I have recently purchased a 307 with the 2.0 16V petrol engine EW10A RFJ. that has developed a hesitation and lack of power at low RPM (800-1500) particularly with sharp throttle openings off idle. It is much worse when cold and will sometimes stall. It doesn't seem to have any issues until about 5-10sec after staring from cold (guessing it is when the car is operating in closed loop). If I hold the revs at around 1200rpm then snap the throttle open it will misfire and stumble then rev as normal. It accelerated and revs normally once above 1500rpm. It will do this when in neutral also so not likely to be transmission related. It does not show any fault codes.

It is staring to drive me nuts and cost me a small fortune as I have replaced a number of parts that could cause similar symptoms. This is what I have done so far with no success.

Spark plugs (Bosch)
Ignition coil (old one had hairline cracks in it)
Engine flush (liquidly engine detox) and oil change
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Coolant temp sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
Removed and cleaned injectors (not professionally cleaned but flushed them thoroughly with carb cleaner while cycling them on and off and removed any deposits)
Cleaned throttle body
Cleaned intake with Liquimoly Petrol engine intake de-carb
Full tank of Liquimoly injector cleaner
Checked ECU wiring for water damage
Checked injector resistance at cold (#1-12.5ohm,#2-13.1ohm,#3-12.5ohm,#4-12.4ohm)
Can't find any obvious vacuum leaks


Has anyone come across similar issues with this engine or model that could give me any advice? Any help would be much appreciated.

Hi Skippy93,
Did you get any answer for this problem?
I am having the same issue and can't find a solution anywhere. I have replaced the throttle body, map sensor, cleaned the intake, cleaned the injectors and no success until now.

Cheers,

 

It is a old(2yrs) thread so best to start your own detailing symptoms and actions already taken so that we can try and pinpoint the cause. Car and engine details need to be entered too!

 

Had you tried replacing the accelerator potentiometer?

If your car has fly-by-wire throttle, it could be the unit that comes attatched to the top of the accelerator

(This is the case with my 2.0 HDi anyway, petrols may be different )

 

I have recently purchased a 307 with the 2.0 16V petrol engine EW10A RFJ. that has developed a hesitation and lack of power at low RPM (800-1500) particularly with sharp throttle openings off idle. It is much worse when cold and will sometimes stall. It doesn't seem to have any issues until about 5-10sec after staring from cold (guessing it is when the car is operating in closed loop). If I hold the revs at around 1200rpm then snap the throttle open it will misfire and stumble then rev as normal. It accelerated and revs normally once above 1500rpm. It will do this when in neutral also so not likely to be transmission related. It does not show any fault codes.

It is staring to drive me nuts and cost me a small fortune as I have replaced a number of parts that could cause similar symptoms. This is what I have done so far with no success.

Spark plugs (Bosch)
Ignition coil (old one had hairline cracks in it)
Engine flush (liquidly engine detox) and oil change
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Coolant temp sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
Removed and cleaned injectors (not professionally cleaned but flushed them thoroughly with carb cleaner while cycling them on and off and removed any deposits)
Cleaned throttle body
Cleaned intake with Liquimoly Petrol engine intake de-carb
Full tank of Liquimoly injector cleaner
Checked ECU wiring for water damage
Checked injector resistance at cold (#1-12.5ohm,#2-13.1ohm,#3-12.5ohm,#4-12.4ohm)
Can't find any obvious vacuum leaks


Has anyone come across similar issues with this engine or model that could give me any advice? Any help would be much appreciated.

How did you go with this? I bought my son a 2006 307 2.0 Petrol that does the very same thing?

 

Did you read all the threads entries? It is a old thread so best to start a new one with all the details of the car and the problem and that way we can better diagnose the cause. service history and car engine and gearbox details needed as well.

 

I have recently purchased a 307 with the 2.0 16V petrol engine EW10A RFJ. that has developed a hesitation and lack of power at low RPM (800-1500) particularly with sharp throttle openings off idle. It is much worse when cold and will sometimes stall. It doesn't seem to have any issues until about 5-10sec after staring from cold (guessing it is when the car is operating in closed loop). If I hold the revs at around 1200rpm then snap the throttle open it will misfire and stumble then rev as normal. It accelerated and revs normally once above 1500rpm. It will do this when in neutral also so not likely to be transmission related. It does not show any fault codes.

It is staring to drive me nuts and cost me a small fortune as I have replaced a number of parts that could cause similar symptoms. This is what I have done so far with no success.

Spark plugs (Bosch)
Ignition coil (old one had hairline cracks in it)
Engine flush (liquidly engine detox) and oil change
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Coolant temp sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
Removed and cleaned injectors (not professionally cleaned but flushed them thoroughly with carb cleaner while cycling them on and off and removed any deposits)
Cleaned throttle body
Cleaned intake with Liquimoly Petrol engine intake de-carb
Full tank of Liquimoly injector cleaner
Checked ECU wiring for water damage
Checked injector resistance at cold (#1-12.5ohm,#2-13.1ohm,#3-12.5ohm,#4-12.4ohm)
Can't find any obvious vacuum leaks


Has anyone come across similar issues with this engine or model that could give me any advice? Any help would be much appreciated.

Changing fuel pump is almost never necessary.
I have to tell to everybody my full story (17years P307, 1.4 gasoline KFU engine, 150000km) : everything is started with very minor engine hesitation and lack of power. But after many part changes I understood the Peugeot TRICK: when the exhaust gas checking system had fault like lambda sensor 2, and there were different problems in the engine working - hesitation, stopping -, when I solved one supposed problem, like injectors, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, the engine always worked well for about 100 km. It was the re-learning phase when the ECU-control of exhaust gas quality was hiddenly turned off. When the ECU turned back the checking, the problem appeared again.
My story with a KFU petrol engine: fuel path error code. I cleaned the injectors. The car was OK for about 100km. Then the problem reappeared. Same code. I read that the injectors have a lifetime about 150000km. OK, I changed them to new ones. The engine was OK, but only for about 100km. I checked the fuel pump visually, it seemed to be OK and I read that the pump is almost always good. Then the engine started well every time, but the rev dropped fast. I read the error code, it was different, but fuel path related. I read in a forum, that this symptom is typical if the fuel pump relay is wrong. OK, I changed the relay. The Engine became super. But only for about 100km. Then I read a different error code and I figured out that the lambda sensor 2 is wrong. (I changed lambda sensor 1 about three years ago). I changed the lambda sensor 2, and finally the car is ok, I can enjoy it and I fulfilled about 400 km. So the sensor was the main problem, but I know that one of the injectors was clogged, I saw it when cleaned it by the spray.
So the conclusion: If the not absolute important exhaust gas checking line is wrong - lambda sensor 1, cathalisator, lambda sensor 2 ( and may be other not necessary sensors needed for the working of the engine) then after a part change the ECU turns off the not necessary control process and learns the optimal settings, mainly the optimal timing of the injectors. After the learning period the ECU switches back and start to check these extra, exhaust gas (green environment) related values also and the problem may reappear... tricking the workers of the service shop, and those self-made service persons, like me.
As a conclusion, after 150 000 km the two lambda sensors, the fuel pump relay and maybe the Magnetti Marelly injectors worth to change. They have a lifetime. I suppose the air amount sensor has also.