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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

A mad friend of mine recently purchased a 307 with a blown engine with the intent of swapping the blown engine for a good one. Turns out this 307 he's bought is a 110 while the engine he has purchased is a 90. :eek:

We've had a few issues along the way but we've solved them as far as getting the new engine in and on the mounts (new belts, clutch, flywheel etc) but have now run up against another set of problems which is why I'm here.

Basically the wiring loom on the 90 engine is missing electrical plugs to vital things on the car like the Aircon compressor, brake servo and other things.
It's reasonable to assume that this is because the loom on the replacement engine is for a non aircon 90 model with a different type of brake servo.

We still have to original 110 engine loom intact and on the old engine but we face the same problem in reverse. All the plugs will be there on the 110 engine BUT there will be some parts on the 110 engine that are not on the 90 and so will not be connected. This is a worry because we're hoping to make use of the 110 ecu that's still in the car (though I don't know if this is even possible?????)

Simply put we're stuck and now looking for the easiest and cheapest way to finish this off now we're so close.

Can we make use of the old 110 loom and not worry about things that the 110 had but are missing on the 90?
Can we use the 110 ECU on the 90?

Also anyone know where the vacuum pipe on the butterfly valve on the inlet manifold (sits inline between the turbo and the inlet manifol on the 90) goes?
On the 110, it connects eventually to a pair of solonoids that mount on the front of the engine near the bottom (around teh same place the clutch cyclder sits on the gearbox). On the 90 engine we have there is no solonoid or bracket - unless it's missing. We can't find any diagrams to cover that system....


Sorry for the lengthy post - just trying to be descriptive minus too much waffle.


Any help appreciated as we're a bit stuck LOL


:thumb:
 

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If it is a 2 litre you simply swap turbo manifolds and loom onto the replacement as they are the same engine its only turbo and manifold differences that make the power difference

Ok there are minor internal differences and injectors are slightly different but swapping everything onto good engine is easiest way
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If it is a 2 litre you simply swap turbo manifolds and loom onto the replacement as they are the same engine its only turbo and manifold differences that make the power difference

Ok there are minor internal differences and injectors are slightly different but swapping everything onto good engine is easiest way
Thanks for the info much appreciated. My mate WILL be glad to hear it. He's already crying into his cornflakes of a morning wondering what he's got himself into LOL

We haven't swapped the turbo manifold, we left on the one that was on the 90 engine but only due to the fact that the one on the 110 engine was cream crackered and the bolts holding it on sheered when trying to remove them.

This of course has now left us with the problem of reconnecting the exhaust since the flexible woven mesh covered "filter" is now wrong. It has a square plate and gasket where it bolted to the manifold on the 110 engine. On the 90 engine it's round.... Still working that one out hehehehe :nono:


Thanks again, you've been a real BIG help!! :thumb: :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You NEED the correct turbo as the control of boost on a 110 is different to a 90 hence the extra solenoids down the front !!
Sorry, I completely misunderstood.. I assumed from what you were saying about the differences between the two engines that by keeping the 90 manifold and turbo in place then it wouldeffectively be just a plain old 90 in there instead of the 110 spec. I don't think he's after building the 90 up to 110 spec unless it's an absolute must to make it work.

Don't get me wrong, if that's the way it HAS to be then it's gotta be done but if it's possible to keep it as a 90 without all the swapping then we'd rather go down that route especially since the bolts holding the knackered turbo to the 110 manifold have sheered.

Sorry for the confusion. Maybe I should have mentioned this in my first post along with the size of the engine too hehehe... SOrry, it's been a VERY long week. We've been at this since last Monday from sun up to sun down on an open driveway in all weather. As you can imagine, I've very tired :D


Thanks again for ALL your help! :thumb:
 

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The ecu will not be happy without the correct turbo as the boost control on a 90 is self regulating and on a 110 the ECU controls it based on other signals etc

It will start and run on the 90 turbo as it only needs a few signals to run but it will NOT run properly unless you do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The ecu will not be happy without the correct turbo as the boost control on a 90 is self regulating and on a 110 the ECU controls it based on other signals etc

It will start and run on the 90 turbo as it only needs a few signals to run but it will NOT run properly unless you do it right.

Ahhhh, I see. That clears alot up. Cheers :thumb:

Well, I'll be the bearer of good news tomorrow, bright and early and I'll see what he wants to do.

We've got to swap the looms anyway so it might be enough inspiration to fit the old loom and at least see if it starts. I think he'll be a lot happier and energized enough to carry on with his nightmare project if he can see the engine starts at least.

Tried ringing him earlier to deliver the good news but he's gone bed early bless him. I don't know why I'm laughing though since It means just as much work for me LOL :nod:

Cheers again!!!
 

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why don't you just undo the 3 bolts that hold the turbo and swap on the 90bhp turbo manifold and the exhaust outlet from the 110bhp they all come apart ,

when you took the 110bhp engine out did you noticed the pipes on the rear that link up the turbo? big tip while its out is to get the intake elbow from a 110bhp C5/406 and the bottom intercooler pipe as well then block of the EGR system or remove it and your only left with ONE solenoid that controls the turbo also much simpler and you will find the car will be a bit quicker with EGR blanked off mines done like the above id rather have it that way as its much easy to trace any issues I may have,
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Hi guys,

Again, MANY thanks for all the help we've had thus far!:thumb:

We've managed to fit the inlet, outlet manifolds and turbo from the 110 after some help from an engineer friend with drilling out the sheered bolts that fit the turbo to the housing.

Not sure if we did the right thing here but I've read about blanking off the air doser at the rear of the inlet manifold. Usually done (so I belive) by replacing the inlet elbow and the pipe that goes under the engine to the intercooler with parts off the C5? engine)... We couldn't get those parts so we just blanked off the rear doser and disconnected it from the VAC pipes and re-fitted the old pipe that went there originally which was the original one with the two outlets at the back of the engine (one goes to turbo, other goes to rear doser with the main pipe going to the lower side of the intercooler).

We also blanked out the EGR while there too. That was pretty straight forward.

Also we do have a BIG problem with the entire VAC pipe system.
Somehow along the way ALL the solonoids got removed from the front of the engine. Now we don't know what solenoid controlled what.

Are all the front solenoids the same spec? What coloured plugs go to what solenoid?

I've found diagrams that show the routing of the vac pipes and what solenoids they go to when they're already on the engine but now we're stuck lol...

In theory, we don't need half the solenoids now we've blanked the EGR and Rear Doser but we're stuck.... Any help would be greatly appreciated!!


P.S. we did as you suggested reliable406.. Fired the engine up before swapping all the 110 parts over to the new engine and it runs nice.
Should run even better now with all the right parts swapped and the air intakes etc degreased. All that cr4p from the EGR had reduced the inlets to about half their normal diameter.. Poor car must have been gasping LOL


Many thanks again,


:thumb::thumb::thumb:
 

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all the solenoids are the same you only need to wire up one to the turbo that's the grey plug, if you have the EGR and REAR dosers blanked off then I would blank off the front doser as well as you don't need this now you have blanked the rear,

Only run one vac pipe from the vac pump to the turbo solenoid at the front, and you will be grand if you can get a ECU reader send me your file over and I can remove the FAP and turn the EGR off so you don't get any codes
 

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Discussion Starter #14
all the solenoids are the same you only need to wire up one to the turbo that's the grey plug, if you have the EGR and REAR dosers blanked off then I would blank off the front doser as well as you don't need this now you have blanked the rear,

Only run one vac pipe from the vac pump to the turbo solenoid at the front, and you will be grand if you can get a ECU reader send me your file over and I can remove the FAP and turn the EGR off so you don't get any codes

Hi CMax_307,

Many many thanks for replying!

Just to clarify, when you say block off the front doser, I presume you mean in the same way as we did the rear doser - by just disconnecting / blocking the vac pipe? If memeory serves, this will leave the front doser valve in the open position permanently while the rear doser remains permanently closed?

Also regarding the ECU file, can you recommend a good (fairly cheap) reader?
Never really dealt with the ECU on cars other than to read fault codes.
Do we not need a reader & writer to upload the amended file when the EGR etc. has been deleted?

We do own a cheap orange OBD Fault code reader but I bet that's not the tool we need. Can't remember seeing any options in it like what we need.

RE: Solenoids.. Many thanks for that info. I feel more confident now we know what vac pipes to re-connect and what plug(s). I did notice all the model / serial numbers on the solenoids were the same but you never know. Best to ask :D

We've pretty much got everything done now appart from these vac pipes and solenoids and the ECU delete stuff. Hopefully the front will be all back together by the end of Monday and we can road test. We've had the rebuilt engine running yesterday and boy does it sound nice. Since we declogged the inlet manifolds from all that baked on soot, she don't half sound like she's cleared her throat!

The whole process has taken 2 us weeks but it's gone better than expected and we've learned a heck of a lot along the way. Can't say I'll be in a rush to do it again though LMFAO

Many thanks again :thumb:
 

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Yeah just block the pipes up or do what I did was to remove all the vac lines and only have one on the car for the turbo but you need to replace the vac line from the pump to the brake servo this can be got from a 90bhp car from a breaker 9/10 they use give you it or maybe charge you for it no more than £2 quid but am tight lol,

I done my engine swap in 2 days would have been one day but I had to get the clutch done and gaskets for the intake and exhaust were on order no big deal as I had use of another motor,

as for the reader I will link you to what I use as its never let me down it was about £15 posted maybe less now i'll do that when I get home, ECU side its best to map out the EGR and turn the doser's off in the ecu so its not looking for them as they are needed for the FAP regen cycle, since yours is removed you should notice more power from it,

when the brother blanked his EGR on his 90BHP 2.0, he noticed it right away :thumb:
 

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Yeah just block the pipes up or do what I did was to remove all the vac lines and only have one on the car for the turbo but you need to replace the vac line from the pump to the brake servo this can be got from a 90bhp car from a breaker 9/10 they use give you it or maybe charge you for it no more than £2 quid but am tight lol,

I done my engine swap in 2 days would have been one day but I had to get the clutch done and gaskets for the intake and exhaust were on order no big deal as I had use of another motor,

as for the reader I will link you to what I use as its never let me down it was about £15 posted maybe less now i'll do that when I get home, ECU side its best to map out the EGR and turn the doser's off in the ecu so its not looking for them as they are needed for the FAP regen cycle, since yours is removed you should notice more power from it,

when the brother blanked his EGR on his 90BHP 2.0, he noticed it right away :thumb:
Thanks CMax_307.

Spent a few hours today in the rain building the front of the car back up, fitting on all the coolant pipes etc. Not much left to do now at all.

Gotta put the arch liners back in and the bumper on and a few other little jobs like replace a missing spring clip, fill up the gearbox oil and of course, re-attach the exhasut properly. Should be good to go tomorrow.

RE the ECU reader.. I did some digging of my own in the meantime and all I can find regarding reading / writing to a 307s ECU is a device called a Galletto 1260

We've not ordered one yet as we're waiting to hear on which is the correct one. Also, we're not getting any warnings about the missing EGR / Dosers when the engine is running on idle - should we be seeing any at this stage?

We did have an eco mode fault but a quick read around here and a couple of other forums traced that back to the battery being almost dead. My mate about fell over when he saw it and thought the car had gone into some sort of limp mode LOL :D

Cheers again,

:thumb:
 

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If you plug in the solenoids but not bother connecting the pipes just the wires then the ecu will be happy enough as it THINKS they are still there :)

Eco mode was probably because it was idling it sometimes needs a rev to get the alternator charging
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you plug in the solenoids but not bother connecting the pipes just the wires then the ecu will be happy enough as it THINKS they are still there :)

Eco mode was probably because it was idling it sometimes needs a rev to get the alternator charging
Hi reliable406,

Thanks for replying! :thumb:

Due to one of the lowe pair of solenoids being damaged on the smaller of the two brackets, we only refitted the larger bracket and only connected one of those solenoids up to the turbo as advised. We figured we'd leave the second solenoid on the bracket as a backup / spare just in case.

This is what makes me ask why there are no faults showing and should there be any faults showing at this stage with only one solenoids electrically connected?
 

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I read and wrote my ECU file with a Galletto 1260.

Make sure you follow the precautions in the instructions that should come with it.
 
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