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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening Madv

I have been keeping an eye on this great site for a couple months since i bought my peugeot 307 hdi 110 ( 2006 ) 56 with 135k

2 weeks after i bought the car i got the dreaded anti pollution fault but after my brother cleared the fault codes it was fine for 2 weeks until ( under heavy throttle ) the same fault came back.

Although when the warning light comes on and it goes into limp mode, i can pull over ( turn off car and restart ) and once again i have full throttle although warning light is still there.

I have been waiting until my Lexia3 interface arrived and once i managed to sep it up on my laptop ( evenually with the help from a few sites ) i have checked the faults over for myself with the 4 fault codes below.

P1351 - permanent fault - pre/post heating relay circuit, relay controlled and spark plugs not suppied.

P0234 - intermittent fault - Turbo pressure regulation, turbo pressure measured to high

P0100 - intermittent fault - Flowmeter signal air flow measured abnormally high

P1462 - intermittent fault - EGR valve learning


If you need any other information on the above fault codes or screen shots, please ask and if the following information is helpful to you ?

Filter load = 48%
average regeneration on the last 5 = 231.00km
last regeneration = 231.00km
weight of PEF additive = 126g
remaining additive 1476.00ml

I currently do town miles through the week with no problems, and motorway miles every other weekend where it may go into limp mode.

Thankyou in advance for any advice which may help with my problem.

You need a glow plug or two first. To check them in the head remove the wiring and use a multimeter to test the resistance between the tip and the cylinder head any resistance below 10 ohms and not open circuit usually means the plug is ok but there has been one ocassion that it was not the case - it was a Ford diesel
This will allow the engine to regenerate the dpf filter , This is what is needed first.
update below
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Today i gave the car a full service ( because i am not sure when the last owner did one )
Cant believe how much of the car you have to take off just to change the air filter :nono: While i was there ( and after googling where the heater plugs were ) i put in a full set of 4 as Madv suggested to get rid of the P1351 fault code. Also i changed the fuel filter, oil filter and oil also.

Took me most of the day but glad i checked the car over. Air filter was the blackest one i have ever seen, and when checking for the carbin pollen filter ( there wasn't one in there ) so will sort that.
When checking the oil level after refilling, and wiping the end with a rag i snapped the end off the dipstick ( so can someone suggest where to get one from )

I put planet on the car to check and then clear the faults but i noticed there were many more P faults, although i assume its because i had removed some connections etc. I have cleared the faults and took the car for a 30 mile drive to which i was very impressed with the increase in power, smoothness and the increase in MPG :lol:
Just to finish off i will put planet on it again in the morning to check for any faults and to see if the car had done a regeneration while i was out ( been out long enough today so better call it a day and keep the wife happy )

Any suggestions on the dipstick.. breakers yard or would the ones on ebay be the correct ones ?

I so love this site :thumb: very helpful and learning something new every day :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Didn't want to start another topic as this is still related to my 307 hdi 110

checked for any faults this morning with planet and all clear,
but while learning my way around with planet i noticed there was a setting configured as 307 9hz engine, os2 Pef and z112 injectors without additive ECU

Surely if my car as an additive tank shouldn't it be set to with additive ECU

Reason i ask is that when configured to with additive i get the following fault codes
P1445 - Additive system quantity of additive to high
P1446 - Critical level of additive in the reservoir


I have since put it back to without additive ECU until advised but am just about to check the additive although on my first planet check, i had last regeneration of 231.00km, weight of PEF additive =126g and remaining additive = 1476.00ml

:confused:

edit:

Mine seems to be a black container so cant see whats left in there.. its not the supporting bracket unless i take it conpletely off and shake it ?
 

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Instead of starting a new topic, I'll try here first. My car is also showing 1351, Pre heating relay circuit, Relay stuck open. I can hear the relay clicking, but yesterday after doing my own full service @ 130k (including fixing the airbox! Some a**ewipe has broken it trying to get it out without taking the wipers/scuttle off) so the car now runs beautifully, but won't cold start. It used to fire up straight away, but now labours on the starter at the best of times, and took 10 secs or so to start this morning.

Question is, do I need plugs, or is the relay stopping them from working. This fault won't cancel (non planet diag) and the MIL comes on and off when it pleases (Mind you, having a 20 cm hole in the airbox probably didn't help the MAF code) so there are 3 or 4 faults coming up

P0409 EGR valve stuck during programming
P0238 Turbo pressure, Short circuit to positive or open circuit
P0100 Flow meter signal, airflow not plausable

Plus the 1351. I'll have the car apart in the next few days (again!) to check plugs, but where is the relay? Ambiente air temp this morning about 6.5 degrees, do other peoples cars struggle to start at this temp?


Oh yeah, Eolys fuild replaced 17k miles ago for reference
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had the same 1351 fault code but since replacing the glow plugs which are beneath the air filter box on my 56 plate 307 the P1351 fault has not reappeared.:D

the heater relay on mine is screwed onto the front of the fuse box on the passengers side of the engine.. close to the head light..

i have read that on 307, the glow plugs dont heat up unless its below freezing or something like -16 ( sure someone can confirm either way ) so i would think thats not the cause of your cold starting.

I changed mine because of the P1351 fault and i was not sure when they were last changed or if i indeed had some which were not working, i have yet to test the old ones. They were a bugger to find and just as fiddley to change.. a mirror was very handy indeed.:thumb:

i will post a seperate message on my last and only P fault below.. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update on my progress

This weekend i do my usual run up the M4, Before heading off i checked with global test on planet and no error faults although the filter load was 74% and the last regeneration was some 351km ago ( i guess its because of town driving and cant get up to any high constant speeds )

I had driven about 60 miles, driving it between 2500rpm and 3000rpm and accidentally over 70 on a few occasions :lol: with no problems at all, i was just pulling off the M4 and up towards the slip road and to the roundabout. After pulling off from the roundabout and putting mt foot down in second and then third, i had the anti pollution warning once again and car in limp mode.. luckily i was coming upto a layby so pulled in. As normal i could turn the engine off, take key out and start it again with full revs.

I thought i'd get my planet out to check what faults came back and it was only P0234 - intermittent fault - Turbo pressure regulation pressure measured to high
I'd thought i check the filter load as it showed 74% before heading off to find it now showed only 2% :D, i took a print screen at the time which is below if it uploads.







any advice
 

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Sounds like the vanes in the turbo are sticking in the full turbo position therefore at high revs when the turbo vanes are supposed to open (less turbo) yours are staying closed which equals overboost and throws up the fault code there are plenty spray on turbo cleaners give it a go won't cost much
 

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Discussion Starter #11
P0234 - intermittent fault - Turbo pressure regulation pressure measured to high

Sounds like the vanes in the turbo are sticking in the full turbo position therefore at high revs when the turbo vanes are supposed to open (less turbo) yours are staying closed which equals overboost and throws up the fault code there are plenty spray on turbo cleaners give it a go won't cost much
I drove back the 100 miles earlier with no problems although i did drive it steadily with no excessive throttle. Thing is it didn't do a regeneration so its filter load is back upto 60% after driving around last night and the mileage today.
Does the filter load have to be a certain level for it to regenerate or is it the high RPM that kicks it in. Never liked the idea of forcing a regeneration with the car on the drive with it revving at 4000rpm for 7 to 10 minutes using planet.

What is the procedure for turbo cleaning with the correct spray? It worth a go and can only benefit the turbo right?

thanks all for your help so far :thumb::thumb::thumb:
 

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An additive ECU is a seperate unir. Reset the additive parameters and have a look at the additive tank at the back to see the level.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
An additive ECU is a seperate unir. Reset the additive parameters and have a look at the additive tank at the back to see the level.
If you are referring to my earlier post planet told me remaining additive was 1476.00ml and since filling up it is now 1472.00ml

I have been trying to find the time and weather to check the additive tank as it is my next job. As mentioned there was a setting on planet which told me it was configured as 307 9hz engine, os2 Pef and z112 injectors without additive ECU.
Surely if my car as an additive tank shouldn't it be set to with additive ECU

Reason i ask is that when i configured to with additive i did get the following fault codes
P1445 - Additive system quantity of additive to high
P1446 - Critical level of additive in the reservoir

I have since put it back to without additive ECU until advised and i have no fault codes at the moment. In fact the car drives great after its recent service ( just concerned the filter will get choked up/blocked leading to other problems )
I'll check the additive tank asap to confirm whether it is indeed empty and maybe thats why someone before me had it set to without additive tank.

thanks again for your reply MadV
 

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Hi Sean

Just wondering if you were ever able to sort out this problem. I am having the P1351, P0409, P0238 problems as well. The car seems to run fine.

Would have sent you a PM but not get enough posts.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

Instead of starting a new topic, I'll try here first. My car is also showing 1351, Pre heating relay circuit, Relay stuck open. I can hear the relay clicking, but yesterday after doing my own full service @ 130k (including fixing the airbox! Some a**ewipe has broken it trying to get it out without taking the wipers/scuttle off) so the car now runs beautifully, but won't cold start. It used to fire up straight away, but now labours on the starter at the best of times, and took 10 secs or so to start this morning.

Question is, do I need plugs, or is the relay stopping them from working. This fault won't cancel (non planet diag) and the MIL comes on and off when it pleases (Mind you, having a 20 cm hole in the airbox probably didn't help the MAF code) so there are 3 or 4 faults coming up

P0409 EGR valve stuck during programming
P0238 Turbo pressure, Short circuit to positive or open circuit
P0100 Flow meter signal, airflow not plausable

Plus the 1351. I'll have the car apart in the next few days (again!) to check plugs, but where is the relay? Ambiente air temp this morning about 6.5 degrees, do other peoples cars struggle to start at this temp?


Oh yeah, Eolys fuild replaced 17k miles ago for reference
 

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The 9HZ engine with a Bosch ECU does not have a separate additive ECU. The main ECU has this built in, hence that setting in planet being correct.
 

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The 9HZ engine with a Bosch ECU does not have a separate additive ECU. The main ECU has this built in, hence that setting in planet being correct.
As above only HDI's with EDC15 ECU (mainly 2.0 and 2.2 HDI) have separate additive ECU.
Later models eg 1.6 HDI with EDC16 ECU have additive control function in the engine ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi Sean

Just wondering if you were ever able to sort out this problem. I am having the P1351, P0409, P0238 problems as well. The car seems to run fine.

Would have sent you a PM but not get enough posts.

Any help would be great.

Thanks
With my 1.6 HDI, i had the P1351 code, i replaced the heater plugs which were at the back of the engine and a bit tricky to get to :mad: but i've not had the P1351 since.. this was over a year or 2 ago.
 

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With my 1.6 HDI, i had the P1351 code, i replaced the heater plugs which were at the back of the engine and a bit tricky to get to :mad: but i've not had the P1351 since.. this was over a year or 2 ago.
It would be great if it is just the plugs but I don't think I am that lucky. I am hoping replacing the EGR and a good clean might do it. If it comes to reconditioning the turbo think I might just have to sell it for whatever I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As far as the EGR, i've had EGR fault codes for some time and probably are still there if i check with planet although it doesn't give me any warning lights and the car runs fine. I have taken it off and cleaned a few months ago with some wd40 and made sure it opens and closed ( which it did ) and i still get the code about sticking.

I was also having fault codes about turbo pressure which was connected to me having the anti-pollution warning light and the car going into limp mode under heavy throttle but since i read some of the topics on here, i drilled 4 8mm holes in the FAP filter and gave it a good jet wash, i've replaced the center cartridge and vanes in the turbo as it was cheaper than a complete turbo and i haven't have any warning lights or limp mode since. Its been trouble free since then ( about 6 months) i've had my EGR blanking plate for a couple months but still got to fit that. suppose to help keep the oil cleaner, run smoother and improve mpg although mines around 55mpg for the last 5000 miles :)

I can only give you my experience with my car as i understand everyones is different.
 
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