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Hi all,

I'm posting this on behalf of my Mum's recently purchased 307, I'll try to be as detailed as possible. I didn't recommend she buy a 1.6HDI after looking through the Peugeot forums with the application of that engine in 407 and 307, especially with the mileage of ~178k and previous owner undergoing servicing himself. She doesn't do many miles and trips are usually short, 3-4 miles, not the best for the FAP. The car is a 54 plate SW. My Dad's got a 407 2.0HDI and we've previously had 3 406 2.0 HDI's, so I'm reasonably informed on various problems involving the newer engines like the EGR, DMF, FAP etc particularly in the 1.6 with turbo oil supply and the frequency/type of oil change required. The car was bought around the 1st of June.

All was well when buying the car, but the day after she drove up from Somerset to Manchester to pick me up from University. The car was apparently fine for most of the trip however after exiting the motorway apparently some black smoke was visible from the exhaust and threw up the engine management light, plus the cooling fan stayed on after switching off. I knew straight away there was an issue with the FAP regenerating, and suggested a more vigorous driving approach for a while to see if that cleared it off. Over the next few days, when driving vigorously the car repeatedly failed to regenerate, with the cooling fan remaining on and the rear windscreen heater also being on whilst driving. This persisted on the journey back down to Somerset, so the car has presumably covered ~500 miles trying to regenerate. Now that I've finally looked under the bonnet to check the oil, as expected it is over the max line with so many failed regenerations so an oil change is in order. The oil itself didn't appear odd in viscosity or smell, but the level was above the plastic tip of the dipstick. The engine bay looks reasonably clean in it's condition, with no spilled oil to be seen or carbon deposits around the turbo which I've seen in other images. Whilst under the bonnet, the first thing that struck me was a large portion of the intake was missing, and because of the spacing I presumed an air filter was missing too , but I've since learnt that this is for some reason placed all the way back at the bulkhead out of sight.



The car has gotten worse recently when driving, with the car entering limp mode, cutting out at a certain rev or heavy throttle inputs meaning you have to pull over and restart. I've been telling my Mum since day one the issue needs sorting, but she's not got much spare cash and the Antipollution Fault can be a bit of a money pit.

My first guess was the Eolys tank was empty, given the mileage of the car it could be expected and my Mum obviously didn't know to ask the previous owner about that, given he undertook servicing himself. I'll check the service history documents later. After looking under the car I was surprised to see there was still a reasonable amount of fluid remaining, I don't know if there's a minimum level because there appears to be a marker at exactly the current level it's at, but I've seen tutorials on refilling the tank and they were mostly completely empty.



(This image is upside down for some reason on here, but here's a link to the source: https://cldup.com/F-Gk0gj6ZP.JPG )

The only message that's shown up on the multifunction display to my knowledge is 'Antipollution Fault', but I think if it were at a minimum it would give that as a separate message? With this being the case I've suggested the best place to start would be with the fuel filler cap sensor, although I keep saying the car really needs to be hooked up to PP2000 to get some fault codes but that means visiting a Peugeot approved garage. Oddly, the small pipes running from the FAP, which I'm guessing are related pressure differential sensor, are held on with cable ties so if these are damaged this could also be contributing to the FAP being incorrectly diagnosed as blocked. The car was giving off black smoke apparently on it's first display of the Engine Management Light, but this is no longer the case which would make me think the FAP has been cleaned, although if no Eolys is being injected it could've just removed a small amount of particulate and that's what was seen. The car has since given the Antipollution Fault every time it is started.

The last surprise it threw at us was a disconnected plug on the pipe running after the intercooler, it has a lead with a brown plastic connector attached to it. The plastic that makes up the plug is broken, so it's not latching onto the other side and was completely disconnected. I thought this may also be contributing to limp mode if it's some kind of pressure sensor after the turbo, although it looks more complicated like an actuator rather than just a sensor. I've attached an image for all issues mentioned, does anybody know what this connector is so I can order a new one?





Many Thanks, and I'll try to update this thread as we try to solve the Antipollution Fault. There's nothing I hate more than opening a thread looking for a solution only to see that the original poster didn't return after solving the issue.

Zach
 

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Hi,
Good detailed post!
First thing is yes, the first part of the air intake from around the front left light cluster to where you can see it dangling at the moment is missing. I'd imagine it wouldn't make a huge difference, a clean air filter is more important as long as the pipework is connected to it properly. You have to remove the windscreen scuttle to get to it.

I have the car on diagnostics with Peugeot Planet. Check the Planet map for a member nearby (or I'm down that way at the beginning of August). If there is plenty of eolys fluid left then if could have been refilled but the counters in the ecu not reset (requires Planet) or a load of other things, such as a faulty fuel cap sensor, duff glow plugs etc. Planet may help to point you in the right direction.
As for the plug, its for the air doseur (as Peugeot call it) and is part of the wiring harness so I would say a scrappy would be the best place to source one, along with the section of air intake. Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, never heard of the air doseur before so that was very useful! Found on another forum page ( Intercooler bypass valve - Page 2 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com ) that this could be related to FAP issues, so it's disconnection (possibly the whole time) could be one of the contributing factors to it not regenerating.

As far as Planet goes, the nearest user hasn't been active since January, so I've taken a look on Frenchcarforum.co.uk and found somebody relatively close. That'll be the next port of call.
 

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Sorry, yes I should have also put the 'normal' name of intercooler bypass valve too! If this is set open and then disconnected then it will stop regens. But it's my understanding that it closes when stopping the engine so should be in the closed position so I'm guessing the ecu expects feedback it's not getting.
 

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No worries, air doseur was very useful, I tried multiple possible names I could think of involving intercooler etc. but I found it straight away under that name.The plug was loose when I reconnected it and shook off pretty much as soon as the engine had started, making an awful noise, so I'm guessing it came off when driving because of the vibrations. If it were open when it came off it wouldn't be able to close again even when the engine shut off, is that right? So it could've been preventing regens this whole time?
 

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first things first looks like its had a new turbo at some point so its either worn out due to age. or oil supply issues

the next thing is if the oil levels too high it may be burning it

does sound like theres some issues with regeneration

with the eolys not far from empty you have a few choices

1) fill fluid at £100 and fix all the issues associated
2) remove dpf and forget
 

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Yeah, now you mention it the turbo does look new compared to everything else in the engine bay. Got hold of the service history and it mentions nothing about turbo replacement in there. The previous owner changed the oil and filter with a clean flush frequently enough at under 10k miles each time, however... the last oil change was about 17k ago so along with the high level will be replacing ASAP.

Don't think we'll delete the FAP because we don't have any nearby Planet (or presumably Galletto) users, and can't do it ourselves, don't have any Windows computers. Probably fill the tank, check for fault codes and DIY clean the filter, which looks like it's already been done because the heat shield is missing and the previous owner seems to have had a habit of removing parts and not reattaching them.
 

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That's weird.... i can think of only two ways for the Oil level to be high:

* It was overfilled.

* Water/Diesel into the oil circuit

Have you removed the oil cap and took a good look at it ?
 

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That's weird.... i can think of only two ways for the Oil level to be high:

* It was overfilled.

* Water/Diesel into the oil circuit

Have you removed the oil cap and took a good look at it ?
if the car has a dpf filter then when it is doing a regen it injects diesel into the engine on the exhaust stroke some of this diesel goes past the piston seals into the oil this is fine for diesel as it evaporates but these days diesel contains biodiesel and this does not evaporate and can make the oil level raise slightly
 

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Still, the difference (in L) between the minimum and maximum of the dip stick should be around 1L. If the oil level is say, 50% higher than the maximum, it means that around 0.5L of diesel is stuck in the oil. Even considering regen workflow, isn't this too much ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The car's done a lot of motorway miles (~500) trying and failing to complete a regen, so I'm guessing that's why so much diesel has gotten in. I'd say the level is about 20% above maximum.
 

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Just to update this thread, limp mode got so bad recently that the RAC had to be called to tow home. The problem was diagnosed by the engineer as a faulty EGR, although still waiting on the full fault code rundown from them.

The next day, we spent a good hour trying to find the EGR to unplug it, such a pain to get to on the 1.6HDI compared to the 2.0 which we have in the 407. Took it out for a drive, no limp mode, so ordered a blanking plate and fitted it. Didn't take so long the second time when you work out where the valve is. Still no limp mode, however the antipollution fault remains. I'm guessing this could still be the EGR as well as other things, if it's stuck open and blanked it will still produce a fault won't it? Also, when ragging it about after unplugging the EGR, the fan didn't come on, whereas it did previously, so this may have solved the DPF issue.

Of course, when you fix one problem another arises... The gear lever has never felt great in the car, you can be in one gear and wiggle the lever so much it feels like it's in neutral, not sure if this is a common trait to this car. I'm currently learning to drive and my Dad's 407 gearbox feels like it's made of rubber compared to the Focus my instructor has. Now however, the car does not want to select some gears, particularly second. This is only the case when first driving the car though, once the gearbox has 'warmed up' after about 10 minutes, you can select all gears fine. I'm guessing it's not a clutch issue, first is fine to select all the time, and the fact it disappears after it's warmed up would make me thing not a synchro problem either. Could this be the gearbox oil, or maybe the linkage? It's odd how this problem has suddenly appeared after being towed and fiddling with the EGR. At first I thought the heat exchanger in the EGR might be responsible for quickly warming something up, but not read any problems with anybody else blanking?
 

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Very common 1.6 problems, bring it to me and I can diagnose it all and tell you your best course of action.

First guess as to cutting out would be either a fuel pressure problem (ECU cuts engine for safety) or an EGR fault (EGR opens and closes really quickly and stalls the engine).
 

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such a pain to get to on the 1.6HDI compared to the 2.0 which we have in the 407.
You should see the 2.0hdi on the 307. Unless you're very good working blind, it's a drop-the-engine job.

The gear lever has never felt great in the car, you can be in one gear and wiggle the lever so much it feels like it's in neutral, not sure if this is a common trait to this car.
Common in PSA, it feels like theres a high-low selector like in trucks... really wiggly.

once the gearbox has 'warmed up' after about 10 minutes, you can select all gears fine.
Gearbox oil change wouldn't harm it... take a very good look the the oil that's comming from the gearbox.
 
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