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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, the van developed a problem and I am about to set about fixing it. I'm going to do my best to document progress here in the hope that it will be useful to any poor sole who finds himself in a similar position to me. At the moment this thread is probably going to go one of three ways - scrap it, fix it, or replace the motor. I have worked on plenty petrol engines but have very little experience with diesels so I'd appreciate any helpful advice or constructive criticism offered.

So the engine has had an occasional stutter usually around 60 mph in 6th. The engine falters for a split second but then continues as if nothing happened. I suspected a fuelling problem but scanned it and found no trouble codes consequently no freeze frame data. The problem has been very occasional so I've been happily ignoring the problem for almost a year and its been OK. (there may be a lesson in there somewhere).

On the last journey I made the engine fired straight away and I drove for about half a mile, I came off the throttle momentarily for traffic ahead and when I accelerated again I had no power. the engine was running but there was no 'pull'. I pulled over revved it a bit and it seemed OK but no way was I going to chance the journey, so I turned round and limped off home with my fingers crossed. It got me back without issue.

Firstly I decided to do two things - scan it and also have a look at the fuel filter.

Scan gave me DTC P1198 which I believe may be 'Pump Rotor Control Under Fuelling'. FF data - fuel rail pressure 4233.65 psi @2596 rpm

The attached pic shows what I found in the fuel filter housing - A load of glitter, or more precisely fine metallic particle contamination.

Based on the small amount of knowledge I have of diesel engines I have concluded (possibly incorrectly) that its f**k!d and in order to fix it I need to

Replace the fuel pump
Replace the injectors
Drain and clean the tank
Clean fuel lines on the low pressure side
Clean fuel lines on high pressure side.

It might be that I've got it wrong so please correct me if i have, but my theory is that the injection pump is failing and is destroying itself, leading to fuel contaminated with metallic particles being sent through the fuel rail to the injectors. Unused contaminated fuel is returned to the tank and where it is pumped back to the fuel filter by the primary pump leading to those lovely glittery deposits I found in the fuel filter housing.

Call me sentimental, but I'm not keen on scrapping it so do I fix it as above, or do I grab a low mileage replacement motor with its original pump and swap them over.
I'm leaning towards the replacement engine route given the high mileage the possibility of doing a clutch before too long together with all the other rotten luck I may have lol.

Id love to have your thoughts on what to do folks.

90075
 

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Watch and see if the rev counter dives to zero when this stutter happens. I had problems similar to yours and it was nothing to do with fuel. It was the crank sensor that was covered in crud and oil. Cleaned it and never had the problem again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks E7, I can see how a loss of a crank position signal would cause problems but I dont think it's the case with my problem. Van is now parked up until i can spend some time on it and I'm on the hunt for a decent low mileage RHK (if any exist).
 

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Update: After spending some time chasing low mileage engines I decided replacing the engine wasn't the right way to go. Having an engine with half the mileage of the current one would be nice but I came to the conclusion that finding a low mileage rhk engine is like trying to find a unicorn. Yes, there are folk selling these engines but the ones I spoke to either didn't return calls or couldn't back up their low mileage claims. Indeed some engines that were advertised I would suggest had 'mistakes' in the ad and the claimed 30k turned into 300k when the vehicles mot history was checked, and there were a few of these. Given the age of these engines I feel the odds are stacked against finding a genuine low mileage one.

If I was going to sell the vehicle I would have gone down the cheapest option of used pump and used injectors but as I am keeping it I want some assurance that the repair is going to last. Fortunately some new injectors came up for £400 and this influenced the decision to get a recon pump so I am in it for £700 which is about as much as I am prepared to spend on a fix.

I am told that to do this job thoroughly/correctly the high pressure fuel lines should be replaced all other fuel lines should be flushed out; the tank should be drained and cleaned out before reassembly.

Well the first problem for me is getting rid of £70 of contaminated diesel (I swear I'm never going to put more than a tenner in it from now on!) I have nothing suitable to drain that much fuel into and I can’t dispose of it at the local recycling centre anyway. The guy at the recycling suggested face book marketplace; he was confident that someone would come and get it.

The second problem is there is no budget for high pressure fuel lines. I was interested however to know why they are only to be used once. Delphi provided the answers on their website which states words to the effect of: bits of the screw threads can break off and contaminate the system, the ends of the pipe are designed to deform to make the seal and consequently work harden which may cause problems resealing and repeated use of the lines can cause the bore of the pipe to constrict which may lead to fuelling problems.

As I mulled things over in my mind I decided to start the job. I removed the pump which was more difficult than it needed to be as someone had had it off previously and covered the gasket in silicone when refitting to be sure of no oil leaks. The thing was stuck solid and required more persuasion than I am comfortable with to remove. Looking at the pump on the bench it was clear to me that it was not very well. The drive dog on the end of the pumps drive shaft was pretty beat up and the end of the drive shaft looked like it had been working pretty hard too. I could barely turn the pump by hand; in fact it was almost impossible.

I pulled the injectors out removed the top cover removed the high pressure lines and the common rail. I endeavoured to retain whatever diesel was in the lines to inspect for contamination catching what I could in some blue roll. I could find no sign of contamination in the high pressure lines. I unscrewed the torx plugs at either end of the common rail removed the sealing ball bearings and checked for contamination but couldn't find any. Naturally I flushed everything through thoroughly to be sure it was clean. I used isopropyl alcohol as it was what I had to hand but I guess you could use brake cleaner or fresh diesel to do the job. Next I went back to the pump and removed the pressure control valve the diesel that came out when I removed it was contaminated with 'bearing glitter'. I took a real good look at the low pressure line from the fuel filter housing to the injection pump. It was clean as could be so this reassured me the fuel filter had done its job.

What next..... Here’s what I decided. I'm not replacing the high pressure lines I have considered the risks but I think the chances of problems are minimal and I’ll take my chances. I'm not going to go to the trouble of draining the tank I'm going to fit the new pump and trust the fuel filter to do its job. Hedging my bets I’m going to refit the old injectors and see how it runs. Various folk are of the opinion the injectors will be damaged but this is not yet proven, so we will just have to see how it goes. It ran albeit poorly before I started so with a bit of luck it will run long enough to burn through the contaminated fuel. Once I’m rid of the contaminated fuel I will again clean the fuel filter housing and change the fuel filter then I’ll fit the new injectors.

Attached are a couple of pics showing damage to the drive dog (which I cleaned up and reversed before refitting so its not driving on the damaged bits) and the pump with its hard worked driveshaft.
drive dog.jpg
fuel pump.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update: The van is back together. It fired up no problem and ran normally or to be more accurate it ran like it did before the problem with the fuel pump started. It has always during my ownership had an occasional stutter noticed when cruising in 6th around 60 mph which, whilst not confirmed, I suspect is injector related. Graphing rail pressure this time shows much more normal behaviour. After thorough road testing to max rail pressure I found no issues. I checked for leaks and found everything bone dry. So far I have burned 1/4 of a tank of fuel. Once the tank is empty I will check for further debris in the filter housing and change the filter. I'm not going to call it a fix just yet but I probably could have got away without buying injectors and it seems there are some lessons here.



Firstly, injectors do not necessarily fail because the injection pump has destroyed its bearings. They may not be perfect but in my case the van runs like it used to. I perfectly understand why a garage would say change them. Changing injectors and the hp lines along with the pump is going to pretty much ensure a one-time fix which means vehicle off the road only once, no complaints no comebacks, happy customer, and onto the next job.



Secondly you don’t always need to change hp fuel lines. But if they leak how long do you dick about trying to stop that leak? Where time is money there is an argument for just changing them and knowing the job will be right.



Fortunately for me I am not under pressure to get the van back on the road I have the luxury of being able to dick around with it to my heart’s content and it doesn’t matter if it takes a day or a week to sort it. So we will see how we go over the next few weeks and I will post a final update when I’m confident to say ‘it’s a fix’.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, Diagbox was showing quite a bit of fuel correction going on so I did a quick leak off test today. Results as per the photo. This it seems is too much but I cant say if this is due to contaminated fuel or due to general wear since we didn't know the state of the injectors prior to the pump detonating itself. I'm leaning towards general wear as the amount of fuel is about even with only one bottle showing slightly more. I don't think there would be consistent damage across all injectors if this was caused by contamination but I could be wrong. I'm leaving them in until I get through the remaining fuel in the tank then I'll swap them. I don't go far these days so I'll be back in a few weeks (y)

90582
 

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How long was it running, leak off looks consistent across the injectors so they cannot be too bad.

Correction value in diagbox is not just related to injector condition it can also affected by general engine wear. Engine ECU has a base figure for idle and adjusts the correction based on how well the cylinder fires and torque generated against it's reference value and adjusts as needed to keep engine running at idle torque setting (which is just enough to keep engine running for emissions)
 

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Thanks windy - this was a 5 min test I found info on another thread 2.0 hdi injector leak off test, what should it be

This test relates to a Bosch injector:

"2 mins idle
30 secs @3k rpm
30 secs @idle
30 secs @3k rpm
30 secs @idle
30 secs @3k rpm
30 secs @idle

Ideally volumes after this should be no more than 30ml."

As with a lot of stuff I read on the net I am taking all this on face value and I'm unsure of its validity. I'm running vdo/continental injectors but I was curious to see how what I have compared to the above test. If it is correct that volumes should be no more than 30ml all my injectors seem to be a long way over that.
 
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