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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys my 307 has been nothing but bother since i bought it, its 2002 2.0 HDI D turbo with 115k on the clock. Firstly I removed the DPF which cleared the fault for like an hour and then it returned. The fault readings on PP2000 at the minute are:
Engine ECU:
Permanent Fault. Turbo Pressure. Short circuit to earth or circuit open.
Permanent Fault. Pre/Post heating relay circuit. Relay Stuck.

ABS or ESP ECU:
Permanent Fault. Rear right wheel speed sensor. Coherance.
Intermittent Fault. Communication with the engine management ECU fault. Incorrect value recieved.

The car is in limp mode. Im guessing the speed sensor will need cleaned on the rear right wheel. Anybody have any ideas as to the reason for low boost?
I need to get this bloody car sorted!! :mad:

Thanks
 

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intercooler pipes

I had same fault on mine - it turned out to be a pipe clip / jubilee clip off at the rear of the engine - on the intercooler pipework - i could not get to it by hand - only had to use long screwdrivers and a 7mm socket on a really long extension bar - took abou 15mins to get it on right and tight. all ok now

hope this may help
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It could be that, im yet to check all the clips. Il have to get under her and check that tomorrow. Other than that i was thinking it could be the turbo solenoid valve, any opinions?
 

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Check the obvious :)

In my experience of peugeot HDI engines - (which is not that extensive - to be honest) is it will be either electrical, something loose or not fitted quite right, these cars seem to suffer from electrical issues rather than severe mechanical failure - now due to the complex sensing and control of these engines - one slight thing out can send you off on a wild goose chase and potentially head you down a road costly part buying... when it could just be something daft.

cheers stuart
 

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when you clean your brake sensor make sure that the air gap is as small as possible,manuals say about 1.5mm but i've found this to be wrong,just make the gap as small as poss but obviously without the sensor rubbing :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I just wanted to ask more experienced 307 owners opinion like you said to avoid the expensive trial and error. Is there any other obvious things to check?
 

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well with the two engine ecu ones, it says to me glow plugs and turbo sensor.

the brake one is that the wheel named will need where the sensor sits, cleaning and resitting properly as matt has said.
 

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where is the turbo sensor located?
I've had all the same errors myself. As the others have already said clean wheel sensor and shim it with a thin washer so it's about 1mm from the magnetic ring it faces.
Remove the road wheel and you can access the bolt for the sensor through one of the road wheel bolt holes, using a fairly long 5mm allen key. If the allen key doesn't seem to fit correctly it is likely due to a build up of dirt/corrosion, just give it a firm tap with a hammer to drive it into the bolt head. Clean the sensor and the magnetic ring it faces (rear of wheel bearing) with brake cleaner or similar and a rag.

This may fix the incorrect value received error too though I still have this error occasionally, it seems to be triggered every time the car goes into limp mode (due to low turbo pressure).

Turbo solenoid valve is on the front of the engine (opposite radiator) just left of the middle and down right near the bottom. There are four of the same valves on the front of the engine, the turbo one is the bottom-most one.
I found a dodgy connection on mine and I think it's what triggered the same error as you are seeing (Turbo pressure short circuit to earth or circuit open) though I haven't been able to confirm this yet.

Permanent Fault. Pre/Post heating relay circuit. Relay Stuck.
I also had this, changing the glow plugs fixed it. Easy enough to do but be very careful, apparently the tips of the plugs are prone to snapping.
Advice I have read and followed successfully was to squirt wd40 or diesel into the well around each plug, leave for 30mins, undo each plug 1/2 to 1 turn and leave another 10mins or so then slowly and carefully undo each plug.
You may wish to apply a little copper grease to the shaft and threads before inserting the new ones.

Hope this helps :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the reply. I was going to change the solenoid valve but i wasnt sure which one went to the turbo so that helps. Bettyswollocks recommended changing this first, just try cheaper things before i would consider the turbo lol :eek:

so with the fault code showing is it more likely that it is a loose connection in the solenoid valve?
 

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Have you looked at the solenoid yet? The wires leading from it on mine were hanging down only 6 or 8 inches from the road surface so could easily have been broken by something flicking up off the road. I would think the break is more likely to be in the external wires rather than inside the solenoid itself.
I fixed my wiring today and the open circuit fault code is now gone. I also replaced the solenoid with a new one from Peugeot but unfortunately it hasn't fixed my low boost problem :(
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll be looking at the solenoid tomorrow. I am hopeful that it would clear my fault too but at the same time pessimistic about whether it will get this car running right. Is yours still in limp mode after the fault code cleared?
 

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The fault code that is causing my limp mode is P0246 Low turbo boost.
If I clear the fault the car is fine but it comes back on almost every journey I make.

More recently I was getting the open circuit fault which also puts it into limp mode and as long as its there I believe it will stay in limp mode. If this is the only fault you have I would expect that once its fixed you should be fine. You may not even have to clear the fault code because as soon as the wiring is fixed the car should recognise it. Try starting and stopping the engine 4 or 5 times after fixing if its still in limp mode. Some errors are automatically cleared after a few successful starts with no errors.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well i dont know how much but i dont need diag again lol. I just want someone to get this thing up so i can look at the valve, but i cant do that myself
 
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