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Discussion Starter #1
Well chaps, I guess it had to happen sooner or later....a heater core leak.
I was vacuuming out the car today and noticed a wet slimy patch in the
passenger footwell carpet.
After placing some toilet paper there to absorb it, I took a sniff and sure enough
coolant!....damn bugger and blast!
OK...where was it coming from??
Obviously I will have to do a pressure test to determine if there is a leak and
start tracking it down.
Using a bright torch, I scoured the engine bay and underneath....no sign of a leak.
So, it's obviously internal and is leaking some where higher and dribbling down under the carpet.
My guess is either one of the heater hoses or the matrix itself.
After reading the trusty Haynes manual, it wasn't really clear on the fact whether the
matrix/core is accessible from inside the car or from the engine bay side.
Any help with this will be appreciated.
This is the first cooling system problem I have experienced in 15 years ownership
and 187,000klm.
 

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The heater feed pipes can sometimes leak at the connection on the bulkhead and leak into the vehicle footwell.

Some versions also came with the feed pipes bolted to the matrix which leak at the joint. If the fixed type service info says dash out to remove matrix due to pipes through bulkhead

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The heater feed pipes can sometimes leak at the connection on the bulkhead and leak into the vehicle footwell.

Some versions also came with the feed pipes bolted to the matrix which leak at the joint. If the fixed type service info says dash out to remove matrix due to pipes through bulkhead

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Thanks for your reply Windy.
I have been trawling and came across a couple of vids depicting the operation and
it seems it's dooable with matrix and dash in situ.
I will be able to have a closer inspection Monday when my daughter drops car around ;o)
I've had the glove box out before and that side of lower dash which according to photos and vids gives enough room to poke around.
I'll see if I can add a couple of pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
OK....I have just confirmed my suspicions...there is a very slow pressure loss
after pumping to 17 psi followed by 20 psi.
Dryzabone under the bonnet.....inside is a different matter!
Left footwell is satched this time and running my fingers under the edge of the centre console reveals coolant!
I'm going to make life easier for this 70 year old one eyed old fart and remove the seat and then cut the carpet under the seat to be able to remove the front section
as this carpet is fitted as a one piece unit....
unless somebody tells me different ;o)
I'll blast the carpet section and the mat with suds from my pressure cleaner and
let dry in th sun.....when it pops out ;o)
Then I can get a clear run at it.....last thing I want to do is undo the connections at the
firewall bacause of there awkward position.....stay tuned ;o))
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK guys.....getting the matrix out and pipes separated was a doddle and is very easy on the 307 compared to many cars that require so much dash dismantling.
All I had to do was remove glove box (7 T20 screws) disconnect the light socket, remove one side panel off the left side of under dash with three T20 screws and the leak was exposed.

Sure enough it was dribbling from the flange that joins the two heater pipes to the matrix.
Four T35 screws saw the seat undone and just tilted back saving having to unplug airbag and seat belt plugs.
Because these cars are built with a one piece moulded carpet, I had to get out the trusty industrial scissors and snip a line under the seat and remove the left door sill plastic inner cover and a couple of strategic cuts to allow this section of carpet to be removed sodden with coolant, exposing the 1" thick underlay also sodden.
These were taken out to the driveway and hit with a high pressure sprayer and hung up to dry out

Now to attend to the job at hand.....three T20 screws removed from pipe bracket, pipe flange mounting and one from the matrix mounting....gently pull matrix out to the left about and inch which allows you to wedge out the pipes as you continue to remove the matrix straight gently, not bending delicate fins everywhere, allowing the coolant to drain into a dish placed strategically under the car where I had removed two bungs in the floor....the inner one uncovering the A/C drain which conveniently led to the dish.
With the pressure cap screwed on, very little coolant was lost.
Placed news papers under the back edge of the moulded insulation to soak away the coolant that had soaked into the foam.

Rest of the day was spent chasing 'O' rings to see what would fit the best.
I settled on 25mm outside dia.rings with a cross section of 2.65mm and made of VITON rubber as these will handle the coolant better than ordinary Nitrile rubber ones.
After 15 years and 190,000klm worth of heat/cold cycles, the original rings had shrunk and formed rectangular in cross section.

Tomorrow is reassembly day hopefully and i will be using a little bit of Silastic silicone to smear the rings and flange joint as it all goes back together and will leave it to cure for 24 hrs before refilling coolant and testing.
The longest bit will be getting the underlay and moulded carpet dry enough to put back in position and lay around a few papers and some desiccant balls to absorb moisture and have the heater do a few hot cycles to the footwells to help with drying out
and removing coolant residual smells.

I have also given Peppi an engine oil change (Penrite HPR10) and sucked out and replaced the
power steering fluid with Penrite LDAS PSF.

I will be putting up a picture gallery once I have edited and cropped pics into some semblance of order....stay tuned. ;o))
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good on yer mate! See many devils?
Devils are a bit of a rare species around here ;o))

Phase one is now complete.
Web aquired some VITON rubber 'O' rings this morning 25mmx 2.67mm
which fitted perfectly and an application of Silastic on the mounting flange,
Slip the matrix back in it's slot and gently wiggle the pipes into position a you firmly push the matrix home in it's cubby hole and the pipes slipped home.
Give the matrix a final thump to engage it properly with the little clips and re install the locating screw.
This was followed by the bolt and captive nut tha clamps the mounting flange.
The 'O' rings are subjected to compression from two angles to effect a proper seal
but a little application of Silastic on the mounting flange will ensure an effecttive seal.
I will leave it all for about two hours before I start refilling the cooling system
and brig it fully up to temperature and test for any leakage.
Then I will replace insulation and carpeting which by now has fully dried out followed
by the plastic panels and glove box and finally replace the passenger seat back on it's mountings.
I will still have a thick layer of paper on top of the carpet, then the mat and more
paper for a week or so and run the heater at maximum to footwells to fully dry the
entire area....stay tuned ;o))
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So what you are saying is that they are a devil to see!!
Keep up the good work.

That plus there relative rarity because of the facial tumor didsease that has wiped out 75%
of the devil population.
There is a rebreeding program in progress in isolation areas with known disease free specimens to bolster the population.
 
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