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Discussion Starter #1
I've tried to do homework here, but nothing is helping so now asking for a wiring diagram that matches my engine.

Car overheating in normal running situations when weather is warmer than normal and AC on min. Can really boost the temp by putting load through engine (heavy right foot/climb hill). (On gauge it's climing to the last white line before the red area - 110??)

Don't believe the second fan is cutting in, as I don't hear any pitch change and it doesn't run on (especially when hot as thats when I'm listening out for it).

Read up online, and looked in haynes and both say that I should have two relays as it's a two speed fan. I brought a new relay, despite the Pug dealers saying that I don't have one, duely took the bumper off and found (to horror) no relay, but some weird relay/resistor in one block.

Have replaced this combo block (pn: PA 6.6 - GF30 other text: G. CARTIER 8 241 001) but nothing has changed.

Believe that (from reading on various forum posts) that there may be some radiator sensor/switch too, but as the haynes is shot and I can't find wiring diagram, I can't verify this and don't know what I'm looking for.

Any help is greatly appreciated - am willing to pay/travel for Planet software diagnostic and live near Southampton.

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #2
No one?

I have spoken to the Pug dealers this morning (and they happily want to see my car) however I'd like to rule out the bits I can before I bite the bullet, re-mortgage the house and take the car there.

The parts guy on the phone to try doing the temp sender (1338C1)? From reading other threads - including one this morning it would appear as if that sensor failure would shoot the gauge right to the top, which it's not doing on mine, again more of a smooth climb.

Does anyone know if there are any other sensors/switches etc that play a part in the control of this fan?

Reluctant to take to garage as recently paid lots for EGR+Turbo and trying to save money.
 

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The relays are a known issue, but it could be the fan motor or wiring.

Hopefully someone local to you has Planet and can test the relays and the fan's two speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cheers for that - I thought it could be the relay - especially after looking at the diagram in the haynes - but it would appear mine doesn't have the two green relays, but one "all-in-one" style box.

I've replace this, the wires and connectors all look good (I used to have an old mini, so know what corroded, knackered wiring looks like) - no idea about the other end of them though.

I didn't know if there were any other trips that could prevent the second fan from running? I am aware of a temp sensor - but I believe that there is only one mounted just behind the thermostat on mine.

There is another weird kind of switch/solenoid thingy on the top of the rad with two wires on it - is this related?

Any pics/diagrams appreciated.

I have PM'd someone to see if they can help with PP, but as of yet, no reply.

Thanks for the reply though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just found some more info - tracing out the wiring diagram and noticed that on the high speed fan circuit, the wires change from CM04A to CM04E (via EC04A) and then from CM04E to CM15A (via IC08A 6V NR)

If there are any good pug auto electricians out there ready to help, I have wallet and am ready to pay for help/advice as at the moment this is annoying and I can't seem to find the faulty area.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bit the bullet, took to a garage (Guys of Fareham) and they replaced the radiator after finding that it was cold on one side (without fan) and warm on other.

Took car home - and still over heating.

Up till now no water loss, no water in oil/oil in water and apart from over heating everything ok - however head gasket now keeps cropping up.

Are these cars prone to it? and is it easy/cheap to get fixed?
 

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is the water pump leaking? if the belt had snapped it would overheat all the time.

seems like its cooling ok but cant take huge loads. normally running at speed shouldnt need the fan to cut in.
 

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Sorry I can't help, but sounds like you've got a bit of a 514itter there mate. I'd take it to a Peugeot specialist, there's plenty around.
 

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Any update

Hi do you have any update on this as I have the same problem with mine now with the same engine and everything . I have tried loads of bits and pieties on it with no luck so could do with a bit of help.
Many thanks
Brett
 

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No that's all new with the modified system that does away with the degas valve and the coolant by pass valve . Even fitted a new water pump and cambelt last weekend thinking that it could of had the blades come off the pump
 

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Is it actually overheating?.....You can check this with an IR gun ..not expensive and you can be certain.....If it is the fan should come on.....if it isn't then I would look at electrical.
My fan has cut in only 4 or 5 times in the seven years of ownership and in extremely hot weather........it shouldn't be required at speed or hills...that's just my experience.
 

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These engines do not normally overheat to be honest also as stated above the fans rarely come on in normal driving even climbing hills

There must be something blocking coolant flow somewhere blocked rad or pipework

Does the heater blow hot air if not then there is an airlock somewhere

For engine to stay cool heater must work.

Its unlikely to be headgasket as they rarely need done but if it is the headgasket you will have lots of pressure in coolant system and cap will blow off when you remove it !!
 

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Hi mate thanks for the reply.
I have changed the radiator already and the heater is working spot on but still the gauge goes up over the 90 mark and sits at about 97 all the time when on the motorway but as soon as you back off it drops to about 89 on the computer.
I am starting to think headgasket now as there is nothing else to change on it lol.
Many thanks
Brett
 

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Mate I had a situation where I also replaced my cooling system only to find after tearing my hair out (what's left) that one NEW part was faulty.....I would personally look at what reliable said.....probably a slight blockage of sorts...check the plumbing again...bleed the system again....do all the simple things first....reliable has a great saying.....don't assume anything
 

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Hi mate, my 407 keep showing the break stop sign on the dashboard with this inscription. Break system defective. But the breaks still function fine. I have hard it look at but they just can't fined the fault. Please can any one help


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Mate I had a situation where I also replaced my cooling system only to find after tearing my hair out (what's left) that one NEW part was faulty.....I would personally look at what reliable said.....probably a slight blockage of sorts...check the plumbing again...bleed the system again....do all the simple things first....reliable has a great saying.....don't assume anything
Mmm I have tried everything mate including two different thermostats I am thinking it has to be a head gasket fault as the water is all flowing spot on and the symptoms have not changed since doing any of it mate . I know what you mean as I have my own workshops and normally don't have any problems with this sort of thing I have even used genuine parts to see if that helps at all mate but no change at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Long and short I sold the car.

Looks like it was the head/head gasket in the end - mayo in the oil cap - no other fault, cooling system bled, rads changed, fans checked.

IMO Sell the car now - you'll be looking at a lot for hg replacement and if the head is cracked/warped even more - they looked like a biatch to do too.
 

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Your not wrong mate it's 18 hours to remove and rebuild head and I am thinking it really ain't worth the time and trouble to do it .
Well thanks for letting me know anyway mate
 
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