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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I wonder if anyone could help me please. I purchsed a Peugeot 207 SW S 08 recently bought and after a day or two the key fob door locking and glass boot suddenly started to work then not work. I only have the one key fob and the door locks and unlocks fine with the key. It looks like someone has put a new case on the key fob so I replaced the battery and checked the buttons and solder with my mag headset and all seem OK.

I also made sure the cheap new casing is clicking the buttons as sometimes these cheap chinese cases are utter garb but its working fine.

Just to say, I am fine with very fine soldering and button replacements but this has caught me out as all 3 buttons can work then suddenly stop.

I gave the board of the fob a gentle clean as well with some contact spray as this can release sticky buttons but no joy.

The car has had a new fusebox installed by a reputable company at a cost of £465 a few month back so I am beginning to wonder if it's anything to do with that or the fob itself.

Anyone else had a key fob that sometimes will, sometimes wont ?


Oh and one last thing, if you put your ear to the fob you can hear a slight squeal type noise coming from the fob.

Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is common and it's normally the battery contacts that don't line up
Thanks , I bent them and a small manicure file to the copper contacts then I reflowed with a fine soldering iron most of the legs on the mobo and it's working fine. It was either what "trustme" said or a dry joint but a result either way

thankyou
 

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we have the same, sometimes the fob works other times it will only work if held next to the ignition barrel, am still waiting to see if anyone comes up with a fix.

i have a old battery radio and it picks up the signals from fobs accross most the fm band, can get a nice double pulse from the peugeot fob from 2m away so guess the fobs fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well I thought I had it sorted but oh no I'm not that lucky. It worked fine for a short while then it's back to working randomly. One minute it will lock perfect but the fob wont unlock the car then like magic it will lock/unlock OK. One thing I did notice was the glass window for the boot (middle button on remote) seems to work the vast majority of the time regardless of the lock/unlocking so this is leading me to think the problem might not just be with the fob but with the central locking itself.

What really annoying is, in the time it took me to write the reply I nipped back out and the fob worked perfect without a hitch. There's nothing worse than when you just can't put your finger on it. If somethings broke then you can normally buy the part/s and replace but with this....?

Could it be anything with the sensor in the car ? would this help if I did it ?

Procedure for Initialising the BSI after key learning
1. Disconnect the diagnostic tool.
2. Put the driver’s window down, lift the bonnet and ensure all
equipment is switched off.
3. Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the
ignition.
4. Wait for 3 minutes, disconnect the vehicle battery and wait
15 seconds.
5. Reconnect the vehicle battery, wait a further 10 seconds (do
not open doors.)
6. Switch on the side lights through the driver's window.
7. Switch on the ignition and check system’s functionality.
8. Hold lock button on key down for 10 seconds.
9.remove key open & close door test central locking system
10. Start the engine and complete the system’s check.
Failure to follow this procedure could result in incorrect operation of many
BSI related items.
It did take three attempts following this procedure before it worked.
 

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did you replace the battery in the fob, also when you reflowed the solder did you use any flux if not then you may have a dry joint, you can use plumbers flux but make sure you clean it off with some solvent after as it can cause problems
 

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Does the interior central locking button (padlock symbol) work reliably? If not, you probably have a defect in the CL system. If yes, it is probably what I said above, the receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah I use proper liquid solder non acidic the stuff you use on phones and I cleaned it all off. I'm OK with fine soldering I've done lots over the year.

The company that did the fuse box replacement said it was a fault with the lights and this should not have any bearing with the locking/unlocking.

I went over it again just, this time I really took my time and added some solder to the pads that the prongs from the battery push against and added more solder to the battery connector 3 legs. I also cut a small thin piece of card and stuck this under the battery so it puts more pressure on the pins.

As it stands it's working all three buttons. I did the reset by disconnecting the battery side lights on then and holding the unlocking button in 10 secs. I dont tbh , would the cold affect it in anyway ? it was iced up this morning when I tried it prob one of the coldest mornings yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep, it's a learning curve right up to the end and by then you'll not give a monkeys anyway !.

I tried it a few times now and it works fine , it's gotta be the fob and a dry joint or something. What makes me think that is, the boot glass opens regardless so and when I reflow it it works fine for .......as long as a piece of string
 

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Yep, it's a learning curve right up to the end and by then you'll not give a monkeys anyway !.

I tried it a few times now and it works fine , it's gotta be the fob and a dry joint or something. What makes me think that is, the boot glass opens regardless so and when I reflow it it works fine for .......as long as a piece of string
maybe a capacitor on the remote that is faulty, when its warm it work, when its cold it does not work

you could get a used second hand key and swap the chips over and see if that works or even a new key with same pcb
 

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Discussion Starter #14
maybe a capacitor on the remote that is faulty, when its warm it work, when its cold it does not work

you could get a used second hand key and swap the chips over and see if that works or even a new key with same pcb
You know that might not be a bad idea trustme. I also have an UP 48A I use to use some years ago for reading eeproms, you've got me thinking there.

Which chip holds the info for the car ?. I could lift it, take a dump (that's the chip reading not the toilet) and put it back then prog another chip and relay it. Then, any probs just swap out the barrel.
I'm going to go to check all the caps with my cap meter today
 

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You know that might not be a bad idea trustme. I also have an UP 48A I use to use some years ago for reading eeproms, you've got me thinking there.

Which chip holds the info for the car ?. I could lift it, take a dump (that's the chip reading not the toilet) and put it back then prog another chip and relay it. Then, any probs just swap out the barrel.
I'm going to go to check all the caps with my cap meter today
you cant ready it as it is encrypted so you need to crack the encryption
 

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Discussion Starter #16
you cant ready it as it is encrypted so you need to crack the encryption
But you could move the chip over to a new blank key and it would work ?. I looked and you can buy a blank one same board for £30. Lifting and replaying takes 5 mins tops
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
An auto locksmith came out to make a key today but he said he couldn't connect to the car. The car has been off road for 2 weeks but I do start it everyday he said he needs 12v but it was just under. He used a booster he couldn't get it to connect.
He did cut the key but was unable to program it. I do know the car had a light problem and the fuse box was found to be at fault. A reputable auto electrical company replaced this so I am wondering is this has any bearing on this or if there's more than meets the eye with this car as the demister does not work.

Will an mobile auto electrician do a diag on it to find if everything's OK ? what kind of cost are we talking
 

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An auto locksmith came out to make a key today but he said he couldn't connect to the car. The car has been off road for 2 weeks but I do start it everyday he said he needs 12v but it was just under. He used a booster he couldn't get it to connect.
He did cut the key but was unable to program it. I do know the car had a light problem and the fuse box was found to be at fault. A reputable auto electrical company replaced this so I am wondering is this has any bearing on this or if there's more than meets the eye with this car as the demister does not work.

Will an mobile auto electrician do a diag on it to find if everything's OK ? what kind of cost are we talking
i have programmed them on 10.5v before and used booster to start
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i have programmed them on 10.5v before and used booster to start
I know it's a minefield question and you obviously know your stuff with your experience what do you think would be the reason why he couldn't connect to the car ?, bare in mind the new fuse box.

I'm thinking of taking it to an auto electrician to get the electrics checked out as It's got me thinking there might be something quite not right with the cars electrics.
 
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