Hello from Sweden. I found this thread through extensive googleing. Hope I can get expert help now.
My 206 1.6 16v has exactly the same problem, temp gauge running into max (red zone).
What has been done:
-thermostat housing inkl termostat change (3rd tempsensor in thermostat because i beliebed it was the problem)
-new coolant inclusive air is away in the coolant
-i found out, one of the wires from the sensor is going into the ecu. that wire has been changed. I guess the second one goes to a common earth?
-I only found one earth, going from minus on the battery to the top of the gearbox. -> seems to be ok. I guess though there should be more earth points?
-The two relays in the front at the cooling fan, i checked them yeasterday, looked bad, lots of corosion, cleaned them and took the car for a ride. measured tempreture as the tempgauged was between 90 degC and the red zone, 90degC into the radioator and 68 out, on the cooling hoses.
-the fuse in the fusebox for the coolingfan is ok.
-I also faked the temp tempsensor (green one at the thermostat housing) with a resistance. it showed 70 degC in the instrument panel an run without problem.
What else can I check?
I red about a blue second tempsensor? where is this one?
Can the problem be the instrument housing in the car?
I ordered two new relays and will test them as soon i have them.
You may have a problem with the coolant pump. They can seize up or corrode away. The system may be working correctly, but if the coolant flow is inadequate it will not be able to overcome such a restriction in hot weather. If you have not replaced the timing belt and coolant pump for some time, it might be an idea.
alright, I forgot to mention, coolant pump+termostat+coolantreservoir was changed by the previous owner winter 20/21 (I have receipts for that) So of course there was already problems with the car before I bought it….
Belt I could change, but I cant believe that the belt causes that problem.
About the blue temperature sensor, where is it sitting and what does that sensor measure, is it used by the relays for the fan?
alright, I forgot to mention, coolant pump+termostat+coolantreservoir was changed by the previous owner winter 20/21 (I have receipts for that) So of course there was already problems with the car before I bought it….
Belt I could change, but I cant believe that the belt causes that problem.
About the blue temperature sensor, where is it sitting and what does that sensor measure, is it used by the relays for the fan?
No, I only mentioned the belt because it's a good idea to do it if you have to get at the pump.
The blue temp sensor screws into the cylinder head at the rear end of the engine - the short side opposite to the end with the oil filler. It is listed as "0242 86....118 deg BE -BLUE". I believe it is a temperature sensitive switch, which closes at 118 deg to give an overheat warning.
Has the radiator been flushed to establish that there is good flow through it?
Thanks. I dont think the workshop has flushed the radiator, defenetly something I could do. yeasterday, the car was driver and a little but smoke was comming from the coolant reservoir, first signs om „really“ going warm…. :-(
I will borrow two new relays and mount the today.
Which of the two tempsensors gives the temperature to the instrumentpanel in the car? blue or green one?
So i flushed to radiator with a special coolingsystems cleaner. I also opened the screw at the firewall, to be sure that all air is out the system.
-> still running hot
What I though noticed, I took of the hose at the bittom of the radiator, so coolant was flushing out of that hose and the radiator. After no coolant came out more, I filled the system up again but according to the shop i should fill up with 7 liters but only managed to fill up with max. 5 liters. strange….
So:
-termostat changed
-green tempsensor changed several times
-new cable from the green sensor to the ecu
-two new relays in the front
-radiator flushed
Previous owner changed already reservior, coolantpump and termostat.
Could the headgasket be the problem??
To buy a new coolantpump, I dont belive in that if i am honest.
What else can I do? Or time for junkyard? I am desperate… :-(
yeah, could one option…
started the car today, after loading it with one back, stop light was flashing and temperature in the red zone….
car has been parked over night…
What the f*ck???
how is it possible? could it be a ECU problem?
changing ecu to another want go? guess the immobilizer want ket the ca start, right?
Can still be thermostat sticking closed. A common problem, even with genuine parts from new. No bleed valve or vent on these thermostats. Replacing with new aftermarket versions are more reliable. Before fitting, drill 2 small holes (1.5mm diam) just within the inside diameter of the 'O' ring of the thermostat and another directly opposite. Refit thermostat with the 2 small holes at the top. It does not affect the engine running at normal operating temp and allows easier bleeding of the cooling system. Refill system with the bleeder at the top heater hose, before the hose enters the cabin, open until fluid is flowing freely. Close off and top up coolant header tank to correct level. Start and run. It should self bleed now.
Top up as necessary.
Another issue with these is a blocked transmission cooler which is in series with the cabin heater. Remove battery and support tray to access. Remove both hoses and back flush with water hose until clear. Flush the cabin heater core as well. Both ways, until clear. Refit all parts removed and refill cooling system as explained previously.
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My friend has a 206 petrol. His car works perfect until the temperature gauge reaches 90 C. After 90 C, the gauge shoots up to top (the red zone) and stop warning light keeps flashing. He waits about 20-25 seconds in idle and everything goes back to 80 C. Then he drives another 5 km. and the same story repeats. What do you guys think?
Thermostat. Replace it. It's sticking. Follow the fill and bleed procedure. Otherwise, before replacing thermostat, drill 2 or 3 small 1.5mm holes just below the 'O' ring seal outer rim of thermostat at 11, 12, and 1 o'clock, if 3 holes, and one more directly opposite at 6 o'clock. Shamfer the holes and fit the thermostat with the 2 or 3 holes at the top. When refilling the cooling system, bleed the air from the heater hose where it goes through the bulkhead until only coolant is flowing. close the bleed screw and top-up cooling system. Slightly overfill and start engine and run at fast idle. Top-up as necessary.
Any remaining air in the system will bleed out automatically without the need for the funnel attached to the coolant reservoir as described in the factory manual bleed procedure.
Yes, what I have described works just fine without any further drama. A recent 1100km round trip this summer, with steep hills using full throttle and high RPM as needed has proved this to me. The temperature did not exceed 95deg at any time, usually sitting at 85 to 90deg on the temp gauge. Warm-up time has been normal..Cooling system level has remained constant. I've been chasing this issue for 12 months or more. Now resolved. A happy man!
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