I have been fortunate in never breaking a glow plug off when extracting them.
However, have had quite a few which fought desperately to stay put..
I always get penetrating oil down the hole first, let it settle and then use a socket with a T-bar so I can rock the plug gently clockwise/anticlockwise and ease it out that way by gradually easing it out [sometimes it is very difficult to get to them so cant always get a T-bar close, so make other plan].
If it sticks on the way out, more penetrating oil, wind it back in and start the rocking all over. Blowing down the recess with an airgun to remove debris also helps. Sometimes warming up the engine seems to help, other times doing it cold works better. I never continue forcing it out if it jams, just wind it back in and start the whole process again.
I would not like to think I was a Pug technician... or 307 guru
Stuff you have to take off ... just to get at them
I take the wiper rainbow ( when I am looking for a pot of gold .. my humour sorry ... everytime that comes off I know I am in for a treat ) shroud off... normally bolted ... mines on Velcro .... well nearly still need a 10mm socket
Yes ... from egr valves and cam belt sides to fuel fiter and mount brackets,
never mind the rocker box and those stubborn o rings and all the other stuff
Its not my idea to waste another day fixing a simple task 20 years ago
Technology ...
I bet some smart techs with a ramp can do them from behind blind ?
Maybe No4 near HP pump / EGR pipe work could be an issue
Been looking for a new daily ...
Think the current scrappage scheme is having an impact on my choice of what is available at my level of £££
Even a few garages I frequented today seemed to have expensive junk
Got to fit that turbo boost gauge today
primitive it is ... how accurate it is I don't know but lets just say its not calibrated and for indication only ..... Chinese tat
Primitively fitted for quick test .... connected to wiper arm with tie wrap
hose t in waste gate and routed around the bonnet under the scuttle and out so no pipe kink
So I have boost
Gauge is at 0 on tick over
and under normal driving conditions I get a max boost of 15 PSI
drops off when de accelerating not stuck on
Looks okay to me ?
Was driving okay
Next is to have live data when driving
No lift in turbo and spins very nicely
I did notice an slight weep of oil above the air connection on turbo where you unbolt one 10mm and rotate it off the peg to remove ... o ring worn ?
has been on / off a few times in my ownership
Engine pitch change at 2200 rpm under load ( HARSH ) injector fault ?
I was reading how easily these injectors can get damaged even if they are just removed .... untouched .... new copper seals fitted ... cannot believe how fragile these are ... or is it down to been over torqued in refitting to succume a potential loose fixture again ?
So my usual fuel station is closed and had to refuel with another brand .. not supermarket and it seems to run a lot better ????
Had it up the motor for a blast and around the dales ( AA card in wallet ) and it seems to drive a lot better ... noise is still there under certain conditions
Came home and I thought I would just plug in clone PP
New faults :
Permanent ECU spark plugs ... you know the score
now this
intermittent fault Pre - heating circuit short to ground ( not touched anything around here ... so ?? )
I have 3 injectors all in negative values on tick over -0.27 - - 036
only one that has a value Cylinder 2 1.80 MG
Still cannot understand when in live data engine revs recorded are 7000-8766 rpm ? when on tickover
Won this off the bay made a very silly offer and was accepted
So it looks more reconditioned than new but probably better than straight out of an scrap engine
All the warning labels say its been tested for 30 minutes
Anyway ...
Not worth ripping engine out ... just yet
Going to do another repair on engine and fit new glow plugs
This car has been driven hard over the last few days, and although its got a injector fault ?? its never missed a beat or given in
These must be tough little engines
I thought if it was camshaft / follower sticking or major fault in fuel system things would be worse
Seems better once I have changed my fuel supplier brand ?
Just be aware that with a relatively inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner, it is easy to make parts pulled off a scrapper look professionally reconditioned or even new, without actually doing anything to them. Then seal them in a bag with a sticker saying no warranty once opened due to risk of contamination....
The main thing is that you now have a spare so you can pull the bad one and send it for testing and repair - I would recommend using an authorised service centre who have the proper test rig and can if required provide a report of the test and repair work carried out.
I'm not sure what 30 minutes of testing proves, I'd have thought it was more important to test at the correct pressure and verify the flow rate and spray pattern are as they should be?
I'm sorry to hear that.
I have had good and bad luck with ebay - the set of injectors I bought for the vectra claimed to be genuine new stock but arrived in plastic bags without dust caps. They worked fine despite not being what they claimed to be, in fact they still are, the vec is back on the road and the 307 is going to the garage tomorrow...
I have however bought some items that turned out to be worse than the part I was planning to replace with them.
Well I still have my 307 and been looking to replace it but nothing interest me
Most used cars seem to be well over priced now
Maybe due to new car sales down and people are hanging on to old cars
Anyway whilst I was browsing saw a 206. 1.4 HDI breaking and 80,000 miles and guy wants 60 quid for engine
Deal was done
he had left it in car so I could hear it run
Chuff on injector but I can sort that
So its a 8HZ. and the 307 is a HX
from first visual check bottom engine pulley is different
is this because of the power steering pump
Its solid cast type than metal rubber damper type
I assume that cannot be kept on the conversion to 307 ?
I was told it would adapt, think its going to be a slow project
My only concern is about the Bosch pump an if the electrical plug is the same on my 2004. mechanical EGR. than this electrical one as it might be a different spec 2005. 206
If I need to change the pump from the donor so I don't really want to put my original pump on as I think its worn and broken up ( metal in fuel )
this job might not get the green light and hunt for another. 8HX
Injector seals well at least 1 is chuffing, but thats good as I want to do them anyway whilst its out on the floor and keep a record of injector numbers
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