Hi all,
307 owner for three years always under restoration but wouldn't swap it yet
2004 1.4 HDI
I bought mine three years ago from a one owner guy whom serviced it well and had loads of invoices and a mileage of 109,000 he had the oil and filter changed every year 7000 miles ( Kwik fit ? ) and yearly mot and service so I am wondering why my tappets are really rattle till warm and sound really rough at high revs.
He sold it as it was a bad starter and I found out it was the plastic fuel pipe worn through on the engine so hoping I got a bargain
I have been throwing money at it ever since
Broken front springs, wheel bearings, drive shafts rear brakes / discs hubs ( Bosch arrgh) front brakes discs calipers etc new clutch last year
Basically two rear tyres and corroded exhaust and the battery are still original since I bought it and covered 19,000 miles
Done a engine flush or two with the proper oil and yes its been fine but as the cold weather is here its blowing out blue smoke on cold start up then clears
Now the engine runs really lumpy on tick over shakes to 1800 rpm till warm
or initial start as I just drive it
Did the injector seals two years ago and there was a lot of carbon sludge so I took the decision to blank off the EGR too but never did anything else like a EGR delete on ecu so I am wondering if my blank is causing these faults
I have bought that clone PP2000 off ebay and really want to know if I have a duff set of injectors and fault codes
I have an engine oil temp sensor fault in the dashboard ?
is that the oil level sensor too ?
I am a clone diagnostics virgin and dabble in DIY mechanics and the injection live data means nothing to me
I see that the engine speed is erratic when on idle saying its 1000-5000rpm
I see that this
Fuel pressure 369 bar
N0 1 injector corrector 2.23 mg impulse
No2 " -0.03 mg "
No3 " -0.22 mg "
No4 " -1.91 mg "
diesel delivered to pump 2207.84 mm3/sec
Permanent ecu fault air flow inlet higher than recommended
I spotted an oil leak on the drive and when investigated I found that the rocker box breather hose had expanded and was loose on the pipe ends and leaking oil vapour down rocker and gearbox so I don't know if this that fault fault
insulating tape and jubilee clip as a temp measure till replacement arrives
Way up the pros and cons of repair of spare parts or just drop in a donor engine
Tappet lifters 50 quid timing belt kit and water pump £££
Gasket kit
second hand injectors tested from a recon specialist ££££
time labour
Its going to have to go to a garage as I don't have engine removal lifts
Can an engine be parted inside and lifted up clear from the gearbox
if the engine mounting and alternator and ac pump removed ?
Nothing on youtube to help
Just wondering how much its going to cost on garage rates if interested ?
had the car valued in part ex last year and quoted £350 quid mate
after spending £440 on a clutch and mot decided to run it a bit longer
oh and those rear arm bushes are perished but have them in stock
not been the best summer to lay under a car any weekend this year
Looks very clean underneath and no rot that I can see
how much money do you spend to keep an old reliable friend roadworthy
The death rattle to be fair has been there for years just when the cd stuck again and I had no tunes its not sounding nice third radio fitted since ownership and PP to code it in and its never going to get any better
EGR blank ... should I remove it and rescan the live data to see if the ecu is modifying the fuel to compensate ??
So many questions on my first post
Thanks for looking
Any specialists in County Durham ?
307 owner for three years always under restoration but wouldn't swap it yet
2004 1.4 HDI
I bought mine three years ago from a one owner guy whom serviced it well and had loads of invoices and a mileage of 109,000 he had the oil and filter changed every year 7000 miles ( Kwik fit ? ) and yearly mot and service so I am wondering why my tappets are really rattle till warm and sound really rough at high revs.
He sold it as it was a bad starter and I found out it was the plastic fuel pipe worn through on the engine so hoping I got a bargain
I have been throwing money at it ever since
Broken front springs, wheel bearings, drive shafts rear brakes / discs hubs ( Bosch arrgh) front brakes discs calipers etc new clutch last year
Basically two rear tyres and corroded exhaust and the battery are still original since I bought it and covered 19,000 miles
Done a engine flush or two with the proper oil and yes its been fine but as the cold weather is here its blowing out blue smoke on cold start up then clears
Now the engine runs really lumpy on tick over shakes to 1800 rpm till warm
or initial start as I just drive it
Did the injector seals two years ago and there was a lot of carbon sludge so I took the decision to blank off the EGR too but never did anything else like a EGR delete on ecu so I am wondering if my blank is causing these faults
I have bought that clone PP2000 off ebay and really want to know if I have a duff set of injectors and fault codes
I have an engine oil temp sensor fault in the dashboard ?
is that the oil level sensor too ?
I am a clone diagnostics virgin and dabble in DIY mechanics and the injection live data means nothing to me
I see that the engine speed is erratic when on idle saying its 1000-5000rpm
I see that this
Fuel pressure 369 bar
N0 1 injector corrector 2.23 mg impulse
No2 " -0.03 mg "
No3 " -0.22 mg "
No4 " -1.91 mg "
diesel delivered to pump 2207.84 mm3/sec
Permanent ecu fault air flow inlet higher than recommended
I spotted an oil leak on the drive and when investigated I found that the rocker box breather hose had expanded and was loose on the pipe ends and leaking oil vapour down rocker and gearbox so I don't know if this that fault fault
insulating tape and jubilee clip as a temp measure till replacement arrives
Way up the pros and cons of repair of spare parts or just drop in a donor engine
Tappet lifters 50 quid timing belt kit and water pump £££
Gasket kit
second hand injectors tested from a recon specialist ££££
time labour
Its going to have to go to a garage as I don't have engine removal lifts
Can an engine be parted inside and lifted up clear from the gearbox
if the engine mounting and alternator and ac pump removed ?
Nothing on youtube to help
Just wondering how much its going to cost on garage rates if interested ?
had the car valued in part ex last year and quoted £350 quid mate
after spending £440 on a clutch and mot decided to run it a bit longer
oh and those rear arm bushes are perished but have them in stock
not been the best summer to lay under a car any weekend this year
Looks very clean underneath and no rot that I can see
how much money do you spend to keep an old reliable friend roadworthy
The death rattle to be fair has been there for years just when the cd stuck again and I had no tunes its not sounding nice third radio fitted since ownership and PP to code it in and its never going to get any better
EGR blank ... should I remove it and rescan the live data to see if the ecu is modifying the fuel to compensate ??
So many questions on my first post
Thanks for looking
Any specialists in County Durham ?