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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi There,

Installed a Dash Cam in the car today, so thought I would post a guide on how to do it. I don't like being able to see cables, so it was installed quite neatly.

The first thing to take note of is that a car runs at 12v, and dash cams can either run at 12v or 5v. The majority of them are 5v, and a quick way to tell is if they use a USB connection, they are likely 5v but its still best to check.

If your dash cam runs at 5v, then you can't just cut the 12v socket off and wire it in somewhere, even if it works to start with, there is a good chance you are slowly frying it.

So, the first thing you will likely need is a 12v to 5v step down converter. This will plug into the car at one end, and give out a safe 5v for the camera to work on. These come in many shapes and size, also many costs. The one I purchased has a mini usb on one end so it can go straight into the dash cam. The other end just had bare wires, so I crimped some spade connectors on as you can see in the photo. Just a quick note here, this cable had a couple of options, the main one being Right-Angled USB or Left-Angled USB, depending on what way your cameras USB port faces, would depend on whether you want a right or left angled, as if you get the wrong one, the cable would point down, then curve back around to the roof.



After toying with various ways to connect the dash cam, I decided that the best / easiest way was to connect the live to the fuse for the 12v socket with a Fuse Tap (also know as 'add a circuit connector'). Then connect the Earth to a bolt near the fusebox.

A Fuse Tap allows you to remove the fuse for a device, extend it out, and create 2 new connections that run off the same live, individually fused for safety. They normally have a wire coming off that you can crimp another wire to for the live. See the photo below:

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
The first thing I did was to take the interior light unit out, whilst this is not really required, I wanted to make sure that the step down converter, and the cables were well hidden. To remove the interior light, you just pull it down carefully from the back. There are a lot of cables here so be careful, mine had 2 for the alarm sensors, one for the microphone, and 4 for various light units. Un-clip them one by one carefully, and remember where they go back!

In this photo you can see the cable going into the roof lining by the windscreen and appearing in the dome light.



Now push the wire into the roof lining and across to the passenger A Pillar. The A Pillar trim on my car pulls off from the top, but you can't remove it completely as its stuck in the corner? See below:



At this point its a good idea to remove the side of the dashboard. If you open the passenger door and look at the panel that is hidden by the door when shut, you can get your fingers under the edge and pull the panel off. If your car has a switch here for the passenger airbag like mine does, be careful as there is a short cable you will also need to disconnect. See the photo below.



At this stage you should also open the glovebox, and remove the panel that hides the fuse box.

Consult the manual and find out which fuse is for your 12v socket, mine was a 10 amp, second one in. I have remove the fuse in the photo below so as to connect the fuse tap.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Connect the fuse tap and put both the original fuse and the fuse for the dashcam in, I used a 10a fuse here. You can see the fuse tap in the photo below:



At this point if you have a multimeter, you can pop the positive probe in the fuse tap crimp, and pop the negative on your suggested earth point and make sure its working ok. Once you are happy that its working, crimp your live cable onto the fuse tap.

I found a bolt in the corner of the dashboard, easily accessible with a socket set once the side panel of the dashboard has been removed. This looked like a good earth, so I crimped the earth wire to an eyelet, loosened the bolt, popped the eyelet under it and tightened it up again. You can see the eyelet in this photo here, its not in all the way as it slipped when I was taking the photo.



Take up any slack you have on the wire, and cable tie it together, pop the trim back together for the dashboard and the glovebox. I used a few cables in the A pillar to attach the wires to existing wires to stop them rattling.

Put the interior dome light back in, leaving the USB cable sticking out, and you are ready to go!

Here is a photo of the dashcam installed from the outside of the car:



And here is what I see when I am in the driver seat:

 

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Excellent post,
I've still hand time to look at fitting mine yet, need to get some replacement adhesive pads and refuse to pay the extortionate price from the camera manufacturer.
Quick question, are the fuses micro or mini? its hard to tell just looking through the glove box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Excellent post,
I've still hand time to look at fitting mine yet, need to get some replacement adhesive pads and refuse to pay the extortionate price from the camera manufacturer.
Quick question, are the fuses micro or mini? its hard to tell just looking through the glove box.
I knew there was a difference between normal and mini... I did not realise there was a micro :D

The listing for the product I bought says Mini. Here is the link for the exact one I bought.

Fuse Tap Adapter
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Right then! Test footage, just a short clip of some T**t in Milton Keynes who can't drive to give you an example of the footage. Not only were they in the wrong lane, their indicators don't appear to work.

Luckily I had already clocked he / she was a crap driver and gave them room on the roundabout, if I hadn't there likely would have been an accident.

YouTube encoding appears to have blurred to video a bit, but it still looks OK.

https://youtu.be/0bKtkSqfl94
 

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What dashcam are you using? The quality seems pretty good. Be interested to know what it is like at night time.

I bought one off ebay for £10 ( :D ) and the daytime it is ok. At night you can't really see much.

The main thing I am using it for is the daytime driving and you can make out the car's makes and ...

Now, I don't mean to be nit picking , but ...

approaching the roundabout, here are 2 lanes. If you are going straight, you can use either lane, unless there are specifically markings on the road to tell you otherwise.

There are no markings on the road, so he/she hasn't done anything wrong. and I fear had there been an accident, and you had provided that footage as proof, then more than likely you would have been found at fault as you had under taken/in the process of undertaking that car at the point of impact.

I agree that the car approaching the roundabout should not have been in the right lane unless there was traffic in front of them. But there doesn't seem to be any and she was just following the car in front.
 

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Thanks for that, really wish I had had mine installed today. After giving her a wash I went to B&Q where some delightful person has damaged my drivers door. Quotes of £500+ to repair?
That's terrible! That's one big dent and not a simple scratch! They must have hit your door with some force! Or maybe kids opened the car door, which is why I always tell my kids to not ever open their door in a car park and either me or their mother has to open it if there is a car next to us!

You could always ask BnQ to see if they have any CCTV in the car park to see if you can see who it was?
 

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i know it's been a few years since this was posted but nonetheless a really useful post here!

i managed to install my nextbase 412GW but with the fuse i chose after following a youtube guide found the camera would power up after unlocking the car/opening the doors, and would stay live until the fusebox shut down around a minute or so after turning the ignition off, which didn't sit right with me! (i was concerned this may still be drawing some power)

Anyway, this post helped me select a better fuse for my camera which now only has power when i turn the key! putting my mind at ease.

If only peugeot provided more comprehensive fusebox diagrams!
 
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