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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I've just recently purchased a 307 HDi 2.0l 110 BHP 2004 (04) Probs - My first Diesel.

Have been driving a ST220 for 4 or so years too so appreciate its going to be different.

Few things I've noticed in last week or so.

Car drives and pulls fine, handles well and generally no noises or and too noticeable faults when driving after reaching operating temp...apart from the dodgy CD changer which I fixed today.

On starting (cold mornings only) its has been difficult to turn over but does okay after 2/3 attempts - did this for few days after buying, put it down to having been sitting in forcourt for a while although dealer said they put new battery on it? Still not convinced but has been better last few days.

Second thing is its a bit lumpy/clunky on startup and when warm idle's fine but when turning the ignition off it seems to overrun and lumps? Done a bit of digging and suspecting engine mounts maybe or am I just not used to a diesel engine yet??

Other thing is when pulling away only...more so when cold I get a bit of clutch judder...well thats what it feels like. Admittedly I'm probably not fulling away as I might need to in a diesel do I need to give it more umph - thinking clutch or flywheel? Is the clutch cable self-adjusting or hydraulic? I did try pulling away in 3rd as a test and it stalled which from past experiences is a good thing I hope!!

Howver notcied moreso tonight that moving from 3rd to 4th generates a little clonk and whilst on dual-carriageway dropping to clutch whilst at a stead 65mph also noticed a little clonk. May just be paranoia!!

Anyway sorry to bang on, any help would be hugely appreciated to this diesel HDi newbie :)
 

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Check the camshaft sensor first.

But after that it sounds to me like dual mass flywheel clutch problems, because of the "clunk" noise. Prepare for a big bill. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response, I only purchased the car little over a week ago. Its back in on Monday morning for a check up.

Anything other than the camshaft sensor and Clutch/DMF I should get them to check - can't imagine they are going to be happy with doing the DMF if required.

I have warranty but where do I stand if they say this and that is not covered. I've not had the car long, am I covered by any sales act??

Cheers, Dale
 

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the clutch judder in the car. is it just when pulling of in first. if so more that likely there a solid mass flywheel been done already. i no mine went like that when i done mine.

the other clonk can u feel it when u press the clutch ive seen the rod on the master cyclinder snap in half and that wat u start to feel b4 they break

hope this was helpful
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply much appreciated as is any help beofre I go into the garage Monday.

Yes its when pulling away and reversing, does improve as the car gets warmer but still noticable. Possibility that previous owner or garage have replaced with solid conversion and hoped for the best, the wife doesn't seem to think its a problem but i'm fully aware there an issue there.

The clonk isn't so prominent as it is when ignition is switched off and to some extent when the car in started but think this is more to do with the battery CCA and having not been used. My main concern it with the overrun/lump when the ignition is switched off not unless its just a diesel thing and i'm overreacting!!

Cheers, Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just an update before I go back to the garage on Monday. Pulled up somewhere quiet after feeling the clutch what i can only explain as like it stretch when I changed gear when pedal fully engaged??

Anyway with the engine running and in neutral noticed when the clutch is depressed the engine/clutch noise is much quieter?

Definitely thinking its not my paranoia and there is something wrong.

Can anyone tell me where I stand in terms of repairs or refund? I have warranty but sure there is likely to be some disclaimer getting them out of it.

Been reading up on the sale of goods act but not entirely sure how it would apply to second hand car purchase and whether I could in fact get my money back if they refuse to repair?

Any advice would be most appreciated.

Cheers, Dale
 

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The fact that the noise quietens when you push the clutch down does sound like a dmf issue. The dmfs are quite expensive on this model and you'd be looking at a bill of £6-800
The sale of goods act does apply to used cars and I believe (don't quote me) that covers 3 months automatically. I recently fitted a dmf and clutch to a Mondeo where the owner had a warranty and they eventually agreed to pay about 2/3 of the bill. If you bought the car very recently, see if you cna get a diagnosis from a peugeot agent and then go back to the supplying garage and ask him to fix it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just an update following visit back to the garage...

Apparently on the MOT the front struts were replace and the coil over wasn't seated in the cup properly?? Anyway much of the knocking has disappeared now so all good. Plus they fixed the faulty horn, checked injectors, glow plugs and battery for the cold starting but found nothing and said he had started it fine no problems. Told me to give it a little gas when starting - i'm not convinced but its not as bad as I had made out so will live with it.

However I still felt there was sone clutch noise, was in agreement with the dealer that there is no slipping and gears change fine. Car stalls when pulling away in high gear. So he said he wasn't prepared to strip clutch if it was working fine.

Anyway I may just bite the bullet and get it changed as pretty sure the release bearing is going. Noise/slight ratlle with clutch pedal up, clutch pedal down and noise disappears.

Out of interest phoned the local stealers (John Grose, Peugeot) price for parts only - clutch kit which was reasonable 194.88 + VAT less than I was expecting but I get brother discount anyway so will be less. Asked about a DMF and they don't list/stock one anymore and recommend the conversion kit which was 252.91 + VAT.

I have read lots about the conversion and mixed opinions on it, but was amazed that they no longer did the DMF. Now wondering if I may as well just get it done if I can find a garage that will fit it cheap enough, but just not sure about the solid fly.

Anyone else tried to get DMF from main dealer recently?

Cheers

Dale
 

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Interesting about the dealers no longer supplying dmf for this model. Relase bearing noise normally occurs with the clutch down, but the dmf can rattle when the clutch is not pressed at idle. Always very difficult to diagnose accurately.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cold starting sorted was showing an injector fault, bunged some millers through it and its sorted its much improved. Was dubious about a £12 bottle of additive curing lumpy start and idle but it seems to have worked.

Having not had much luck with dealer regarding the clutch as technically its working fine and its just a noise bearing and I think flywheel so for peace of mind i've finally bitten the bullet and got the money to get clutch and flywheel done.

Had a two quotes for labour of 200 and 288, which I though was reasonable but might phone round a few more - can get parts from Peugeot direct as brother works there!!

One thing from quote today was the helpful mechanic said I would also need seals and a nose cone, can any tell me which seals and what's a nose cone is please?

Cheers

Dale
 

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By the nose cone he means the tube which the release bearing sides up and down on. You only need to change this if the bearing has failed, which yours hasn't.Seals are probably the driveshaft seals. Many people change these as a matter of course. Personally I don't see the point in changing seals that aren't leaking, and as peugeot shafts don't have a circlip on them they rarely get damged when the shafts are removed. They're not expensive though.
 

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The issue with pulling away could be down to the handbrake cables. It's a known issue on the 307. It's down to water getting into the cables and freezing. I've had this a couple of times. It made the car feel like it had lost some power.

When you are moving, try lifting the handbrake lever. If it feels like there is no resistance then the cables have frozen and keeping the parking brake slightly on. As things warm up the handbrake frees off and you notice the difference when moving off or coasting.

The recommandation is to replace both handbrake cables. I believe they have been modified to prevent this happening. Eurocarparts currently list them at £16.50p each
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for info guys. Can't seem to find nose cone on service box for part number is there a correct name for what this is?

If i'm having everything changed is there anything else I may need for the job, just wondering if the clutch form needs changing also clutch fork?

Cheers

Dale
 

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Not sure what a clutch form is. Try guide tube for nose cone. Euro car parts stock the guide tube and clutch fork for the BE3 BE4 gearboxes. You normally only need either of these if the bearing has broken up (which yours hasn't obviously)
 
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