Peugeot Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all hope someone can help

I have just replaced the head gasket and cambelt on a 09 207 1.4 verve easy enough as ive done a few before (headgaskets anyway). All went as planned but now its running rough like a missfire it does run and tick over but put your foot down and it goes but take you foot off and it will cut out. Did i miss something? if im right the torque setting are 20nm first then 240 degrees?. I'm at a dead end in thinking of something i have missed so please help :thumb:

Thanks


Rick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Firstly did you do the 240 degrees in stages working center outward, or just 240 degrees?
and are you sure you have the timing right?
Have you had the head skimmed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
No the head wasn't skimmed as it wasn't warped and yes 20nm each bolt then the 240 each bolt (new bolts)working from centre out as you would with any head bolts and yes i think the timing is right as i found the old tensioner was broken so there was some slack in the cambelt when i took the head off nothing moved as i locked the cam up :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
May i ask why you changed head gasket in the first place?
and how do you know the head insn't warped, how was it checked?
and you dont go 20 nm then 240 degrees each bolt, its done in stages so 240 / 3 or 4 so 80 degrees each bolt or 60 degrees, most likly 80 degrees each stage
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
How did you verify timing ?

Its unlikely to be the head bolting up that's causing the issue even done very badly without a torque wrench it would still run :)

definately sounds like timing or a wiring issue
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
How did you verify timing ?

Its unlikely to be the head bolting up that's causing the issue even done very badly without a torque wrench it would still run :)

definately sounds like timing or a wiring issue
Afraid i would have to disagree with reliable406, if you have bolted down in 2 stages, instead of the required 4 stages you may have distorted the cylinder head, its only a light cast alloy which can be twisted/distorted easier than you think. but i agree that it sounds more like a timing issue, which is why i have asked the above questions
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
i re-set the timing by locking the crank and then seeing how far the cam was out and it was only out by 1 tooth but that was enough to give all the symptoms as for the head torquing the only setting i had for it was 20nm and the 240 degrees there wasn't any other instructions see here on TU ally block Common Peugeot Cylinder Head Torques and Valve Clearances

I hope this helps someone else and thanks for your help :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
May i ask why you changed head gasket in the first place?
and how do you know the head insn't warped, how was it checked?
and you dont go 20 nm then 240 degrees each bolt, its done in stages so 240 / 3 or 4 so 80 degrees each bolt or 60 degrees, most likly 80 degrees each stage
It was changed for the oil leak near the cam belt cover and was out of warranty the head i checked with a strait edge the is true as i had i made up so by the sounds of it i may have been lucky in torquing it down it 2 stages because it runs no loss of compression or water oil mix
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
I have done hundreds of heads over my 30 years fixing cars and I have never seen a head warped or distorted by torqueing down wrongly !! especially on a small engine like a TU block.

If you have ever seen an XD3 engine then I have seen them warped not by bad bolt tightening but by overheating by the time you have tightened all the bolts properly you are knackered :)
Poor tightening will not distort a head but it might lead to premature gasket failure and the need to redo the job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,377 Posts
Mainly so that the GASKET is sealed evenly as if 1 section is not as tight as another the gasket is more likely to fail at that point.

The tightening for an xd3 for example called for the bolts to be redone after running and if you did not do this they did tend to fail afterwards it was a pain redoing them as the rocker shaft had to come off but it had to be done.

Incidently I rarely use a torque wrench I prefer to feel how tight they are and rarely do I need to do the gasket again also I do not agree with skimming for the sake of skimming

yes if a head has been hot then it needs skimmed but if its simply being replaced during a rebuild or the failure was between oil galleries whatever I use a flat block and emery cloth to flatten it heads do not always need skimmed some heads CANNOT be skimmed or they end up bellow the minimum hight this then leads to more issues than the skim may prevent H6 Subaru heads for example should not be skimmed or the timing cover wont line up.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top