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206 Coolant temperature problem

114K views 35 replies 19 participants last post by  noddy-hol 
#1 ·
Hi all,

My friend has a 206 petrol. His car works perfect until the temperature gauge reaches 90 C. After 90 C, the gauge shoots up to top (the red zone) and stop warning light keeps flashing. He waits about 20-25 seconds in idle and everything goes back to 80 C. Then he drives another 5 km. and the same story repeats. What do you guys think?
 
#5 ·
Thanks for all replies. I have just talked with my friend and told all what you guys have said. I guess he should have mentioned before but he already changed the temp. sensor, cooling fan sensor (I don't know what it is) and thermostat. He says he doesn't stop the car and continue his travel while the gauge is in the red zone and STOP light is flashing. After 20-25 secs. the gauge drops on its own to 80s C. After driving about 5 km., again the same error and the same story. By the way, as soon as the gauge jumps to the red zone, fan kicks in (fast one).

So the possiblities,
1. The water pump faulty,
2. Replaced brand new temp. sensor is faulty,

What can it be else?
 
#7 ·
Viallinen termostaatin kotelo

Greetings from Finland. For me the same problem. Car Model 206 1.4 years in 2005. None of the stuff did not work, until you changed the thermostat housing. It is designed for abuse and the sensor is higher than the bleeder screw.

The new box has a sensor alemapana than the bleed screw and left the same problems I did, and temperatures from 90 degrees
 
#8 ·
if the car has air con switch it on with the engine running and with the bonnet open watch the cooling fan it should spin at low speed. If it doesn't the the low speed fan resistor is faulty common problem when the stop light comes on and the guage rises sharply can you hear the fan on fast speed if not check
the relays behind the ecclosed panel on the radiator for corroded or broken wires (another common problem)
 
#9 ·
The usual cause of this problem is deterioration of the wiring plugs to the three relays in a box under the bonnet slam panel.

To check this, remove the poppet fasteners on the slam panel and ease it out, then three T25 screws are removed and the trim panel disconnected on the offside only to gain enough access to the relay box. This trim panel is secured by two fragile plastic press fasteners which usually break when disturbed, I managed to repair mine with superglue, clamping the broken pieces together in a pair of Visegrips and allowing time to set.

Three more poppet fasteners secure the lid in the relay box, there are three relays inside, disconnect them all and check for corrosion, the lower one suffers worst, on my car it was starting to show signs of corrosion when the car was only four years old. I cleaned mine up and brushed Contralube electrical grease on the pins and sockets then brushed everything with black Waxoyl to seal all the connections and wiring.

Also check the resistor connector plug attached to the cooling fan while you have everything in this area dismantled, it's in an exposed location and suffers from road spray.

It's all a bad design, another "first" from Monsieur Peugeot's dedicated team of numpties!

Benny.
 

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#13 ·
The one I repaired last year, for the low speed resistor plug I got hold of a rubber boot to protect the back of the plug & also filled the back of the boot where the wiring enters with silicone sealant to stop the water getting in.

If you have the correct terminal tool its easy to remove the connector to allow the rubber boot to be fitted.
 
#14 ·
Hello mate what do you mean by a rubber boot?

My wires where that badly damaged due to the rain I lost the plug I had to cut the wires then put spade connectors on then fit the relay and I taped it up with installation tape all over it now because the wires are short it would not fit under the black cover I might need some more wire I'm more concerned it happens again as this is a temp fix
 
#16 · (Edited)
You could always go the whole hog & splice in a new loom.

The very early 206 with A / C used a separate loom for the cooling fan, I got so fed up with repairing the original loom on my 03 plate 206 I got hold of a new loom & spliced it in as a permanent repair.
I also changed the cooling fan plug as the one on the early loom is different plus the other half on the fan motor was corroded anyway.

A couple of mid repair pictures, sorry ive not got one of the low speed resistor plug I weather proofed - the car is with the GF - you can just about see the boot in the bottom picture.

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The 30 amp plug for the fan motor was marine spec so it should keep the water out.
 
#19 ·
Sorry for late reply on this post
My 206, has this fault temp gauge sudden rise, the relays mentioned here by Benny are not on my vehicle ?
On driving any distance the gauge suddenly shoots up and the fan comes on, I put the clutch in still driving switch engine off then back on gauge immediately drops, and all fine again, when this happens the engine is not overheating, therefore I presume can't be the thermostat as temperature would rise and then take time to cool, when switching engine off then back on seems like I am maybe resetting something electrical ?
Have changed the coolant temp sensor green plug & the engine temp sensor blue plug, and as I say can't locate the relays you mention, earth connections all good, any other ideas as this fault is very frustrating, thanks in advance Andy
 
#21 ·
Hello from Sweden. I found this thread through extensive googleing. Hope I can get expert help now.

My 206 1.6 16v has exactly the same problem, temp gauge running into max (red zone).

What has been done:
-thermostat housing inkl termostat change (3rd tempsensor in thermostat because i beliebed it was the problem)

-new coolant inclusive air is away in the coolant

-i found out, one of the wires from the sensor is going into the ecu. that wire has been changed. I guess the second one goes to a common earth?

-I only found one earth, going from minus on the battery to the top of the gearbox. -> seems to be ok. I guess though there should be more earth points?

-The two relays in the front at the cooling fan, i checked them yeasterday, looked bad, lots of corosion, cleaned them and took the car for a ride. measured tempreture as the tempgauged was between 90 degC and the red zone, 90degC into the radioator and 68 out, on the cooling hoses.

-the fuse in the fusebox for the coolingfan is ok.

-I also faked the temp tempsensor (green one at the thermostat housing) with a resistance. it showed 70 degC in the instrument panel an run without problem.

What else can I check?
I red about a blue second tempsensor? where is this one?
Can the problem be the instrument housing in the car?
I ordered two new relays and will test them as soon i have them.

I would really appreciate some help.

best regards from sweden
 
#22 ·
You may have a problem with the coolant pump. They can seize up or corrode away. The system may be working correctly, but if the coolant flow is inadequate it will not be able to overcome such a restriction in hot weather. If you have not replaced the timing belt and coolant pump for some time, it might be an idea.
 
#23 ·
alright, I forgot to mention, coolant pump+termostat+coolantreservoir was changed by the previous owner winter 20/21 (I have receipts for that) So of course there was already problems with the car before I bought it….

Belt I could change, but I cant believe that the belt causes that problem.

About the blue temperature sensor, where is it sitting and what does that sensor measure, is it used by the relays for the fan?
 
#24 · (Edited)
No, I only mentioned the belt because it's a good idea to do it if you have to get at the pump.

The blue temp sensor screws into the cylinder head at the rear end of the engine - the short side opposite to the end with the oil filler. It is listed as "0242 86....118 deg BE -BLUE". I believe it is a temperature sensitive switch, which closes at 118 deg to give an overheat warning.

Has the radiator been flushed to establish that there is good flow through it?
 
#25 ·
Thanks. I dont think the workshop has flushed the radiator, defenetly something I could do. yeasterday, the car was driver and a little but smoke was comming from the coolant reservoir, first signs om „really“ going warm…. :-(

I will borrow two new relays and mount the today.

Which of the two tempsensors gives the temperature to the instrumentpanel in the car? blue or green one?
 
#28 ·
So i flushed to radiator with a special coolingsystems cleaner. I also opened the screw at the firewall, to be sure that all air is out the system.
-> still running hot

What I though noticed, I took of the hose at the bittom of the radiator, so coolant was flushing out of that hose and the radiator. After no coolant came out more, I filled the system up again but according to the shop i should fill up with 7 liters but only managed to fill up with max. 5 liters. strange….

So:
-termostat changed
-green tempsensor changed several times
-new cable from the green sensor to the ecu
-two new relays in the front
-radiator flushed

Previous owner changed already reservior, coolantpump and termostat.

Could the headgasket be the problem??
To buy a new coolantpump, I dont belive in that if i am honest.

What else can I do? Or time for junkyard? I am desperate… :-(
 
#30 ·
yeah, could one option…
started the car today, after loading it with one back, stop light was flashing and temperature in the red zone….
car has been parked over night…

What the f*ck???

how is it possible? could it be a ECU problem?
changing ecu to another want go? guess the immobilizer want ket the ca start, right?
 
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