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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I need some help with my 2001 peugeot 307 HDI ***90. I had antipollution fault on the central consul and the engine management light on. I have had it on diagnostics and these are the error codes

***P0222 Accelerator pedal signal fault: short circuit to earth on 1 wire
***P0227 Accelerator pedal signal fault: short circuit to earth on 2 wire
***P0562 Battery voltage fault: voltage too low
***P0215 Multifunction relay circuit short circuit or open circuit on the control section
***P1169 voltage converter voltage too high or too low
***P0344 cylinder reference signal short circuit between two wires open circuit or no signal

i have replaced the battery, MAF, crankshaft posistion sensor, glow plugs, air filter, fuel filter and diesel filter. i paid an auto electrician to have a look and he said there is a bad connection in the ecu and he showed me by have the engine running and wiggling the middle plug on the ecu the engine stalls. He asked me to buy a second hand ecu of ebay and he will use it to repair mine, but he can not guarantee the problem will be gone after, because i only paid him for an hours labour to investigate the problem so that was all he was able to find in the hour. He will be charging £85 to replace the ecu kit. I have aready spent over ***£250 and a second company say if i remove my ecu and send it to them they can try and repair it, it will cost £130 if the can and £30 if the can't.I want advice weather i should go ahead and buy a second hand ecu kit to replace mine or send mine to see if it can be repaired. I hope this the right place to post this since am new to the site. Sorry in advance if am posting this in the wrong section. Any help will be appreciated. thanks
 

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It depends what it is they are replacing?

If they are talking about repairing the ECU thats one thing but when it comes to replacing the ECU, I believe that the ECU/BSI/Transponders are a matched set so you cant just replace ECU on its own.

If it was me I'd be finding an ECU specialist for a repair.
 

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I'm not convinced the problem lies with the ECU.

Wiggling the plug could simply be disturbing a broken wire or loose connection in the plug which would be a cause of intermittent contact though it could be a bad solder joint inside the ECU.

I'd pull on the individual wires going to the plug to see if one (or more) of them seem to stretch which would indicate a broken wire. I've come across many broken wires in plugs like these on machines that don't operate in as harsh conditions as under the bonnet. If all wires seem ok then I'd check to see if any of the female pins in the plug / socket look slighly bigger than the rest which would indicate it isn't making a good contact with the corresponding male pin. If one is obviously much bigger then try and close it a bit using a very small screwdriver or try and take it out (If in the plug) and gently squeeze with a pair of pliers to close it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks Roky for the for your advice I have been in work only just got back hence the late reply. I have talked to an ecu repair specialist in ivy bridge and he say if i can get it to him, he can take a look at it. so I will go down this root first if the consensus is that is the ecu. many thanks again for taking the time to reply
 

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I agree with storeman ecu is unlikely to be the issue wiring connections are far more common than ecu faults I bought a citroen c3 recently an expert had concluded the ecu was faulty it would crank and not start.

Timing belt had been fitted wrongly and was 180 degrees and 1 tooth out retimed started first turn my daughter now has a cheap runabout :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Many thanks Storeman sorry for the late reply was at work. I paid an auto electrician to check the wire and he diagnosed it as a loose connection in the ecu. I would have thought that he would have checked the plug for any loose or broken connections first but i could be wrong. I am not very confident tempering with the plugs my self since the last time i unplug them to get the ecu number for the repair specialist the car refuse to start i had to keep playing with it till it finally started.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Reliable406 I wills just have to double check the wiring. My fear is making it worse.I will try and do that this weekend
 

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Like I said earlier, I work on high speed machines that have many multi pin plugs on them. These machine operate inside buildings, many in climate controlled environments and suffer from intermittent faults. Checking continuity ogf the wires can give a false result that all the wires are ok even if the wire is broken as it can sometime make contact at the break. If you pull the wire then it will start to stretch at the break and if you pull hard enough, the outer insulation will snap. Other issues have been poor connections between the pins in the plu and the pins in the socket. Very rarely is it a PCB fault. Most PCB faults are down to liquids spilling on to them or disconnecting / reconnecting them with power on. I'm not saying it isn't the ECU - simply I'm not convinced it is just because an auto electrician says it is.

I once worked on a machine that two other engineers had spent a whole shift working on. They had replaced 4 PCB's without resolving the problem. I found that it was a photocell with unshielded cables going back to the PCB that was the issue. The unshielded cables were picking up electromagnetic spikes from a large motor and sending false signals back to the board. The fault was proved by altering software settings to shorten the time the sensor was active (it didn't need to be active all the time). The fault was reported back to the factory who investigated and sent out a tech bulletin stating the photocell was to be replaced with shielded ones on all machines already sold.

An auto electrician is not necessaruly an electronics technician. As reliable said - just because a supposed expert makes a diagnosis doesn't mean that is the fault. Experience is worth a lot more than a title. Your auto electrician may be right but experience tells me the PCB (which is what an ECU basically is) is rarely the cause but gets blamed far too often.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Many Thanks Storeman, would you suggest i get another auto electrician and explain to him to recheck all the wires to the ecu since am not very confident in doing this myself?
 
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