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J

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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, touched on this on my other thread, but that thread was mainly to see if I got a good deal with the clutch (cheers Martin for the info btw was VERY useful)

But I ended up taking the rear pads off cos the motor factors told me to. I just want to know if you can tell from the below images the following:

1. have my pads ever been changed before??
2. Do I need new rear discs (no warping, but slight lip, see photos)
3. there are 2 disc sizes, one 247 diameter and the other 249 diameter, I can't measure this, but why the hell would they make things that close? And does it matter?
4. you'll notice only one torx c'sunk screw in the hub or whatever it's called. It's obvious that the other has been lost, but will I die?




 
J

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Discussion Starter #3
Personally, for the cost of discs and pads, and looking at the condition of those, I would change them.. only take a couple of hours at most.
 

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2nd change them mine looked the same when i bought my 307 after you change the discs and pads bleed the brakes as you will find theres air in the lines do you need a guide for the front and rear removal of the discs?

they are easy to do and dont worry about the missing torx screw as most are like that and you wont die :thumb:
 
J

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Discussion Starter #5
I've bought the pads, but can't measure the disc, and apparently the 2mm in diameter difference will make a huge impact on the system, so I told my mechanic to just measure the discs and buy them n fit them as well as my pads when I take the car in.

£150 labour for clutch and £60 labour for discs n pads. I bet I know which one he'll earn more money on :lol:
 
J

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Discussion Starter #7
He'll be doing well if he can measure the diameter accurately to that degree bearing in mind all the rust around the disc, which will have inevitably increased the diameter of the disc. I'm sure if you went direct to Pug they would tell you which diameter discs you have on there... you don't need to buy them from them, but they don't need to know that when asking :thumb:
 
C

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Discussion Starter #8
Provided that all other measurements are the same, I can't see that a 1mm increase in radius will make any difference whatsoever to the fit or performance of the discs. After all, the corrosion has already increased the size of your old discs by a similar amount.

Look on servicebox with your chassis number to get the part number for your discs for your exact car - once you have that you'll be able to cross reference that against most quality aftermarket manufacturers catalogues and get the right ones.

Or just buy them from the pug dealers.
 

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Looks like my breaks before they were replaced, I would say this is very typical of 307 breaks. Mine were so bad the mechanic had to use a sledge to loosen the rear section and then grind away a load of rust before refitting the new breaks.
 
J

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Discussion Starter #10
Tch! I got another quote for £120 labour to do the clutch ;)

So I've told the new bloke just to do pads (no discs) and he's gonna do my tensioner and belt.

£210 for tensioner, belt, and labour for that, brakes and clutch.

Thoughts?
 
D

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Discussion Starter #11
Tch! I got another quote for £120 labour to do the clutch ;)

So I've told the new bloke just to do pads (no discs) and he's gonna do my tensioner and belt.

£210 for tensioner, belt, and labour for that, brakes and clutch.

Thoughts?
Man, mechanics earn nothing in the UK!!
They sound dead cheap!!
 
C

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Discussion Starter #12
Do the discs! They look pretty karked. Why skimp on life-saving equipment?

I must agree David. Considering what plumbers, electricians or solicitors can charge per hour, your typical vehicle technician is pretty good value, yet people still whittle about it.
 
J

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Discussion Starter #13
Hehe I got a good deal then? :D

I missed the discs out, I'll look and see if he did any of that grinding business mentioned before. :thumb:
 
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