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Discussion Starter #1
If you're finding water getting into the boot and spare wheel well on the 307 (and other models), there are a few places it could be getting in:

Boot seal
Rear Light Clusters
Boot air vents
Boot release (see PART TWO later)


The first two are pretty easy fixes.

Boot Seal
Over the years dirt and grime accumulate under the rubber. Simply peel off and wash in a big bucket of hot soapy water (or the sink or the bath). Leave to dry, maybe pop onto a radiator for half an hour to warm up and become supple before re-fitting.

While the rubber is off, give the bare metal of the hatchback a good wipe down. If you're feeling brave, add a coating of PTFE tape (the type you use on radiators and household washing machine pipes) to "lift" up the seal a bit. Its quite time consuming and fiddly.

When you re-fit, if you have a soft rubber mallet (like for camping), that's really good to ensure a good fit.


Rear Light Clusters
The sponge gasket that sits between the rear lights and the bodywork need to be removed and washed in warm soapy water.


Boot Air Vents
I know what you're thinking - "what?".

Behind the bumper and the plastic trim in the boot are two air vents. They're two simple plastic devices that sit into holes in the boot, and let in water when their gasket seal rots - see pictures on the next few posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is my boot, with the plastic trim removed.

Note the absorbent blue paper stuffed into the holes to catch the water!

The white tape is just to keep the boot side carpet in place while the trim is removed.

 

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The Haynes manual is good for explaining how to remove the bumper.

1) Remove both rear light clusters (10mm spanner or socket)

2) With the clusters removed you'll see a bolt and a grey plastic grommet. Remove the bolt, push in the centre of the grommet to release and remove it.

3) Remove the centre bolt underneath, in the middle of the bumper.

4) Remove the four plastic grommets from each lower corner of the bumper. They keep it attached to the wheel arch liners.

5) Carefully peel back the rear wheel arch liners to get access to a T15 Torx screw. I took the wheels off to do this.

6) With an assistant at each end, pull the ends of the bumper away from the car, in opposite directions to each other. Then when it unclips, pull it back - one of you disconnecting the rear number plate lights.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
These are the vent units:



This is where they sit:



Look closely and you'll see the rubber gasket sealant has perished on the top side:

 

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Discussion Starter #5
I decided to remove the gasket completely. I used a sharp craft knife to cut it out, peel it away and then give the plastic a clean with WD40.

Wash the unit with soapy water and dry thoroughly.

I then (badly) ran a line of sealant around the edge and refitted:



Its not going to be visible, so it doesn't have to look good!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not sure if it was leaking, but I also cleaned and re-sealed the rubber grommet for the rear number plate light wiring:



And did the rear light clusters:



I actually did the rear light clusters some months ago as they were also leaking, and since then have been fine. Note how the water has run down. I believe its this channel of water that was creeping in.

If its a warm sunny day, leave the bumper and clusters off to help dry the sealant.

When re-attaching the bumper make sure you use new plastic grommets. The old ones will be worn and won't hold in place securely.

See my thread here for replacing all those on your car with that push through "+" shape in them:

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/bodyshop-techniques-modifications-10/improving-wheel-arch-liner-attachments-24101/
 

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Discussion Starter #7
PART TWO!

So, a few weeks on and there's still water getting in. However, its a tiny amount compared to before, but enough to soak a rag I've been keeping to absorb the water and check for further leaks.

If you look at this picture, the paper towels I stuffed in the recesses were dry where they meet the boot vents, but were wet right behind the boot lock area.



So, I whipped out the parcel shelf, boot "floor" (carpeted board), spare wheel and tools. Then sat in the boot while my trusty assistant sprayed the car with a hosepipe.

For the first few minutes, absolutely nothing coming in.

Then I saw a tiny trickle from the boot lock. I lifted the hatchback and water dripped out of the lock. This is a picture of the lock removed, everything below the red line sticks out of the tailgate:

 

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Discussion Starter #8
There's a large plastic piece of trim covering the mechanicals and rear wiper motor of the boot hatch, held in by two Torx screws.



Remove and gently prise from the boot.

Once removed you can see the back of the boot handle:



All around the arrowed area was damp and slimy:



I undid the two nuts and withdrew the boot handle. It was interesting to note that the nuts weren't tight at all (had 13 years of use made them slack?). A 10mm socket on an extension bar was all that was needed to unscrew, I didn't need to use the ratchet at all.



As you can see, the rubber gasket was wet, thin and perished.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Servicebox doesn't show the gasket, just the boot handle at £45.



I gently removed the gasket from the boot, washed and dried it. It was extremely thin and worn, I don't think it would keep water out anymore, so I needed a replacement.

I found an old bike inner tube, cut a length and then drew around the old gasket, and cut a new one to shape (no pics, sorry).

I then cleaned the whole area around the switch, put a very thin bit of silicone sealant on the new gasket and re-fitted the boot handle and let it dry.

We've not had any rain as of yet, I'll update when we've had a shower or two.

UPDATE: No leaks whatsoever. After six months I had a look behind all plastics and they were as dry as a bone with no signs of water running.
 

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Rear light cluster seals

I replaced the rear light cluster seals which worked a treat.

Before that the spare wheel well was always damp or had a puddle in it.

A more professional and less Del Boy way to do this is to buy some 5mm Neoprene from eBay and use the old seals as a stencil. Takes 10 minutes and is much less messy than slapping silicone sealant all over the place.

JOB DONE
 

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Hi,

Sorry for cross posting but the one you did for the wheel arch covers is closed and i cant reply. What size clips did you use?

I am also going to use your tips for the lights etc, thanks.
 

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Thanks Gibbo. Are they the ones you used or would you recommend others? My son has an awful rattling coming from the front end.

It was suggested that it may be the droplinks, I don't know if thats the cause but there is play in them so hes going to change them, but thought it may be worth putting new clips in if the cover is a bit loose.

Thanks
 

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Missing Pictures

Hi,

See this alot on forums now with the photos - on a forum for my old car (Zafira) we got round it by uploading videos to YouTube and linking that in the start of the thread.

You basically put all of the pics in a video clip with captions to say what it is.

Most people used the free Microshaft program "Movie Maker" others used their own prefered programs but the end result as the same :)

Would help me out as I have a leaking 307 and have checked the boot rubber and both rear lights. For now there is an extra "drain hole" towards the back of the spare wheel well - who thought it would be good to put one at the front and uphill from where the water sits ??
 
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