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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all.

I am looking to replace my existing almost 20 year old 1.8L petrol car with one a little newer and hopefully one that will save a bit of £, but at a initial purchase cost that won't break the bank.

Initially I wandered eBay and the like, looking for something that fitted the bill and was ok looks-wise. One of the cars I was drawn to was a 207 hatchback and so I did a little reading of reviews and such, on places like parkers and autoexpress.

To save the most in terms of road tax the obvious choice is a diesel with low emissions, saving around £180 a year over my existing car and so I was checking listing for those models. However in doing so other better spec and/or higher performance models appeared in view, making me question if I would not be better off sacrificing some of the road tax cost saving and opt for one of these instead. Current favourite spec is the GT, which when I went looking for them has confused me further by adding the 207CC into the mix. Has to be said I like the looks of the CC, just not sure how much the extra weight impacts on performance and economy.

So, what are the 207s (petrol or diesel) like to live with? Is the gearbox, like some reviews mention as being notchy or vague really that bad or is it just the motoring journalists are so used to a perfectly slick performance gearbox that something more normal seems bad?

Is there anything I should be checking for when test driving or inspecting a 207?

Thanks for reading.
 

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Water ingress to the electrics is a well known issue on 207s. Have a scroll through the 207 section to see what comes up most often.
 

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Hi v-man, i would get some diagnostic kit before going to view any of the prince engined versions, i have had some trouble due to the timing being marginally astray, which in turn, caused an occasional limp-mode. the prince engine is quite efficient when it is working to 100% of its abilities, any less, you will want to drop it off a cliff. as for the "CC" being marginally heavier, when mine runs properly, the output is more than enough to bring a smile to my face (and, i can fit tall things in it with the roof off!!) and, check EVERYTHING, rear brakes are a pig, always check the vehicle's mot history (several free places on the web!) and if the vehicle has advisories, ask if they have been fixed / rectified before parting with your funds. if they haven't, they could be used as a bargaining tool. in my opinion, the opportunity to get the roof off on any non-rainy day far outweighed any sexy looks of the hatch, but, i've not owned a tin-top for over 30 years (i'm old!!) best of luck in your search. p.
 

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Hi v-man, i would get some diagnostic kit before going to view any of the prince engined versions, i have had some trouble due to the timing being marginally astray, which in turn, caused an occasional limp-mode. the prince engine is quite efficient when it is working to 100% of its abilities, any less, you will want to drop it off a cliff. as for the "CC" being marginally heavier, when mine runs properly, the output is more than enough to bring a smile to my face (and, i can fit tall things in it with the roof off!!) and, check EVERYTHING, rear brakes are a pig, always check the vehicle's mot history (several free places on the web!) and if the vehicle has advisories, ask if they have been fixed / rectified before parting with your funds. if they haven't, they could be used as a bargaining tool. in my opinion, the opportunity to get the roof off on any non-rainy day far outweighed any sexy looks of the hatch, but, i've not owned a tin-top for over 30 years (i'm old!!) best of luck in your search. p.
Thanks for reply.

Strangely only an hour or two ago I was reading your thread where the timing was the root cause of your issues. Hats off to you for accepting that you were wrong and for posting back, maybe it will help someone else searching for a solution.

Anyway, back to the topic at hand.

I tend to use either the gov website for checking MOT history or vehicle smart app on android. The latter being quite handy as it keeps a history of the cars searched for on it, allowing me to check back easily without having to retype reg no's. The basic faults that cars fail for defies belief, its almost like the owners don't even notice that wipers don't wipe or washers don't squirt.

Never had a convertible, not had the inclination (until now) and always thought they would be "too needy" for daily use or too darn expensive to buy in the first place.

Not sure how old you are, but I am what I think is the wrong side of 50.
 

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Hiya, yep, i'm the wrong side of 50 too, the convertible thing started way back when i got fed up with being a taxi / designated driver. Having worked in the motor trade for the fat end of half my life i have driven a great many cars, trabant to bentley, honda beat to porsche 911 race cars!! Tin tops are no easier to own than convertibles, especially now the "cc" is common. If you still need back seats and "need" a pug, try the slightly later 308cc's. They seem to be less pricey than the 207 and still come with a turbo engine, some even have 6 speed boxes!! (And neck-warmer seats!! Ooooh, luxury) whatever you decide on, pug 207 or 308, golf or eos, renault migraine or the ford f*ck-ar5e, (not keen on fords) most open tops were originally hard tops so you will experience scuttle shake and the handling wont be quite as precise. Thats a trade off for being able to get a sun tan in a traffic jam!!. P.
 

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Hiya, yep, i'm the wrong side of 50 too. Tin tops are no easier to own than convertibles, especially now the "cc" is common. If you still need back seats and "need" a pug, try the slightly later 308cc's. They seem to be less pricey than the 207 and still come with a turbo engine, some even have 6 speed boxes!! (And neck-warmer seats!! Ooooh, luxury) whatever you decide on, pug 207 or 308, golf or eos, renault migraine or the ford f*ck-ar5e, (not keen on fords) most open tops were originally hard tops so you will experience scuttle shake and the handling wont be quite as precise. Thats a trade off for being able to get a sun tan in a traffic jam!!. P.
Thanks Paul.

I had seen some Pugs have 6 speed boxes, but it sounds like they need more gear changes to keep moving and the fuel economy is not improved over 5 speed box.

I can probably cope with the reduced handling a CC brings, I am moving from a 19 year old car built on a mid 90's platform after all.

Had spotted a 207cc GT for sale, complete with tan leather and had planned to go view this week, but it sold over the weekend sadly.
 

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Hi, i have the 1.6thp with the tan leather, really nice to drive, occasional creak from the roof but now i have sorted the engine out i am gonna keep it for a couple of more years. The best thing you can do when viewing a 1.6 petrol is to take a bluetooth obd plug and a full copy of torque pro. You can check the live fuel trim for highs and lows and, if the long term fuel trims are more than 10% either way, dont buy it!! They are generally a good car. They just need "good" owners!!
 

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Hi, i have the 1.6thp with the tan leather, really nice to drive, occasional creak from the roof but now i have sorted the engine out i am gonna keep it for a couple of more years. The best thing you can do when viewing a 1.6 petrol is to take a bluetooth obd plug and a full copy of torque pro. You can check the live fuel trim for highs and lows and, if the long term fuel trims are more than 10% either way, dont buy it!! They are generally a good car. They just need "good" owners!!
I had intended to take my clone ELM327 adaptor and connect to Torque Pro. Have ordered a new adaptor which is stated as working with FAPLite, which I hope to use too.
 

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hi, excellent, i wish i'd done that when i purchased mine. would have bought something else!! on the turbo's, something else to "look" for is the turbo oil return pipe on the top of the turbo, sometimes covered by a "heat shield" the ends are banjo fittings and, in order to assist in their fitting, the banjo ends are sealed with a silicon sealer internally, this allows movement (poss so it can be installed on different engine set-ups). the seals leak, both ends, don't even consider trying to bung it up with more silicon, it will just leak. it's about a 6 hour job plus parts (about £35 + exhaust seals), the rear brakes are a pain, on any low mileage (but older) cars they might never have been replaced, they will be rusted in! good luck in your quest, there are some nice ones out there. p.
 

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hi, excellent, i wish i'd done that when i purchased mine. would have bought something else!! on the turbo's, something else to "look" for is the turbo oil return pipe on the top of the turbo, sometimes covered by a "heat shield" the ends are banjo fittings and, in order to assist in their fitting, the banjo ends are sealed with a silicon sealer internally, this allows movement (poss so it can be installed on different engine set-ups). the seals leak, both ends, don't even consider trying to bung it up with more silicon, it will just leak. it's about a 6 hour job plus parts (about £35 + exhaust seals), the rear brakes are a pain, on any low mileage (but older) cars they might never have been replaced, they will be rusted in! good luck in your quest, there are some nice ones out there. p.
Has your experience been that bad?

I will bear the oil return pipe in mind, thanks.
 

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Hi, mostly, i love the car but it has been more of a pain than most! The oil return pipe should have been my cue to walk away but i am kind of dumb sometimes!! (Most times) the research i did before buying lead me to believe that there were no issues, sadly, the shite dealer had an on-site mot tester who basically lied on the mot. I dont think he did anything more than read the mileage and the previous mot info and stuck a ticket on it. The rear brakes were down as worn but not affecting braking. When i replaced them
20190226_174308.jpg
how dangerous were they? And i had just driven 150 miles home, then 400 miles to cornwall and back, so, thats my lesson learnt!!
 
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