Peugeot Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hi all. been looking at gearing up to do my clutch

my thrust bearing whines and it squeaks when engine turned off. the clutch itself its fine

its been like this since ive had it. cant tell how long it was like it before ive done about 3000 miles

anyway

what tools are needed?

what parts are needed?
new gearbox oil, new clutch new thrust bearing?

whats the easiest way to do it? drop the engine out?
what does this entail to be removed?

anything that is recommended to be changed at the same time for peace of mind?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
I did mine in 3-4 hours no special tools but i have full spanner set, 1/4 1/2 3/4 drive socket sets torq sockets is a must 1/2 drive is good screw drivers pliers hammer copper slip is good, i took gearbox out but probably undo the engine at some mounts for extra movement i had mine up in the air and worked above and below it which is highly recommended for your stress levels! Valeo clutch kit is good.
Gear oil in case you need it (you may be able to leave the gearbox cv joints in without losing gear oil but tbh i can't remember)
Clutch aligning tool for the novice but i use a socket extension bar or ratchet handle and eye up the friction plate before tightening the pressure plate fully.

Obviously this isn't a how to but its just a couple of thoughts i have of hand lol.

Undo any plastic pipes or electrical connectors that you may snag and break as there will be movement if you haven't done many of these get some help with lifting etc, be careful of the clutch slave and don't press the clutch when the engine and box are split i.e ya mate is sat in the car bored and starts pressing things!

The thrust bearing is pre oiled but i find spending some time cleaning it and i spray some wd40 in it then a bit of grease and work it again works for me i only ever shoved 1 in as was and i could hear it spinning lol.
Just take care remember where things go maybe make a cut out of cardboard and and shove ya bolts in I'm order and separate each section of bolts for different parts.
:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks mate. i have never tackled major jobs because my drives tiny

i am confident in taking my time and doing things right

few questions i have

- when i bleed the slave cylinder will i need to bleed the brakes again or just the cylinder
- thrust bearing lubing whats best?
- how does the pressure plate stay in. is it held by the outer bell? so it doesnt come lose while you try to refit the gearbox
- whats the best way to drain the gearbox oil my engine only seems to have a refill hole not a drain plug
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
Avoid clutch kits you never hear of or are dirt cheap i got a valeo clutch kit for 130.
Usually a clutch kit consists of friction plate, thrust bearing and pressure plate.
You have the option of flywheel which can be dual Mass or single mass i can't tell you which 1 you have.
The gearbox oil only comes out if the driveshafts/inner cv joints pop out.
The brakes aren't connected to the clutch so won't need re bleeding buy may i suggest doing it as a matter of course later on at some stage.
Any aligning tool will do its just a shaft with a screw wheel on that centralises the friction disk centre so the main gearbox shaft slots in nicely (in theory lol)

Thrust bearing can be lightly packed with high melting point grease (not too much don't want any flinging off and contaminating the clutch).

I don't think you will have a dmf but either way still inspect the condition of your existing flywheel and ring gear as a job like this doesn't want doing often! Also see if you can see if any oil is getting past the engine oil seal behind the flywheel as now is the best time to replace it.

If it helps you take lots of photos of each stage of the job as they help you put things back correctly and also makes good reading for other forum members.
If you need any more help there's lots of clever ppl on here that can help.
Have fun.
:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
Avoid clutch kits you never hear of or are dirt cheap i got a valeo clutch kit for 130.
Usually a clutch kit consists of friction plate, thrust bearing and pressure plate.
You have the option of flywheel which can be dual Mass or single mass i can't tell you which 1 you have.
The gearbox oil only comes out if the driveshafts/inner cv joints pop out.
The brakes aren't connected to the clutch so won't need re bleeding buy may i suggest doing it as a matter of course later on at some stage.
Any aligning tool will do its just a shaft with a screw wheel on that centralises the friction disk centre so the main gearbox shaft slots in nicely (in theory lol)

Thrust bearing can be lightly packed with high melting point grease (not too much don't want any flinging off and contaminating the clutch).

I don't think you will have a dmf but either way still inspect the condition of your existing flywheel and ring gear as a job like this doesn't want doing often! Also see if you can see if any oil is getting past the engine oil seal behind the flywheel as now is the best time to replace it.

If it helps you take lots of photos of each stage of the job as they help you put things back correctly and also makes good reading for other forum members.
If you need any more help there's lots of clever ppl on here that can help.
Have fun.
:)
The pressure plate is held to the flywheel by a number of bolts around its circumference.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
11,766 Posts
Some good advice here. The labour time is the biggest killer so make the most of it by remembering the days are short, and that you've done as much prep work as you can before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
i meant friction plate when i asked how it stayed in place

im hoping its not going to be until the nights get longer lol :)

the haynes manual talks about removing the clutch pedal. surely this isnt needed
im aware that getting to the thing is the hard part

i meant friction plate when i asked how it stayed in place
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
Yes your right the friction plate goes in then the pressure plate loosely then you align the friction plate centre with either the tool or extension bar and when your happy you torque up the pressure plate, job done.

I didn't take the pedal off, but as said you must be careful of any pipes or wires in the area as you might find yourself pushing and pulling the box to get it on the engine and lining up the bell housing etc, i find that being able to jack the box and engine up and down independently helps, also if you get it somewhere near put a long bolt in loosely into 1 of the holes to help you keep them aligned while you get them together fully.
Also watch the pressure plate fingers don't snag on the shaft.
:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yes your right the friction plate goes in then the pressure plate loosely then you align the friction plate centre with either the tool or extension bar and when your happy you torque up the pressure plate, job done.
:)
so does that mean once the alignment tool is installed and the pressure plate is installed it holds the friction plate inside?

only reason im asking is you have to take the alignment tool out to refit the gearbox :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
Yes the tool centralises the friction plate until the pressure plate is done then you withdraw the tool and it is all held together then the gearbox shaft goes through the centre of it all, if the friction plate wasn't acceptably centralized you'd have a bitch of a job to get the engine and gearbox together.

On a side note when you are putting them together you probably rock the whine/gearbox back and fourth to get the splines of the shaft into the friction plate but you'll see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
thanks all. im not doing it until the clutch starts slipping.

i dont fancy paying 300 to have it done really. its an old car haha
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top