[ScottStJohn]

Hi,

I would like to hardwire a Viofo 129 Pro Duo to my 2020 LHD 3008 Hybrid 4. I have skimmed through the 22 pages of dashcam discussions on various models but cant find the answer to my questions.

For parking mode to work I need an "always on" source when the car is parked as well as a switched "accessories" source when the car is running.

1) Can anyone point me to an up-to-date fusebox diagram for this year and LHD model?
2) Does it have an "always on" unswitched source fuse?
3) If not, where can I find one elsewhere in the car?

Many thanks for your help

Scott

 

[nickc72]

Hi,

I would like to hardwire a Viofo 129 Pro Duo to my 2020 LHD 3008 Hybrid 4. I have skimmed through the 22 pages of dashcam discussions on various models but cant find the answer to my questions.

For parking mode to work I need an "always on" source when the car is parked as well as a switched "accessories" source when the car is running.

1) Can anyone point me to an up-to-date fusebox diagram for this year and LHD model?
2) Does it have an "always on" unswitched source fuse?
3) If not, where can I find one elsewhere in the car?

Many thanks for your help

Scott

Scott, I asked similar questions here. It's in a post in the last 2 months called dashcam recommendations or something. I need to do the same but haven't got around to it. Ideally I'd like to connect to a 12V supply which is ultimately connected to the main battery not the starter battery.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[ScottStJohn]

Scott, I asked similar questions here. It's in a post in the last 2 months called dashcam recommendations or something. I need to do the same but haven't got around to it. Ideally I'd like to connect to a 12V supply which is ultimately connected to the main battery not the starter battery.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Thanks for the prompt reply Nick.

Unfortunately a search didn't reveal to me the thread your referring to. Did it have the answer to my questions? If so can you be more specific in identifying it?

I totally agree it would make sense to have a 12v source from the main battery, though with "range anxiety" such a big issue manufacturers are reluctant to add anything that will decrease it, by running ancillary services. (I read a thread that claims Sentry mode on a Tesla reduces range by 1-2 miles per hour of parking). However the whole reason I bought a PHEV was to obviate "range anxiety" so this is not an issue and no argument for not providing a 12v source on the main battery in a PHEV.

Just FYI I checked that my vehicle reports 12.5 v in acc. mode at the cigarette lighter socket, 14.7v in electric mode (so the automotive battery charges the 12v battery without the ICE running), and I also got 13.4v in acc mode while charging ( so the main charger also trickle charges the starter battery).. This implies the 12v battery should always be fully charged for parking!

Scott

 

[nickc72]

Thanks for the prompt reply Nick.

Unfortunately a search didn't reveal to me the thread your referring to. Did it have the answer to my questions? If so can you be more specific in identifying it?

I totally agree it would make sense to have a 12v source from the main battery, though with "range anxiety" such a big issue manufacturers are reluctant to add anything that will decrease it, by running ancillary services. (I read a thread that claims Sentry mode on a Tesla reduces range by 1-2 miles per hour of parking). However the whole reason I bought a PHEV was to obviate "range anxiety" so this is not an issue and no argument for not providing a 12v source on the main battery in a PHEV.

Just FYI I checked that my vehicle reports 12.5 v in acc. mode at the cigarette lighter socket, 14.7v in electric mode (so the automotive battery charges the 12v battery without the ICE running), and I also got 13.4v in acc mode while charging ( so the main charger also trickle charges the starter battery).. This implies the 12v battery should always be fully charged for parking!

Scott

Scott

Many thanks. Just found it but dont know how to post the link.

Here's one of the replies...

Behind BSI is BFH3 relay and fuse box so here is description of permanent battery supply fuses and their relative pins on 33 pin connector:

F3 - 01 / 30A Sunroof
F4 - 20 / 10A Folding mirrors
F5 - 12 / 40A Rear electric windows
F8 - 08 / 40A Front electric windows
F10 - 09 / 20A Generic trailer caravan fusebox (so that might be Your choice)

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[nickc72]

Thanks for the prompt reply Nick.

Unfortunately a search didn't reveal to me the thread your referring to. Did it have the answer to my questions? If so can you be more specific in identifying it?

I totally agree it would make sense to have a 12v source from the main battery, though with "range anxiety" such a big issue manufacturers are reluctant to add anything that will decrease it, by running ancillary services. (I read a thread that claims Sentry mode on a Tesla reduces range by 1-2 miles per hour of parking). However the whole reason I bought a PHEV was to obviate "range anxiety" so this is not an issue and no argument for not providing a 12v source on the main battery in a PHEV.

Just FYI I checked that my vehicle reports 12.5 v in acc. mode at the cigarette lighter socket, 14.7v in electric mode (so the automotive battery charges the 12v battery without the ICE running), and I also got 13.4v in acc mode while charging ( so the main charger also trickle charges the starter battery).. This implies the 12v battery should always be fully charged for parking!

Scott

Forgot to add...

So I'm not sure the drive battery is charging the 12v starter battery. Some reports here suggesting that when the 12v battery falls below a certain charge as a result of non-ICE driving you cant put the car into electric mode because you need to use the ICE to drive the alternator to charge the 12V starter battery!

I didn't believe this at first but it just happened to me today!



Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[ScottStJohn]

Scott

Many thanks. Just found it but dont know how to post the link.

Here's one of the replies...

Behind BSI is BFH3 relay and fuse box so here is description of permanent battery supply fuses and their relative pins on 33 pin connector:

F3 - 01 / 30A Sunroof
F4 - 20 / 10A Folding mirrors
F5 - 12 / 40A Rear electric windows
F8 - 08 / 40A Front electric windows
F10 - 09 / 20A Generic trailer caravan fusebox (so that might be Your choice)

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Many thanks Nick,
I'm afraid I can't identify which fusebox this is referring to as the one I am looking at under the steering column in the picture below doesn't have any 20, 30 or 40 amp fuses only 3, 5, 10 and 15 ones so I am obviously not on the same page... Do you have any idea where I find the fusebox quoted i.e. "Behind BSI is BFH3 relay and fuse box"

To your other points... I have a towbar fitted and when the trailer is connected it disables the reversing camera.... so my fear is that drawing current from that circuit might cause problems. However I don't have a sunroof so that should be a safe source.

On the 12v charging issue I too have observed the car randomly starting the ICE when the main battery is close to fully charged, so a low 12v battery voltage is a plausible explanation, particularly as it often happens after sitting in the car park in acc mode waiting on my wife. (This begs the question why the voltage drops so quickly after a relatively short time in acc mode but thats a whole new thread) Sadly these electronically sophisticated cars with tens of millions of lines of code have many features and interlocks that are hard to understand. My previous Honda Insight Hybrid had an engine Stop/Start function that was disabled when on a hill start, ambient temperature too low, low battery voltage etc. This meant the function would appear to operate randomly from one traffic light to the next, dependent on the gradient, temperature or voltage. Very frustrating!

So one might speculate that this low voltage ICE "feature" is possibly simply a holdover from a cut and paste of the software from the pre-PHEV models and not actually necessary. I can only repeat what I observed with a voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter socket: 12.5v in acc mode, 14.7v in electric mode and 13.5v when 240v charging, so the evidence suggests the 12v system is charged while driving in electric mode and 240v charging.

Thanks again for your help Nick,

Scott

 

[nickc72]

Many thanks Nick,
I'm afraid I can't identify which fusebox this is referring to as the one I am looking at under the steering column in the picture below doesn't have any 20, 30 or 40 amp fuses only 3, 5, 10 and 15 ones so I am obviously not on the same page... Do you have any idea where I find the fusebox quoted i.e. "Behind BSI is BFH3 relay and fuse box"
View attachment 91457

To your other points... I have a towbar fitted and when the trailer is connected it disables the reversing camera.... so my fear is that drawing current from that circuit might cause problems. However I don't have a sunroof so that should be a safe source.

On the 12v charging issue I too have observed the car randomly starting the ICE when the main battery is close to fully charged, so a low 12v battery voltage is a plausible explanation, particularly as it often happens after sitting in the car park in acc mode waiting on my wife. (This begs the question why the voltage drops so quickly after a relatively short time in acc mode but thats a whole new thread) Sadly these electronically sophisticated cars with tens of millions of lines of code have many features and interlocks that are hard to understand. My previous Honda Insight Hybrid had an engine Stop/Start function that was disabled when on a hill start, ambient temperature too low, low battery voltage etc. This meant the function would appear to operate randomly from one traffic light to the next, dependent on the gradient, temperature or voltage. Very frustrating!

So one might speculate that this low voltage ICE "feature" is possibly simply a holdover from a cut and paste of the software from the pre-PHEV models and not actually necessary. I can only repeat what I observed with a voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter socket: 12.5v in acc mode, 14.7v in electric mode and 13.5v when 240v charging, so the evidence suggests the 12v system is charged while driving in electric mode and 240v charging.

Thanks again for your help Nick,

Scott

I'll try to find what fuse box it was referring to.

Agree on your other points. If the manuals were clearer then we know whether it is the design logic or as fault.

Nick

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[nickc72]

Many thanks Nick,
I'm afraid I can't identify which fusebox this is referring to as the one I am looking at under the steering column in the picture below doesn't have any 20, 30 or 40 amp fuses only 3, 5, 10 and 15 ones so I am obviously not on the same page... Do you have any idea where I find the fusebox quoted i.e. "Behind BSI is BFH3 relay and fuse box"
View attachment 91457

To your other points... I have a towbar fitted and when the trailer is connected it disables the reversing camera.... so my fear is that drawing current from that circuit might cause problems. However I don't have a sunroof so that should be a safe source.

On the 12v charging issue I too have observed the car randomly starting the ICE when the main battery is close to fully charged, so a low 12v battery voltage is a plausible explanation, particularly as it often happens after sitting in the car park in acc mode waiting on my wife. (This begs the question why the voltage drops so quickly after a relatively short time in acc mode but thats a whole new thread) Sadly these electronically sophisticated cars with tens of millions of lines of code have many features and interlocks that are hard to understand. My previous Honda Insight Hybrid had an engine Stop/Start function that was disabled when on a hill start, ambient temperature too low, low battery voltage etc. This meant the function would appear to operate randomly from one traffic light to the next, dependent on the gradient, temperature or voltage. Very frustrating!

So one might speculate that this low voltage ICE "feature" is possibly simply a holdover from a cut and paste of the software from the pre-PHEV models and not actually necessary. I can only repeat what I observed with a voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter socket: 12.5v in acc mode, 14.7v in electric mode and 13.5v when 240v charging, so the evidence suggests the 12v system is charged while driving in electric mode and 240v charging.

Thanks again for your help Nick,

Scott

Scott

Sussed out how to copy the thread URL.

It's here...

Fuse box hybrid4 for power to dash cam

Common sense dictates that there ought to be power available from the starter battery 12V and ideally some 12V derivative from the main battery on the hybrid4 2020. The latter would be really really great as that would mean 247 parking mode. Putting a dash cam or two in and really want to use...

www.peugeotforums.com

In 3008(2017).

Might help. As I say I didnt get round to it. Probably a January job for me so I'd love to hear of the solution you find as I'll just cheat and replicate it!

Nick

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[nickc72]

Thanks for the prompt reply Nick.

Unfortunately a search didn't reveal to me the thread your referring to. Did it have the answer to my questions? If so can you be more specific in identifying it?

I totally agree it would make sense to have a 12v source from the main battery, though with "range anxiety" such a big issue manufacturers are reluctant to add anything that will decrease it, by running ancillary services. (I read a thread that claims Sentry mode on a Tesla reduces range by 1-2 miles per hour of parking). However the whole reason I bought a PHEV was to obviate "range anxiety" so this is not an issue and no argument for not providing a 12v source on the main battery in a PHEV.

Just FYI I checked that my vehicle reports 12.5 v in acc. mode at the cigarette lighter socket, 14.7v in electric mode (so the automotive battery charges the 12v battery without the ICE running), and I also got 13.4v in acc mode while charging ( so the main charger also trickle charges the starter battery).. This implies the 12v battery should always be fully charged for parking!

Scott

One thought I had on the Tesla sentry mode (neighbour across the road has a model 3) is that the main self driving board is being used to do the detection as well as multiple high resolution cameras. This is going to use a lot of power given the software neural network running on the TPUs especially.

Using a modern dash cam I cant see it using more than a few miles per day. I could do the calculation based upon the wattage and thus the energy consumption per hour versus the kWhrs energy in the battery. Easy calculation with the numbers being available for the webcam. At home I leave mine plugged in most of the time so that would be 24/7 surveillance. When I leave the car at the supermarket or for a couple of days at the railway station it would be great if I can have the dash cameras running.

Just thoughts.

Nick

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[ScottStJohn]

One thought I had on the Tesla sentry mode (neighbour across the road has a model 3) is that the main self driving board is being used to do the detection as well as multiple high resolution cameras. This is going to use a lot of power given the software neural network running on the TPUs especially.

Using a modern dash cam I cant see it using more than a few miles per day. I could do the calculation based upon the wattage and thus the energy consumption per hour versus the kWhrs energy in the battery. Easy calculation with the numbers being available for the webcam. At home I leave mine plugged in most of the time so that would be 24/7 surveillance. When I leave the car at the supermarket or for a couple of days at the railway station it would be great if I can have the dash cameras running.

Just thoughts.

Nick

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Many thanks Nick, this is much appreciated! I'll try to locate the fuse box though I noted a reference to 3008 2017, which can't be a Hybrid 4, so there may be differences between the models... and mine is LHD....

To your other points I wholeheartedly agree...

The Tesla is overkill power wise for the reasons you state but I noticed from the Teslacam site it seems 80%-90% of the parking incidents are caught on the side cameras with front or rear hopefully picking up a number plate as they drive off, so of course a Tesla 360 setup would be ideal. It surely must be on the road maps of all car manufacturers to integrate 360 dash cams/sentry systems into future models, albeit as very expensive options!

My son has measured his Viofo 119 front dashcam recording at 2 watts and detection mode at 1 watt. and so has upgraded his 60 amp hour battery to 80 to give 12 hours detection before the voltage falls below the 12.2v cutoff (the time of his partners shifts with the car in the park where it has twice been damaged!) . Obviously nothing like the full battery capacity is available. Any lower voltage causes spurious CAN bus errors on his Mercedes, one of which immobilised the car and required a very, very expensive parking hall recovery and dealer reset. The Viofo Pro Duo with two cameras is quoted at 5 watts recording and 3.8 on detection so the parking time is going to be very limited without access to the main battery.

Referring back to our discussion of the ICE starting due to low 12v battery and the particularly low winter temperatures we see here in Helsinki, I am not at all optimistic about 24/7 monitoring other than when its charging. I therefore understand your idea of considering a separate power source. I assume you are aware that Cellink and Blackvue both make power banks for dash cams, though at a price, so I can also understand the desire to make your own!

As to the installation, I have just ordered everything today via Aliexpress, so it is also likely to be January before we are ready to install as delivery from China will take a while... I'll certainly keep you abreast of the situation and let you know how it goes. My reason for this thread was to try to check if it is feasible before committing to the purchase. I have taken a belt and braces approach and have a backup plan to use the obd port. Pin 16 is live and pin 4 is chassis ground so I can get "always on" power from that, and "acc" power from one of the two free slots in the fuse box next to the 15 amp fuses. I have ordered a obd plug for that purpose as well as the mini fuse taps so one way or another I'll make it work.

Thanks again for your interest, advice and support Nick.

Scott

 

[nickc72]

Many thanks Nick, this is much appreciated! I'll try to locate the fuse box though I noted a reference to 3008 2017, which can't be a Hybrid 4, so there may be differences between the models... and mine is LHD....

To your other points I wholeheartedly agree...

The Tesla is overkill power wise for the reasons you state but I noticed from the Teslacam site it seems 80%-90% of the parking incidents are caught on the side cameras with front or rear hopefully picking up a number plate as they drive off, so of course a Tesla 360 setup would be ideal. It surely must be on the road maps of all car manufacturers to integrate 360 dash cams/sentry systems into future models, albeit as very expensive options!

My son has measured his Viofo 119 front dashcam recording at 2 watts and detection mode at 1 watt. and so has upgraded his 60 amp hour battery to 80 to give 12 hours detection before the voltage falls below the 12.2v cutoff (the time of his partners shifts with the car in the park where it has twice been damaged!) . Obviously nothing like the full battery capacity is available. Any lower voltage causes spurious CAN bus errors on his Mercedes, one of which immobilised the car and required a very, very expensive parking hall recovery and dealer reset. The Viofo Pro Duo with two cameras is quoted at 5 watts recording and 3.8 on detection so the parking time is going to be very limited without access to the main battery.

Referring back to our discussion of the ICE starting due to low 12v battery and the particularly low winter temperatures we see here in Helsinki, I am not at all optimistic about 24/7 monitoring other than when its charging. I therefore understand your idea of considering a separate power source. I assume you are aware that Cellink and Blackvue both make power banks for dash cams, though at a price, so I can also understand the desire to make your own!

As to the installation, I have just ordered everything today via Aliexpress, so it is also likely to be January before we are ready to install as delivery from China will take a while... I'll certainly keep you abreast of the situation and let you know how it goes. My reason for this thread was to try to check if it is feasible before committing to the purchase. I have taken a belt and braces approach and have a backup plan to use the obd port. Pin 16 is live and pin 4 is chassis ground so I can get "always on" power from that, and "acc" power from one of the two free slots in the fuse box next to the 15 amp fuses. I have ordered a obd plug for that purpose as well as the mini fuse taps so one way or another I'll make it work.

Thanks again for your interest, advice and support Nick.

Scott

Awesome, sounds like a good plan Scott. Please let me know once complete.

I've seen the power banks for some dash cams. I could probably knock one together but I'd just love to use the drive battery. 5W is 5 joules per sec. The drive battery is 13.2kWhr which is 13,200 x 60 x 60 joules. About 47,500,000 joules. So, if we divide this by our 5 joules a second for the dashcam the drive battery could power such a camera for c. 10 million seconds. 115 days! So even leaving the car alone for a week would hardly make a difference to the drive battery.

My maths could be wrong by the way. But, our front door camera is wireless, runs motion detection, saves clips onto the sdcard, and alerts my mobile, and the battery in that lasts about 4 or 5 months before I need to take it inside and recharge it again. I was honestly thinking of just putting one in the car but because it uses passive Infrared to trigger the camera into recording a clip the infrared doesn't work through glass.

I thought the reference was to 3008 2017+ which is when the new model 3008 came out. Obviously as you say the hybrid4 is a 2020 model. Could be inaccurate advise in the thread given the differences between the hybrid4 and other models.

Am intrigued to find out what happens in terms of drive logic when it is properly cold. It will no doubt get very very cold in Finland come winter. Will find out here too albeit rare for the temperature to fall below minus 5 C in the NW of England. South westerly winds tend to keep us warm but wet!

Best wishes with your pursuit Scott. Eager to learn.
Nick

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[ScottStJohn]

Thanks again Nick,

I confused the 2016 and 2017 model years so you are right, these fuse details should apply to the current models. I have also found several other forum threads discussing fuse box accessibiity and how difficult visibility and access is, but am confident we are on the right track.

I also share your frustration of sitting on a 13.2 kw battery and not being able to use it, particularly when some PHEVS like the Mitsubishi Outlander provide not one, but two, AC sockets for running up to 1500w of equipment (in the US market).

It is such a pity the older car manufacturers underlying structures and processes can't adapt to the "customer engagement" model of Tesla, where a tweet of a good idea to Elon can result in implementation of a software upgrade in a few weeks or months. There doesn't appear to be anyone from PSA monitoring the forum, following up when they see multiple repetitions of the same issue, responding to requests, or gathering ideas and suggestions for continuous improvement or product development.

I'll keep you updated on the dash cam and the low temperature driving characteristics...Just changed to studded tyres for the winter!

Scott

 

[nickc72]

Thanks again Nick,

I confused the 2016 and 2017 model years so you are right, these fuse details should apply to the current models. I have also found several other forum threads discussing fuse box accessibiity and how difficult visibility and access is, but am confident we are on the right track.

I also share your frustration of sitting on a 13.2 kw battery and not being able to use it, particularly when some PHEVS like the Mitsubishi Outlander provide not one, but two, AC sockets for running up to 1500w of equipment (in the US market).

It is such a pity the older car manufacturers underlying structures and processes can't adapt to the "customer engagement" model of Tesla, where a tweet of a good idea to Elon can result in implementation of a software upgrade in a few weeks or months. There doesn't appear to be anyone from PSA monitoring the forum, following up when they see multiple repetitions of the same issue, responding to requests, or gathering ideas and suggestions for continuous improvement or product development.

I'll keep you updated on the dash cam and the low temperature driving characteristics...Just changed to studded tyres for the winter!

Scott

Cheers Scott.

So you just gave me an idea. I had the AC socket fitted on mine. Largely so I could plug a laptop in and charge it if I'm going from one part of the country to another or if a passenger wants to charge their laptop. Not an uncommon challenge in my work.

So I wonder if that socket is always live or whether it is switched off when the car is off.

Interesting.

Yeh see how you get on in th he cold weather. Interested to hear.

Best
Nick

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[ScottStJohn]

Cheers Scott.

So you just gave me an idea. I had the AC socket fitted on mine. Largely so I could plug a laptop in and charge it if I'm going from one part of the country to another or if a passenger wants to charge their laptop. Not an uncommon challenge in my work.

So I wonder if that socket is always live or whether it is switched off when the car is off.

Interesting.

Yeh see how you get on in th he cold weather. Interested to hear.

Best
Nick

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

I had no idea that is an option on the 3008, Nick.

It certainly isn't in Finland and I would definately have specified it, if possible. I specifically asked and the dealer flatly said it wasn't available on any Peugeot models anywhere!

My guess is the AC socket will only be on in accessories mode for " 'elf ´n safety " reasons, though for numerous situations it would be better always on, e.g. fridge for picnics when parked, charging laptops in the boot, remote power tools in the field, trickle charging other vehicles, etc., All these use cases you would want to leave the car locked and unattended for some time. So I would hope that it would be a simple on off switch on the dash with a warning light and beep if leaving and locking the car.

I'd be fascinated to learn how your AC socket works,Nick.

Cheers,

Scott

 

[nickc72]

I had no idea that is an option on the 3008, Nick.

It certainly isn't in Finland and I would definately have specified it, if possible. I specifically asked and the dealer flatly said it wasn't available on any Peugeot models anywhere!

My guess is the AC socket will only be on in accessories mode for " 'elf ´n safety " reasons, though for numerous situations it would be better always on, e.g. fridge for picnics when parked, charging laptops in the boot, remote power tools in the field, trickle charging other vehicles, etc., All these use cases you would want to leave the car locked and unattended for some time. So I would hope that it would be a simple on off switch on the dash with a warning light and beep if leaving and locking the car.

I'd be fascinated to learn how your AC socket works,Nick.

Cheers,

Scott

Scott, I'm going to try some experiments this weekend. Can't recall what the option cost me on what is a company car (for the next 2.7 years anyway). Think it was 100 or 150 quid onto the BIK value so I thought hell yes.

UK 3 pin socket. On the bottom of the centre console at the rear. Had a number of situations where I've been parked up somewhere typing away wishing I could charge my laptop on its last legs in the last company car (Merc).

You can however just buy a cigarette lighter inverter but there will be some current limitation issues and it wont be using the drive battery in all likelihood.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[ScottStJohn]

Scott, I'm going to try some experiments this weekend. Can't recall what the option cost me on what is a company car (for the next 2.7 years anyway). Think it was 100 or 150 quid onto the BIK value so I thought hell yes.

UK 3 pin socket. On the bottom of the centre console at the rear. Had a number of situations where I've been parked up somewhere typing away wishing I could charge my laptop on its last legs in the last company car (Merc).

You can however just buy a cigarette lighter inverter but there will be some current limitation issues and it wont be using the drive battery in all likelihood.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Look forward to hearing the outcome of your investigations Nick,

Scott

 

[nickc72]

Look forward to hearing the outcome of your investigations Nick,

Scott

Scott, the mains socket is only active when the car is started. Switches off when car is off. Works in electric mode so must be using the drive battery. Would be great if there was an option to change that.

Probably should have tried with car plugged in the charger port since you can run the preconditioning via the app without it using up the drive battery.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[ScottStJohn]

Scott, the mains socket is only active when the car is started. Switches off when car is off. Works in electric mode so must be using the drive battery. Would be great if there was an option to change that.

Probably should have tried with car plugged in the charger port since you can run the preconditioning via the app without it using up the drive battery.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Thanks for the update Nick,

I was reasonably sure it wouldn't work while the car was parked and locked, but I would have thought it might work in acc mode... The fact that it doesn't, appears to suggest that it "only works when the engine is running" meaning when the "ignition" is on.... (None of this makes any sense when talking about EV's and PHEV's since theres no "ignition" and the engine doesn't "run", so we need a new vocabulary to explain what we mean!) Either way its disappointing to see that you can't use the AC socket when parked. It would be a simple, easy and low cost solution to the issues of parking surveillance. Maybe, in time, someone will come up with a hack but certainly no one wants to invalid their warranty messing around with their new car. "The fitting of electrical equipment or accessories which are not recommended by Peugeot may result in a failure of your vehicle's electronic system" Sad way of manufacturers browbeating their customers. Quite different to the software approach of releasing Beta versions and encouraging experimentation and feedback, though I do recognize the difference between GTA games and real life,which may give rise to lawsuits... ! However there must be space in between for dialogue, discussion and feedback, if not experimentation.

Cheers,

Scott

 

[nickc72]

Thanks for the update Nick,

I was reasonably sure it wouldn't work while the car was parked and locked, but I would have thought it might work in acc mode... The fact that it doesn't, appears to suggest that it "only works when the engine is running" meaning when the "ignition" is on.... (None of this makes any sense when talking about EV's and PHEV's since theres no "ignition" and the engine doesn't "run", so we need a new vocabulary to explain what we mean!) Either way its disappointing to see that you can't use the AC socket when parked. It would be a simple, easy and low cost solution to the issues of parking surveillance. Maybe, in time, someone will come up with a hack but certainly no one wants to invalid their warranty messing around with their new car. "The fitting of electrical equipment or accessories which are not recommended by Peugeot may result in a failure of your vehicle's electronic system" Sad way of manufacturers browbeating their customers. Quite different to the software approach of releasing Beta versions and encouraging experimentation and feedback, though I do recognize the difference between GTA games and real life,which may give rise to lawsuits... ! However there must be space in between for dialogue, discussion and feedback, if not experimentation.

Cheers,

Scott

Yeh disappointed but not surprised like you.

Looking forward to getting a Rivian R1T when this one goes back. Expect they'll have thought things through.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[ScottStJohn]

Yeh disappointed but not surprised like you.

Looking forward to getting a Rivian R1T when this one goes back. Expect they'll have thought things through.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Hi Nick,
Yeah, the R1T looks stunning...! I noticed from another thread that one participant has posted links to a German site with pictures of a rear 12v battery in the 3008! So there are 2 x 12v batteries in the car...! Now how on earth does that work?.... Maybe we should just add a third for the dashcam as you suggested!
Scott