Peugeot Forums banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 307 sw 1.6 hdi that started to cut out & then wouldnt start. Diagnosed as u/s tank sender which was changed. Now car will turn over & fire for a few seconds & then cut out. If I hold it at 2000 rpm or above it will run, as soon as I take my foot off it cuts out. Code was p0088, code now reads p1166 real time graph shows pressure exceed max. I have renewed the fuel filter, fuel pressure sensor & fuel pressure regulator, same problem, same reading. I suspect pressure sensor wiring/signal but I'm poor at the electrical stuff. Could it be a duff new sensor? Any help appreciated, cant move it to get it on a Peugeot diagnostic. What sould the voltage readings be on the pressure sensor? ta.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
You say tank sender was faulty in what way was it faulty as these dont have tank pumps have you fitted a tank pump ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
Ok many people make the mistake of seeing power wires and assume wrongly it has a pump

You really need live data readings with these codes just tell you what has happened but it could be an injector issue as well blockage in return side another possibility
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I have a live data reader. What am I looking for? The return to the tank is fine I checked it, what do I look for re the injectors?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
You need to see the fuel pressure while cranking and once it fires it should be around 300 bar cranking and at idle some 1.6s seem to be 350 though but at idle it should be stable at that at 2000 revs it would be around 6-800 i would expect and again reasonably stable to test injectors you need to do leak off tests.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
That's where your problem is then something is either blocked stopping return flow or there is a problem inside the pump as I doubt injectors would do that a bad injector would normally make the pressure drop low and it would need all 4 to be blocked as if it was only 1 the others would bleed off the excess
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
Just to clarify again do you have a fuel primer bulb on top of engine and if so is it getting hard ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yes theres a primer bulb, it gets hard then goes soft again, cant remember when, I will check in the morning.
I have checked the return to the tank pump, it is flowing freely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
The thing I dont get is why pressure is rising quickly as although it could be a pump issue they are not prone to failure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I'm stumped too. All I could come up with was the new pressure sensor being faulty (unlikely) , the wiring to it being faulty (I cant find the voltages for the feeds) of the ECU being faulty?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
I dont think wiring is the issue in this case even though wiring is what I would normally suggest it's not going to be the ecu it never is ?

Unplug the pressure sensor then crank it see what the reading is if its zero the sensor and wiring are probably fine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I checked the leak off pipes in the engine bay and flow today, seems good, I'll check back to the sender tomorrow. What if the pressure regulator isnt getting a signal so its staying shut? The shut down is almost immediate, 2-3 seconds
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
The regulator is not really an on off switch it is pulsed by the ecu based on pressure readings from the rail sensor and engine speed.

Did you try cranking with rail sensor unplugged ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I'll do the FPS thing today. The FPR must have a default position, either all the way open or all the way closed. If its closed and its not getting a signal then then it would explain the fuel pressure going straight through the roof.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top