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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning all,

Am in need of a bit of assistance from you lovely guys with regard to me Expert 2.0 HDI (2006).

I have sent the ECU off to be tested as recommended by local (good garage scheme) garage.

The fan comes on as soon as engine is started and im getting no temperature reading on the dash and the red warning light is on all the time. This rises at a slow rate and resets back to zero when engine stopped and restarted.

The coolant temperature sensor has been changed with no change and the local garage stated there was no feed coming from the sensor.

Therefore, whilst the ECU is on route to All Car Electronics, I wanted to use my multi meter to check the wiring from the ECU plug to the engine coolant temperature sensor to eliminate a possible broken wire.

I don't suppose any of you lovely guys know what pins / points are to the engine coolant temperature sensor from the ECU connectors do you? If so, I dont suppose you could give a picture of it so that I can check from both ends.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as Peugeot have told me that they would do a complete engine wiring loom for £800 which is out my league totally, with a small family to support that would just be way to much to spend if could be prevented.
Thank you everybody, hope you have a cracking day
 

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Just as a side question on this, the temp needle on my 55 Expert 1.9D just dropped to full left today (it has been working fine till now) so I need to start some checking.
Where exactly is the sensor located - I'm figuring possibly a wire fault to start with?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just as a side question on this, the temp needle on my 55 Expert 1.9D just dropped to full left today (it has been working fine till now) so I need to start some checking.
Where exactly is the sensor located - I'm figuring possibly a wire fault to start with?
Think your would be in same location mate, just under airfilter block on right of engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Going by autodata pin 1 on the sensor (green cable) goes to D1 on the engine ecu and Pin 2 sensor (yellow cable) goes to E1 on the engine ecu.
Both pins are on the 48pin brown ecu plug...Hope it helps..:)
Ron.
Mate you are a complete star, found the yellow wire has come away from the Brown plug that goes into the ECU, checked with multi meter and reading going through.

Now the tricky bit, I have included some pictures and do have a soldering iron that I have used millions times.

As you can see from the pictures, what would be the best way of connecting this wire back to the harness?
I notice the blue block within the ECU plug, would removing this be a option if it does come out of the adapter?

Many thanks for the great help and assistance, it is truly appreciated.
 

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Mate you are a complete star, found the yellow wire has come away from the Brown plug that goes into the ECU, checked with multi meter and reading going through.

Now the tricky bit, I have included some pictures and do have a soldering iron that I have used millions times.

As you can see from the pictures, what would be the best way of connecting this wire back to the harness?
I notice the blue block within the ECU plug, would removing this be a option if it does come out of the adapter?

Many thanks for the great help and assistance, it is truly appreciated.
Well spotted...:cool:
These plugs/connectors are next to impossible to strip down with breaking..:(
If you tin the tip of the yellow wire with solder is there enough room to solder it onto the plug/connector pin...?

Welldone again..:thumb:
Ron.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well spotted...:cool:
These plugs/connectors are next to impossible to strip down with breaking..:(
If you tin the tip of the yellow wire with solder is there enough room to solder it onto the plug/connector pin...?

Welldone again..:thumb:
Ron.
No thank you Ron, without your help I could have spent far longer and never located the problem, local garages haven't spotted it :thumb:

Yep I was worrying that would be the case, so like you said, possible way forward is to remove some more of the outer (yellow) coating, tin the amount of wire showing and try and solder it back into position as the wire goes in a good 1 inch before reaching its old home, therefore would need to heat up lower down and hope that hits the spot. What a bugger hey lol.
Thank you so much mate
Wayne
 

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Ok,I think I found it if it has a green plug going to it and is in a metal 'lump' just the front of the manual priming pump. Many thanks.

Completely off topic, any ideas where the other end of the think hose coming out the bottom of (I assume) the fuel filter housing (black plastic canister beside manual priming pump) shold be attached..... if anywhere ?

Back on topic, those little connectors in multiplug blocks are anchored by a small barb/tang on the 'back' of the clip. If you look into the end of the multiplug you should see the contact clips are typically : on one side and | on the other. If you slide a flat blade instrument screwdriver or similar up the one piece clip and the plastic of the plug, you should be able to release the tang and just push out the remainder of the clip. Replacement clips are available at old fashioned type motor factors.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hello All, Got my ECU back, it had to be repaired due to water getting into the unit, I remember my expansion tank developing a leak year ago and the anti freeze mixture was being spat all over the place, this would be where I think this came from.
Managed to re-solder the coolant temperature wire back in place, ECU connected up and hey presto, no stop light flashing and a temperature reading at last.
But, now I have the engine management light on, vehicle is running like a dream but it only goes out for a brief second when starting before coming back on.
Now to update you, round 6 months ago for no reason, it wouldn't start, just kept turning over but wouldn't fire up.
P1517 Coded Anti Start Operation was read by local garage and a Immobiliser specialist had a look at it and said that the for some reason there was no feed coming from / to the immobiliser. Therefore a local Auto Electrician re-mapped some wiring round the ECU and this cured the starting problems most of the time, it does still however have its moments where it refuses to start for a bit, normally leaving for 10 to 20 minutes and this sorts this out.
However, this is not ideal, I like my vehicle running how it should, no warning lights etc.
My thinking is that the ECU was damaged, now that it has been repaired and has a 12 month warranty on it, could it be that the wiring that the Auto Electrician done needs reverting back to its original factory way?
I have looked at the wiring and can see that he has added a resistor / fuse, grounded wire to the chassis, Extension wire from the first plug (Yellow Wire) to this resistor / fuse and then a white wire (original wiring) to the resistor / fuse. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I want the engine management light gone and the vehicle starting properly without her occasional refuses.
Codes read are:
P0380 Pre Heating Relay Circuit
P1517 Coded Anti-Start Operation
P0403 Exhaust Gas Recycling Circuit Open Circuit
P0221
P0500

Really need any pointers or help you can give if possible please?
Big thank you
 
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