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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
Need to change the said door throught damage.

Anything difference in the model doors like do they all have electric windows or if
not can the internals be swapped?
How about the door cards, all the same?
Any other issues?
Cheers
:cool:
 

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Some are manual window & some are electric.

Some have normal central locking & some have deadlocking.

Interior door card trim will be different material / pattern between different spec.

Just get a door the same paint code as your car & be prepared to swop internal bits over.

The window mechanism is riveted in to the door so you would have to drill it out & rivet the replacement back in if you need to change it.

You may end up swopping the wiring loom over & also the rear door latch, all depends on what spec the replacement door you source is.

Get new door trim clips as these normally break when you remove the interior door trim card.
 

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A 2nd pair of hands is useful for holding the door while you remove the bolts securing it to the car.

If you can open the window so the helper has a good grip on the top of the door it really helps.

Remove the lower hinge bolts first & refit last.

Remember to check all the door equipment like remote locking, electric window & speaker work before finally refitting the door trim card.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got the door, see what you mean regarding a helper, I didn't think it would be that heavy.

Correct colour but manual window.

Probably be best to swap all the internals so if I disconnect the wiring plug from the door on my car, will it upset the ECU?

Cheers
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Car doors are a lot heavier then you would think due to all the fittings & strength built in to the door along with the side impact bar. A manual window helps as you can open the window & get your assistant to hold the top of the door while you bolt it on.

IIRC the rear glass has a couple of bolts along the bottom edge that hold it to the window lifter mechanism, the glass will need to be removed to then allow removal & refit of the electric window mechanism.

Also check the door latch / lock motor is the correct one for your car, maybe just swop your original one in to the replacement door.

I very much doubt it will upset the BSI unplugging the door.

Make sure you have all the necessary clips & rivets before you start swopping bits over & some strong duct / tank tape to reseal the moisture sheet behind the door trim card as you may have to disturb / cut small access flaps to get inside the door cavity.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
All done.:thumb:

The manual winder door had a few differences like the finish of the inner door opener, also the outer waist strip and the means of attaching the wiindow winder mechanism to the glass but these were all easy to swap. Regarding the window fixings in the donor door I found using a very small socket pushed on the lugs worked a treat, I did have a photo showing this but have lost it.
The glass did not need to be removed but before removing the power door it needs to be powered down enough to access the two fixing bolts along the lower edge of the glass.
The wiring loom needed to be swapped.
I managed to save enough door card clips that didn't break.
The powered door card with it's window switch swapped over.
Outer door handle and lock swapped over.
The moisture sheet bead of sealant remaind sticky enough to reuse.
Removing the steel and alloy rivets from the winders and speaker mounting frames was best done slowly with a hand drill as a power drill tended to spin them and they were all replaced with alloy ones.

My friend copied some relevant pages from the earlier car manual which helped a lot.

:cool:
 
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