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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to everyone, I've just been to PaulMillard in MK to help me out with a diagnostic. Really helpful fella! I recommend him rather then going to the dealers.

The diagnostic was done as the dreaded de pollution message came up when I was climbing a hill and lost power and I couldn't go over 2800 revs. I managed to get the car home, looking up all sorts about it. Next day I started the car message was still there, but no problems with the revs. Gone to halford and picked up some dpf cleaner, filled up the tank and drove it for a good 30min in 4th gear at 3000-3500 revs. haven't had any issues since. Have to mention that I don't use the care often as I have comany van.

I have a leaky injector and bit of tacking from the engine, but nothing major. I will be getting the seals changed soon.

Paul has done 2 diags on diagbox so I will list the fault codes and see if someone had similar issues with there pugs so I can try to fix my one.

Diag 1
BSI 1 Fault
F000 Fault engine wiring housing : eCU mute on the CAN

Injection/ignition EDC16C3 ( 4 Faults )

P1351 Preheating relay circuit
List of associated variables
Engine speed 0771 rpm
Engine coolant temperature 013 °C
Battery voltage 14.06 V
pre-heat relay control Unspecified value
Preheating relay status Active

P0483 Cooling Function Integrated into the ECU (fan unit)

Cause Local
Status Intermittent .
Fault characterisation Open circuit or temperature too high
List of associated variables
Engine speed 1414 rpm
Engine coolant temperature 049 °C
Fan unit speed open cycle ratio 053 %
Status of engine Engine operating
Post operation engine status Post operating inactive

P0234 Turbo pressure electrovalve control

Cause Local
Status Intermittent .
Fault characterisation Flow too high
List of associated variables
Engine speed 2666 rpm
Turbo pressure. 2482 MBar
Turbo pressure reference value 2165 MBar
Turbo electrovalve open cycle ratio 019 %
Output injected 039 mg/stroke

P0100 Flowmeter signal

Cause Local
Status Intermittent .
Fault characterisation Air flow not plausible
List of associated variables
Engine speed 3213 rpm
Air flow per cylinder 1053 mg/stroke
EGR valve position 028 %
Output injected 042 mg/stroke
Air flow setting 827 mg/stroke

Power steering electric pump unit GEP ( 1 Faults )

C1210 Fault engine running

From . Local .
Status . Permanent fault
Characterisation of the fault. Not characterised

Diesel additive Communication error

Engine relay unit BSM ( 1 Faults )

F000 Engine fuse box not communicating on the CAN fault

Characterisation of the fault. Not characterised
Ownership not referenced Value not referenced

Trailer relay unit BSR
Important, ECU present on the vehicle but
configured absent

Radio or radiotelephone (radio part) AUTORADIO ( 1 Faults )

C91A Fault on the right-hand rear audio output.

From . Local .
Characterisation of the fault. Open circuit.

DIAG 2 after faults being cleared

F000 Fault engine wiring housing : eCU mute on the CAN
C1210 Fault engine running
F000 Engine fuse box not communicating on the CAN fault
C91A Fault on the right-hand rear audio output.

Any help will be appreciated!
 

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seems like you may have a blocked dpf filter due to those faults. the glow plug relay is either the relay or the glow plugs themselves

have you tried disconnecting the air flow meter and seeing for any improvement

the fan problem could be the relay has got dirty. or like on mine was running overdrive as its not regenerating properly

turbo solenoid is a common problem . id try to fix the others first as it may be causing odd readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'm quite new to all these things (I'm quite good when it comes to DIY but not as good when it comes to cars). Hope I don't sound stupid but where is that air flow meter and how to you disconnect it and what improvement should I see?
EDIT: I googled it and found that this MAF senson when it goes faulty doesn't allow you to rev properly. I don't have any issues with the revs, it does rev quite quick, the only thing is as I'm going through the revs, at 1500-1600 and 1900-2000 sometimes it stops for a fraction of a second and then it carries on.

The engine is running fine from my point of view probably not at 100%.
There is that fault that is permanent C1210 related to the power steering and I don't know what the problem might be. The power steering workes fine as far as I can tell.

As for the dpf being blocked. I'm hoping that I've cleared it a bit when I went for that long run. If it was blocked would the car still run?

A problem that I'm trying to fix is that my battery needs changing as I had to jump start it twice. I had the battery checked by halfords and it's defenetly the battery. I had a multi meter on it myself and the alternator in charging properly.

Any suggestions on what battery to get?

Second problem: When I turn the heater hot at some point after a couple of minutes I get a smell like burned fumes, is it related to the leaky injector that I have or could it be something else ?
 

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I'm quite new to all these things (I'm quite good when it comes to DIY but not as good when it comes to cars). Hope I don't sound stupid but where is that air flow meter and how to you disconnect it and what improvement should I see?
EDIT: I googled it and found that this MAF senson when it goes faulty doesn't allow you to rev properly. I don't have any issues with the revs, it does rev quite quick, the only thing is as I'm going through the revs, at 1500-1600 and 1900-2000 sometimes it stops for a fraction of a second and then it carries on.

The engine is running fine from my point of view probably not at 100%.
There is that fault that is permanent C1210 related to the power steering and I don't know what the problem might be. The power steering workes fine as far as I can tell.

As for the dpf being blocked. I'm hoping that I've cleared it a bit when I went for that long run. If it was blocked would the car still run?

A problem that I'm trying to fix is that my battery needs changing as I had to jump start it twice. I had the battery checked by halfords and it's defenetly the battery. I had a multi meter on it myself and the alternator in charging properly.

Any suggestions on what battery to get?

Second problem: When I turn the heater hot at some point after a couple of minutes I get a smell like burned fumes, is it related to the leaky injector that I have or could it be something else ?
I would stop jump staring it as you could kill the bsi and then it will not start at all even with a new battery

from the fault codes you have put up it looks like you have not used planet to read them if not the I would recommend using planet to read them and then also have a look at live data and do some actuate tests and you should be able to diagnose further then instead of replacing parts that are not needed
 

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As above jump start unless with surge protected leads is a no no it will at some point spike the BSI/ecu's. Replace battery then clear codes and see how you get on. A duff battery will cause all manner of random faults.

The power steering also often stops working. That could be your logged error on switch on volts too low and PAS ecu shuts down so when BSI tried to communicate no coms error logged, once engine running volts rise and PAS ECU powers up
 

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Paul is definitely using Planet :)

get a decent battery on from Euro car parts or similar the Electronics are very picky to voltage on Pugs and the jump start is deffo a big NO NO :nono:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll keep that in mind. I will be changing the battery very soon (no more jump starting) once I decide which one is best to get.

I understand that the battery is an important subject but the rest of the faults had (probably) nothing to do with my other problems.

loosing power on a hill climb or the car not reving properly at about 1500-2000 revs.

@monty
Should I still try disconnecting that MAF sensor? BTW: Where is it? :)

@trustme
Paul had Diagbox and Planet. the test were done in diagbox as he suggested it was a better program. After the 2 tests in diagbox he done one in planet as well and the same faults came up C1210 and the speaker one.

@windy
Do you think that the C1210 might be caused by the battery?

@all
"When I turn the heater hot at some point after a couple of minutes I get a smell like burned fumes, is it related to the leaky injector that I have or could it be something else ?"
 

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id do a bsi reset first. seem like odd problems

the maf sensor is under the 1.6 hdi engine cover its connected the airbox its a black clip with wires going to it
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #12
Like I said before I'm a newbie when it comes to cars.
If I disconnect that MAF sensor what should I be expecting, is it safe to drive the car with it being disconnected?

When I turn the heater hot at some point after a couple of minutes I get a smell like burned fumes, is it related to the leaky injector that I have or could it be something else ?
 

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It's a Facelift 307 right, same as ours? You can ignore the f000 communication errors, they are normal with diagbox and planet. It's fine to run with the maf disconnected, the ecu will run on defaults. As others have said, sort the glow plugs and change the fan relay and regens should the be fine.
Common causes of the exhaust smell are leaking injector seal or leaking around the cat to turbo clamp (you should see soot around the turbo if that is the case).
 
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Post deleted - I was only looking at the first page....

Its safe to drive with the MAF unplugged. You will get an error code / fault light on the dash but it will go after you plug it back in and do a couple of runs in it. You with either have no change at all, or a big improvement in perkiness, or a drop in performance ( which mine does?? )

Hopefully this will help suss out if it needs replacing or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
when it comes to performance it does perform, I didn't know the exact word for it, I have flat sport somethimes between 1500-1600 and 1900-2000. That's when I increase the revs slowly, if I put the foot down sky is the limit :)

Yes Eccles it is a facelift 307. With the fumes it probably is a injector leak as I have a lot of black hard shinny stuff near injector 3. I went to a mechanic and he recommended that I change all 4 seals rather then just the one... and I got a discounted offer :) he will pull the injectors out and to save on labour I should work on cleaning the injectors so he can put them back. Does that sound like a good offer?!

the glow plugs and fan relay, if I change them, what problem whould this sort out ?
 

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The glow plugs or relay will help with the car regenerating this stops the dpf getting blocked

The maf goes to a default mode when disconnected it is safe this way

Have uou tried tightening the injectors ?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I have thightened the injectors, I got some spare seals as well. No more fumes coming in the cabin. I also cleaned the carbon buildup.

Acording to diagbox the dpf is regenerating every couple of hundread miles.

It's been a year since, It's all working fine, no more limp mode. done 2 oil changes.

I just had the antipollution come up again. I've done a diagnostic and these are the results:

P0100 Flowmeter signal

Status Intermittent .
Fault characterisation Air flow not plausible
Engine speed 2763 rpm
Air flow per cylinder 1135 mg/stroke
EGR valve position 028 %
Output injected 045 mg/stroke
Air flow setting 827 mg/stroke

P0234 Turbo pressure electrovalve control

Status Permanent fault
Fault characterisation Flow too high
Engine speed 2602 rpm
Turbo pressure. 2482 MBar
Turbo pressure reference value 2212 MBar
Turbo electrovalve open cycle ratio 019 %
Output injected 046 mg/stroke

I have erased them but I know that doesn't fix the problem. Any ideas what might be causing these faults?
 

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Hdi Tuning have a guide on their website on how to sort that, it's probably on here somewhere also. Had this problem myself, the vanes were slightly distorted and were dragging on the sides of the turbo, thus not moving as quickly as the ecu wanted them to, causing it to overbooked. I replaced the nozzle ring and it's been perfect since. It's easy to test, carefully remove the circlip on the actuator (vnt) arm, the little lever that comes out the housing should move TOTALLY freely under its own weight. If it doesn't, then it needs looking at inside.
 
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