle gun undid like it was a new bolt.
 
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