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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
Just become the proud owner of a 1999 306 Cabrio 2.0Ltr I plan on bringing back to life.

I've found guides on how to rebuild the back axle (not sure if it needs it yet, the camber doesn't look too bad to me, maybe a degree or so out of vertical)

I did once find a long Peugeot-made video on replacing / fitting and checking the roof, but I can't seem to find that right now - but my main query is where to find information on the engine, and in particular the cambelt, which will need changing immediately as it run only 25000Km but been 8 years since it's last change.

I've Googled my tail off but I come up with nothing worthwhile by way of how toos or specifications, nor for that matter on front suspension, what to look out for - or usually suspect area for rust on these (although it appears fairly sound)

Can anyone help with links to these items?

Thanks

PS: The 306 forum on here is a dead link (for me) it doesn't show as a link or work in any way, so apologies if I missed stuff in there because I can't access it.


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It looks like you are looking for instructions for an XU10 engine. In your VIN you should have a 3 letter code (RFX, RFT, RFY, RFV for example). You may have an XU10J4Z or XU10J4R.

Citroën produced some Mechanic's Handbook pdfs which have quite detailed instructions (the 2001 version for the XM and Xantia), but unless you sign up to Servicebox they are hard to find online.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi, thanks for the reply 👍🏼

Got an engine code of 7 RFV

Tried signing up to and logging into Servicebox but it does nothing when I put the code and password in... 🤔
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, I disabled Adblock and got into Servicebox, and everything in there regards technical info - even the part numbers - is chargeable. They can Foxtrot Oscar...

90600
1601110199033.png
 

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Yours is a XU10J4R / L3 / RFV engine.

It would be worthwhile paying for an hours Service Box access & download / screen shot the required timing belt replacement instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yours is a XU10J4R / L3 / RFV engine.

It would be worthwhile paying for an hours Service Box access & download / screen shot the required timing belt replacement instructions.

Yeah, I think you're right - it just hacks me off having to pay people to help them sell their spare parts 😁
 

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To be fair to Peugeot - Service Box parts has been free to view for many many years ( at least 15+ to my knowledge ) & has been heavily used by many people across the globe over those years.

Not many other car manufacturers have allowed free access ( to anyone with a dodgy made up log in ) to there official online parts catalogues & build info as Peugeot / Citroen has.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
"Not many other car manufacturers have allowed free access - "

we'll agree to differ on that but it is what it is - me whining won't change anything 😁

Based on XU10J4R / L3 / RFV and a quick Google, I'm getting that it's the 136 tooth variety, and a Dayco number 94714 I can cross reference from.

Does that sound about right?
 

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Pass - been 15 + years since I last tinkered with or owned an XU lump.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry for the German... this is from my go-to supplier and Febi my go-to manufacturer

It's 136 toofs - does the tensioner look correct? or do they change? *

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* If you could see the weather here you'd know why I'm not going outside to look 😲😂
 

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Febi Bilstein, as well as Gates & Dayco are all quality OE brands. Always fit the water pump, pully kit. Also I would advise that you fit a new crank pully as well.
When timing this engine you insert a pin through a hole in the pully into a location in the block. This pully has a rubber damper, with age the outer part (with the hole in) can move.
Its best to time it all up before you dismantle it. If all the pins line up correctly the crank pully is OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Febi Bilstein, as well as Gates & Dayco are all quality OE brands. Always fit the water pump, pully kit. Also I would advise that you fit a new crank pully as well.
When timing this engine you insert a pin through a hole in the pully into a location in the block. This pully has a rubber damper, with age the outer part (with the hole in) can move.
Its best to time it all up before you dismantle it. If all the pins line up correctly the crank pully is OK.

(Touch wood) I've never had bad luck with Febi - good bang for buck IMHO

Thanks for the tip on the pulley - are they easy to identify with no changes through the years or are they engine /year specific?

^ Dumb question - they must change with the timing belt ...

^^ not a dumb question 😂 just had a look and they key to the crankshaft and only the serpentine section is replaced.

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The crank pullies on those old XU10J4 engines
01100421603255.jpg
are all the same. I`ve just replaced the crank pulley on my wife`s 406 (same engine) I got a Fabi Bilstein one from Amazon for about £50, main dealers want over £100 !!
I`m sure Germany is the same as the UK. Just quote your vin or reg` number to a major parts supplier and they will come up with the correct part.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got a Fabi Bilstein one from Amazon for about £50, main dealers want over £100 !!
The same the world over... 👍🏼 back full circle to why I object to paying for Servicebox 😅


I'll have a look at it, and swap it out if it's showing signs of delamination - otherwise, it can go in The List for next spring ... but cheers for the heads up 😉
 

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If you've already signed into ServiceBox, then you can just load this link to get the Citroën Mechanics Handbook that I mentioned earlier.

It's a zipped pdf of 2.7meg and it's free.

Look for the "Checking and setting the valve timing" section and RFV engine code specifically. It's for mechanics, though, and doesn't mention the process of removing timing covers, accessory belts, engine mounts, etc.

Be warned though, PSA insisted on using an electronic tensioning system back then (a SEEM meter), so the tensioning will have to be a bit of guess work without this meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got that now, thanks - looks like about all I need, the stripping down looks OK with a bit of take it slow and forethought.

Any particular recommends on spark plugs and gaps on these engines or just follow the book?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Bit of an update, as I've been quite busy 😋
She's through the TuV - having replaced the discs and pads on all four corners, plus the hand brake cables, both track rod ends and drop links.
The tattered and torn roof has been replaced with a better one I picked up for a song (50€!! and a 2 hour drive across Germany)
Cambelt I've bought but held off doing as I don't have room in the garage at the moment and sod doing it outside in the current weather - the existing one is a Conti and looks almost like new, and given I know it's only done 26K Km (as of now) I've crossed my fingers and eyes and let it be for now. In my experience even old abused ones rarely just snap, they'll normally give you prior notice, sooo... touch wood (famous last words)
I've got four new tyres going on replacing the over-sized old ones, which brings me to a question regarding the back axle mounts, which are the originals as far as I can tell, and feel like it... I know they're supposed to self steer a bit, but... the rear shocks also look original, and when she'sjacked up and down they (at least I assume it's the shocks?) give out the most horrible creaking noises. The axle beam itself looks good - no camber, no play - but the shocks and mounts need doing or I'll end up ruining the new tyres in short order.

So my question: is it possible to drop the axle enough to replace the bushes, without undoing all the brake lines? (which I really don't want to get into right now)
Looking at it, it looks possible to loosen the rear mounts, tilt/drop the front end of the axle, replace the front mounts, then go the other way and tilt / drop the rear end of the axle and do the rears..?

Anyone have any thoughts on that...?
 

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Bit of an update, as I've been quite busy 😋
She's through the TuV - having replaced the discs and pads on all four corners, plus the hand brake cables, both track rod ends and drop links.
The tattered and torn roof has been replaced with a better one I picked up for a song (50€!! and a 2 hour drive across Germany)
Cambelt I've bought but held off doing as I don't have room in the garage at the moment and sod doing it outside in the current weather - the existing one is a Conti and looks almost like new, and given I know it's only done 26K Km (as of now) I've crossed my fingers and eyes and let it be for now. In my experience even old abused ones rarely just snap, they'll normally give you prior notice, sooo... touch wood (famous last words)
I've got four new tyres going on replacing the over-sized old ones, which brings me to a question regarding the back axle mounts, which are the originals as far as I can tell, and feel like it... I know they're supposed to self steer a bit, but... the rear shocks also look original, and when she'sjacked up and down they (at least I assume it's the shocks?) give out the most horrible creaking noises. The axle beam itself looks good - no camber, no play - but the shocks and mounts need doing or I'll end up ruining the new tyres in short order.

So my question: is it possible to drop the axle enough to replace the bushes, without undoing all the brake lines? (which I really don't want to get into right now)
Looking at it, it looks possible to loosen the rear mounts, tilt/drop the front end of the axle, replace the front mounts, then go the other way and tilt / drop the rear end of the axle and do the rears..?

Anyone have any thoughts on that...?
Hi Sinbad,Yes its possible to change these mounts, the large ones need a bit of care but if you support the body and then lower the axle with a good trolley jack. Best to do it one side at a time, with the small rear mount removed, do the large front one.
One thing concerns me? you say there is horrible creaking noises. This could be the radius arm bearings needle rollers dry and seizing, rear shocks don`t make noises. Its simple to remove a shocker bolt and then move the radius arm up and down to see if the noise is still there.
RPPEKIT27.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Old Pug 👍🙂

Re the "creaking noises" - first, let me say I'm a complete cherry with these axles, so I'm in no way doubting what you say, and of course, it's the obvious thing on these, so, not by way of arguing, but offering further description which may confirm what you suspect:

- Nothing sceintific, but I can't see anything more than 0 - 1 degree camber looking at the rear wheels from behind

- I can get no play whatsoever out of the radius arm - I've even had someone waggle side to side and in and out ("check wheel bearing style") while I put my fingers across the join between the arm and the tube, and I can't even "feel" anything...

- the "creaking noise" sounds to me not like "metal on metal" but rather like dry rubber bushings that are too tight being twisted and the sensation of the radius arm "juddering" up and down (but not in a notchy, metallic way I would expect from a failing bearing) - hense why I suspected the (obvious old and knackered out shocks - you can tell by driving it they are cooked. I could well believe they are empty.

- the creaking doesn't happen when the car has it's feet on the ground, during normal driving, only when it's jacked up and the weight of the wheel drops it down.There are no "graunching noises" or knocking from the back end (which is what I would expect, but then as said: I'm a cherry on these)

From my point of view the shocks need changing - while I'm taking them half off to see if the creaking disappears, I may as well just throw a pair of new ones on anyway. (She will need them whatever the axle is like) and the bushes also. Both are preferable to an axle rebuild at this time of year...

However, if what I've written makes you feel even more certain, perhaps it's worth me trying to drop the swing axles out while they are still creaking and regrease them as a temporary measure, rather than wait until the bearings destroy themselves from running dry?

Be interested to hear your opinion.
 
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