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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

I have searched this wonderful forum for the answer and have gained some bits of useful info but I'm a bit stuck!

The passenger door unlocks with the central locking but can only open if using the inside handle first. So once unlocked via central locking, i can't open it from the outside handle, only the inside handle - once done, the outside handle functions normally and opens the door.

I have taken it apart and checked the physical cable mechanisms which seem fine (presumed they would as both handles do work), and I can hear the central locking motor going if i put my ear to the passenger door, when the car is unlocked with a key in the drivers door.

I haven't tested the contacts with a multimeter as again i've done research but not 100% sure where to place the tester points.

Does anyone have any idea about this please? I read that it might be the door actuator but although i have taken the door panel off and have had a good look behind the foam panelling, I don't know where it is - is it basically the main lock unit itself? I don't really want to go spending money on it unless I am fairly sure that's what i need to replace!!

Thanks in advance

Chris
 

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Hi

I have searched this wonderful forum for the answer and have gained some bits of useful info but I'm a bit stuck!

The passenger door unlocks with the central locking but can only open if using the inside handle first. So once unlocked via central locking, i can't open it from the outside handle, only the inside handle - once done, the outside handle functions normally and opens the door.

I have taken it apart and checked the physical cable mechanisms which seem fine (presumed they would as both handles do work), and I can hear the central locking motor going if i put my ear to the passenger door, when the car is unlocked with a key in the drivers door.

I haven't tested the contacts with a multimeter as again i've done research but not 100% sure where to place the tester points.

Does anyone have any idea about this please? I read that it might be the door actuator but although i have taken the door panel off and have had a good look behind the foam panelling, I don't know where it is - is it basically the main lock unit itself? I don't really want to go spending money on it unless I am fairly sure that's what i need to replace!!

Thanks in advance

Chris
Actuator faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not to bad, just be careful with the clips on doorcard they brake very easily.
OK thanks, yes got into the door and past the foam stuff!

Is it literally a case of unscrewing the large screws visible on the 'side' of the door? Presume there must be some cabling attached? I can't find a guide or youtube vid anywhere unfortunately!
 

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Sounds to me like the anti hijack which prevents the passenger door being opened when stopped. This should only function after the car has been driven above a certain speed though. Does the red light on the door lock button in the dash extinguish when unlocked with the remote??
 

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Sounds to me like the anti hijack which prevents the passenger door being opened when stopped. This should only function after the car has been driven above a certain speed though. Does the red light on the door lock button in the dash extinguish when unlocked with the remote??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds to me like the anti hijack which prevents the passenger door being opened when stopped. This should only function after the car has been driven above a certain speed though. Does the red light on the door lock button in the dash extinguish when unlocked with the remote??
Thanks storeman. Well that's a bit tricky because next job is to sort the key fob, battery drains after about a day so I am using the physical key to lock and unlock. Can't see any lock indicator on the dash though?
93393
 

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The Haynes only mentions the door lock motor which is integral with the door lock assembly! I reckon you wait and sort out the key fob so you are fully functional signal wise before blaming the actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The Haynes only mentions the door lock motor which is integral with the door lock assembly! I reckon you wait and sort out the key fob so you are fully functional signal wise before blaming the actuator.
Yeah thanks...but then the issue is still the same when using the fob to lock/unlock?
 

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If its draining the battery then perhaps the voltage is low enough to not have enough energy to operate the door actuator/lock assembly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If its draining the battery then perhaps the voltage is low enough to not have enough energy to operate the door actuator/lock assembly?
I hadn't even considered that, I just presumed the fob simply sends a quick signal to the receiver to tell the system to lock or unlock?
 

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Yes it does but what I am saying is the main car battery might not have the energy as you say it drains although the fob battery needs to be tip top too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes it does but what I am saying is the main car battery might not have the energy as you say it drains although the fob battery needs to be tip top too.
Ah sorry, i meant the key fob battery only lasts a day or so, not the car battery
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That is the problem then I would have thought.
But why would using the physical key to unlock make a difference to using the remote button? Because all the other doors unlock and lock with the key, in fact the passenger door in question does lock with the key, just doesn't seem to unlock, although as I say the cables seem fine and once unlocked with the interior handle you can then use the exterior handle to open.
 
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