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My 2010 207 CC 1.6 won't start. Yesterday it started but ran rough, like on 3 cylinders, and the Check Engine light came on. Cheapo eBay bluetooth OBD2 scanner reported P1340 and gave me the option to clear the code, which I did in the hope I'd at least get limp home mode, but no, now it won't start at all. Trying to start the car makes the windscreen wipers move a bit, which is odd.

I tried googling and following advice about disconnecting the battery etc. Of course we try the easiest fixes first, but it looks like the ECU/BSI/Whatevs has gone to the dogs.

eBay Australia has Lexia 3 + software kits for under AU$100 delivered, but I'm really confused about which one will do exactly what I need and no more. Does anyone have any advice? Link to a good one that isn't over the top for my car?

If I can get the car home I'll try swapping out ignition coils and will poke around with the camshaft sensor connectors to see if they're plugged in properly. All relevant advice gratefully received :)
 

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Check ALL wiring connections and earths under the bonnet wiring is a common issue on these dont keep disconnecting the battery you can make things worse and loose your key codes.

Unless you find signs of water ingress the ecu/bsi are NOT the issue.
 

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OK I'm posting this here in case someone else has the same problem and tries Googling it. Don't trust Google! I found so much very worrying disinformation that could have cost me a lot of money. If I had been able to successfully perform a ECU/BSI reset I would have had huge problems from then on.

I could use the OBD2 reader and app to clear the fault code, the car would run fine for around half an hour, then the misfire would start again and I'd have to limp on 3 cylinders to where I was going.

Some websites reported that the error code is due to the Camshaft Position Sensor, so I ordered a replacement. Canceled it again once I realised that the Camshaft Position Sensor was reporting a fault, not because the sensor was faulty, but because the misfire was causing the camshaft to be in an unexpected position during that part of the ignition cycle.

When trying to start the car I was getting weird electrical issues (windscreen wipers moving, dashboard lights flashing) and the car wouldn't start. Turns out that's because the battery power was too low for the car to start. The battery was underpowered because a misfiring cylinder/pollution fault warning causes the radiator fan to run on full for a long time even after the ignition is switched off.

A jump start got me home but the misfire remained. Trickle-charged the battery overnight and that was sorted. So I thought I would look at the ignition system.

P1337 P1338 P1339 and P1340 are misfires on cylinders 1 to 4 (maybe not in that order). Could be either the spark plugs or the ignition coils so I reasoned that swapping the coils around but not the plugs would narrow down which; if I got the same code it's the plug, if I got a different code it's the coil.

Swapped the coils around, started the car up, went for a drive. Half an hour later the fault code cleared itself and the car's been running just fine since then.

I had the car logbook serviced by Midas a couple of weeks ago. I reckon maybe they got some grease or dirt on one of the contacts on the spark plug, and removing and reseating the coils cut through it. I'm hoping that's the case anyway.

So anyone else with error codes P1337, P1338, P1339 or P1340, don't panic and start with the easy fix first. Swap the coils around and see what happens. If the coil is dead, you can get replacements from Supercheap for $72.

Also, ditch the cheapo bluetooth OBD2 you got for $5 off eBay, invest $70 or so in PP2000 and a Lexia 3 cable.
 
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