Peugeot Forums banner

21 - 30 of 30 Posts

Registered
Joined
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Thanks Old Pug 馃憤馃檪

Re the "creaking noises" - first, let me say I'm a complete cherry with these axles, so I'm in no way doubting what you say, and of course, it's the obvious thing on these, so, not by way of arguing, but offering further description which may confirm what you suspect:

- Nothing sceintific, but I can't see anything more than 0 - 1 degree camber looking at the rear wheels from behind

- I can get no play whatsoever out of the radius arm - I've even had someone waggle side to side and in and out ("check wheel bearing style") while I put my fingers across the join between the arm and the tube, and I can't even "feel" anything...

- the "creaking noise" sounds to me not like "metal on metal" but rather like dry rubber bushings that are too tight being twisted and the sensation of the radius arm "juddering" up and down (but not in a notchy, metallic way I would expect from a failing bearing) - hense why I suspected the (obvious old and knackered out shocks - you can tell by driving it they are cooked. I could well believe they are empty.

- the creaking doesn't happen when the car has it's feet on the ground, during normal driving, only when it's jacked up and the weight of the wheel drops it down.There are no "graunching noises" or knocking from the back end (which is what I would expect, but then as said: I'm a cherry on these)

From my point of view the shocks need changing - while I'm taking them half off to see if the creaking disappears, I may as well just throw a pair of new ones on anyway. (She will need them whatever the axle is like) and the bushes also. Both are preferable to an axle rebuild at this time of year...

However, if what I've written makes you feel even more certain, perhaps it's worth me trying to drop the swing axles out while they are still creaking and regrease them as a temporary measure, rather than wait until the bearings destroy themselves from running dry?

Be interested to hear your opinion.
Sorry, I just remembered what it reminds me of: using a hydraulic jack that has a weeping seal, and the jack creaks as it creeps downwards ...
 

Registered
Joined
1,991 Posts
If you do rebuild the axle with new bearings - take the time while its apart to add the grease nipple modification so the bearings are greaseable in the future.
 

Registered
Joined
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
If you do rebuild the axle with new bearings - take the time while its apart to add the grease nipple modification so the bearings are greaseable in the future.
Definitely Mr Lee - if I could work out a way of doing it without risking swarf I'd do it now.
If I am not too late and can drop the arms out and re-grease the bearings I'll do it.
I thought about the possibility of counter sinking into the tube, then making a 1mm hole through with a magnetised drill and my fingers crossed - a hole just large enough to force EP90 or 80w90 oil through so the axle tube was 5mm or so deep in it. Oil isnt HT grease, obviously - but it's better than nothing...
 

Registered
Joined
969 Posts
Removing the radius arms means dismantling the anti roll bar and the torsion bars. The torsion bars are splined, and control the ride hight.
As Mr Lee has discussed, the problem with these radius arm bearings is lack of lubrication. I`ve known them to completely disintegrate so the tyre rubs on the inner wing. Then the opposite, the bearing and the arm seizes solid, no movement up or down, or side to side.
As I mentioned before, with the shocks removed, the body safely supported, try moving the arm up, it should feel nice and springy and silent. All you are doing is twisting the torsion bar.
 

Registered
Joined
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Removing the radius arms means dismantling the anti roll bar and the torsion bars. The torsion bars are splined, and control the ride hight.
As Mr Lee has discussed, the problem with these radius arm bearings is lack of lubrication. I`ve known them to completely disintegrate so the tyre rubs on the inner wing. Then the opposite, the bearing and the arm seizes solid, no movement up or down, or side to side.
As I mentioned before, with the shocks removed, the body safely supported, try moving the arm up, it should feel nice and springy and silent. All you are doing is twisting the torsion bar.

I'm actually coming round to thinking you're spot on, Old Pug. I spent a lot of time reading up on them last night, and such things as the torsion bars and the anti-roll bar making them feel ice and without any play, like mine.

I'm currently under the front today (just drained about a litre of what was once oil out of the gearbox. yes, only about a litre..) but tomorrow I will drop the shocks off and see what I get. It's a bloody awful design, not only could it have been simpler without the bearings (to my mind it's not much more than a king-pin laid on it's side - bushes and grease nipples..?) but to put bearings in with no means of re-lubricating them beggars belief.
Still, I expect it saved them 3鈧 a car or something...

Thanks for both yours and Mr Lee's help, really appreciate it 馃憤馃檪
 

Registered
Joined
969 Posts
I gave up overhauling these axles years ago.(I`m retired now) Because everything is rusted and corroded,it takes for ever to strip down. Its not just a simple task of fitting new bearings. The radius arm shaft will be damaged and in extreme cases the main axle tube gets damaged as well. Changing the centre bearings is almost impossible without this demon Peugeot special tool.
Its best in the long run to fit a reconditioned axle. We have a number of companies in the UK. I found this place, is it anywhere near you? https://rearaxle24.com/product/rear-axle-peugeot-306/
 

Registered
Joined
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
I gave up overhauling these axles years ago.(I`m retired now) Because everything is rusted and corroded,it takes for ever to strip down. Its not just a simple task of fitting new bearings. The radius arm shaft will be damaged and in extreme cases the main axle tube gets damaged as well. Changing the centre bearings is almost impossible without this demon Peugeot special tool.
Its best in the long run to fit a reconditioned axle. We have a number of companies in the UK. I found this place, is it anywhere near you? Refurbished Rear Axle Peugeot 306 - rearaxle24.com
Im in Germany Old Pug - but yes, I'd already decided to go the off-the-shelf route - to begin with my garage isn't wide enough to pull torsion bars out 馃槃 cost over here (no exchange) is around the 315鈧 mark including delivery - 70 bucks off for exchange, but I can't drive anywhere without an axle so thats out of the question... 馃檮

However........

I did a bit of tidying up at the front end while I was changing the wheels today, and when I'd finished that, I went to do the back wheels and thought... "I'll drop the end of the damper off like Old Pug said."
So I did
And no creaking 馃お馃槃
No grinding, absolutely nothing, silent, smooth and free and I can bounce it up and down with no problem. I made a video - if I ever work out how to upload it, I post a link.
So, my main thought is to keep it OK until the spring, when I can strip the thing apart outside with room to work, and see what I've got bearing wise - which hopefully will be not too bad. To that end, I'm going to drill myself a 1mm feed hole and using a syringe try and get half a litre or so of 75w/80 inside the axle tube, which should swill around and at least stop the bearings drying out if they were thinking about drying out over the winter. It's a gamble with the swarf angle, but I figure swarf from a 1mm hole will be minimal, and should sink while the oil levels out and should find it's way to the bearings.

What could possibly go wrong... 馃槃
 

Registered
Joined
969 Posts
15.JPG
That`s a relief for you Sinbad. Your on the right track getting some lubrication to the bearings, well done. I would suggest drilling two holes about 10cms in from each end of the main tube. Then the drill will miss the bearing and the oil ( pour in loads) will get to both bearings. I`m sure you have seen images of the axle. Study this axle, I had stripped down on a rally car years ago, and you will see what i`m getting at.
 

Registered
Joined
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
So the Peugeot giveth, and the Peugeot taketh away...

On Monday evening I went to nip to the shops before the closed, and.... the the alternator light was flickering dimly 馃榿
I did no more that parked her back on the drive until the morning.
In the morning, I did what I'd decided to over night, cleaned the main earth points under the battery, and then lay a "ring main" of 1.5mm earths around the engine compartment from one earth point to the back scuttle, both wings, into and out of the ECU box having earthed the ECU then back to the other earth point. Resistance across the engine being 1, I decided if that was the reason, it wasn't now.
Started the car, 11.5 v across the battery.
Dropped the positive off, and undid and remade the two main connections to the alternator with a dab of electro-grease. Reconnected everything, started up...
11.5v.
Something has been making a slight chattering noise from within the serpentine belt group, so, it being cold enough to freeze the wotsits off, and knowing I had a new belt anyway, I got a length of tube and started spraying W40 directly behind the components run by the serp. The tensioner pulley and the alternator both fell silent in that order.
Check volts: 14.5, no battery light on.
the problem is still there - intermitently. A good hard rev up to 3500RPM will usually clear it, so my guess is that the alternator is on the way out. I have no way of knowing, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's the original, so after 22 years it's done it's fair share.
A new one is on the way, plus pulley / tensioner, and hopefully by mid week next week I will have a decent days weather, during which I've decided I may as well change the timing belt as well while I'm crawling around that side of the engine.
The back axle / dampers etc... we'll see how the weather is at the weekend...

The gearbox is also giving me earache, with a whine in third and a lesser one in second. I suspect the clutch release bearing sn't that great either, but that can (touch wood) wait. Meantime I'll try making up a syrup of 75w?80 with some grease in it, and add 300mm to the 2ltrs of fresh oil I put in the gearbox. If it shuts things up a bit, it's all good 馃憤馃槀

Here she is now (well, sunday) wearing her wheels I renovated for her and her new exceedingly underated and dirt cheap Imperial All Season tyres.
Slowly but surely, it's going in the right direction...

91441
 

Registered
Joined
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Bit of a Brain Pick here...

Trawling the depths of Kleinanzeigen (a free local eBay over here) and I found these two listings:
The first is to suit a 1993 1.4, and includes stuff like brand new heater blower and heater itself and the second is a brand new exhaust complete from a 1.8

The exhaust I could do with (the existing is pretty grotty in places, especially the back box) while the other parts are in the "handy to have" category - but if I can get them both for under a ton I'll be laughing.

Question is, will they fit on the 2.0..?
 
21 - 30 of 30 Posts
Top