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Hello there I’ve started having a problem with my clutch pedal sticking in my car, it gradually just started happening but wanted to post it in here before I take it to my local garage to see if anyone has any simple fixes, there is a link below which is to the video I took of the problem, the clutch pedal gets stuck half way up, changes gear fine and clutch engages fine however pedal still stays mid way and I then end up using my foot behind the pedal to flick it back up, any help is much appreciated.

Cheers Callum

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hfuhusmajnr8hka/AABmSeyBjpEs8rhUyNeQRYtDa?dl=0
 

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It could be a number of different things. Spring on the pedal, master cylinder, slave cylinder.

My brother has almost same situation, same happens to him in 1 of 100 clutch presses. Our mechanic suggested to do nothing until, or better to say if it gets worse, because it would be hard to diagnose what it is exactly.

In your situation, it might be easier because it happens every time.
 

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I have this exact problem with mine (also 2014 1.6 diesel).

I keep forgetting to get down and have a look to see if there's any way I can sort it, but I've no idea what causes it?

It doesn't cause a problem with operating the clutch at all it just is a bit annoying that pretty much every time I park up I now find myself putting my foot under the pedal to bring it all the way up.
 

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Have you tried lubrication?
3in1 with PTFE sprayed up at the ball joint on the linkage, same for the pivot, then operate the pedal several times to get the lubricant into the joint.

If that makes no difference, then clearly it's something more sinister. But try the cheap fix first.
 

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Same thing happened to my father's 2015 1.6BlueHDI 120 with 55k miles.

He took it to the dealer and they said the clutch needed replacing, cost £1000, seems to have solved the problem now.
 

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Just thought I'd share my recent experience with sticky/creaky clutch pedal on my 308 - so my issue sounds similar to the general problem commonly reported i.e. the pedal returns to just above biting point but then often sticks there, sometimes it will click back to top on its own. There's a good video on youtube showing the basic issue, the pedal end of the master cylinder is spherical and fits into a split cup within the pedal, both are plastic and wear prematurely. The wear pattern is such that it starts to form a ridge, it's this ridge that causes the sticking and clicking. The only real long term solution is to replace both the master cylinder and split cup. You can confirm this is the problem quite easily and buy yourself a little time before getting it fixed properly, as mentioned the wear is oriented in one direction causing a ridge, if you grab the exposed webbed neck of the shaft to the rear of the pedal and rotate 90 degrees (1/4 turn) the ridge orientation moves in relation to the wear in the cup, hence you should find the problem goes away. However this will be a temporary fix as no doubt the wear will continue in the new orientation. Finally, there's talk on various forums of a TSB by Peugeot, I've no idea if this is related! if you have signs of leaking fluid, I'd suggest it's a different issue! - Good luck.
87534
 

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If the brake fluid level is low this can make the clutch pedal go low especially if it works better if you lift it up but the master cylinders do get faulty
 

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PTFE spray helps.
Yes I would imagine so, only problem there is that the lubrication is difficult to apply directly to the spherical end unless you remove it and to do that you need the special pliers. In the example where the wear has formed the ridge (in previous photo) I doubt lubrication would make that much difference, but I suppose it's worth a try if you can get into the split cup. I tried using lithium spray grease first and it made no difference, however rotating the master cylinder rod cured it for now, I do have a new one on order ready for a dry day when I can get around to doing it.
:)
 

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Mine was creaking so I sprayed the area with 3 in 1 with PTFE. The creaking went, so I imagine the lubricant worked its way round the ball with use.
 

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Mine was creaking so I sprayed the area with 3 in 1 with PTFE. The creaking went, so I imagine the lubricant worked its way round the ball with use.
Maybe that's a lesson learnt, I think you've spotted the problem early due to creaking noise thus avoiding the severe wear, I'd suggest you make it part of routine maintenance and you might avoid the cost of a replacement master cylinder later on. Out of interest what mileage did you reach before lubricating, my sticking pedal started around 75k miles, I'm now at 85k and will change the cylinder as I do loads of miles and will have the car until 160k miles.
 

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@trickytrev

Very useful info. I went to the service box and it seems that you can just buy the master cylinder. You can't get separately this plastic rod on the master cylinder. What I don't understand is this split cup. What is that? I'm attaching the image of the parts available to buy at the dealer. Can you point out to that split cup?

87553


Also, can I just rotate the rod with hand without dissembling anything?
 

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Maybe that's a lesson learnt, I think you've spotted the problem early due to creaking noise thus avoiding the severe wear, I'd suggest you make it part of routine maintenance and you might avoid the cost of a replacement master cylinder later on. Out of interest what mileage did you reach before lubricating, my sticking pedal started around 75k miles, I'm now at 85k and will change the cylinder as I do loads of miles and will have the car until 160k miles.
This was at around 15k miles/15 months old. But some part of the clutch pedal was changed at the next service as a recall. I sprayed it again and at 45k miles no noises.
 

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Hi, the forum tread confirmed what a Peugeot garage diagnosed for my 308 sw 2016.
Clutch pedal clip, master cylinder and rod worn... bla bla bla... £400.
It will need to be done surely at some point but, the suggestion in this ne of the replies regarding a 90 degree rotation solved the problem At supermarket car park and bought me few more months before forking the bill...
It’s easy to find thanks to the picture with the pedal assembly scheme.
Top of the pedal arm, the very first bit you touch, both hands .
It took literally 30 seconds.
Thanks everyone
Regards
Andrea[/QUOTE]
 

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Sorry, first post and bit of confusion on using it, my reply with a temp solution is at the bottom, after the two Callum copied, apologies
 

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@trickytrev

Very useful info. I went to the service box and it seems that you can just buy the master cylinder. You can't get separately this plastic rod on the master cylinder. What I don't understand is this split cup. What is that? I'm attaching the image of the parts available to buy at the dealer. Can you point out to that split cup?

View attachment 87553

Also, can I just rotate the rod with hand without dissembling anything?
Sorry for late reply - I thought the topic had died!
So just to help anyone still struggling or new to the thread - the master cylinder item 9 fits into item 14 the sender ball joint fastener (previously called 'split clip' by me before I saw diagram) - in truth 'split clip' is a better description when you see one
:p PS Mine is still working fine with the temporary fix of rotating the rod 90 degrees, I've done around 3K miles so far, but have the parts for a proper fix come the summer!
 

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Admittedly it's initially quite stiff and you need a strong grip to do it without any tools, although space is tight I seem to recall I used a pair of small (short) pliers to get it moving, once moving its fairly easy. you need to be gripping it approximately where shown in attached picture. Remember, it's trial and error, so rotate a little and try it, if that's not cured it try again - good luck, remember to let others know if it's successful - it's all good feedback!
1584347953490.png

88208
 

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Great, thanks. Will do when I try it. The thing is, now when it's colder, it doesn't stick. I'll see when the weather gets warmer.
 
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