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Discussion Starter #1
Ok chaps looking for a simple yes or no here :confused:

In my quest to get my 110 hopefully on the road I have changed slave cylinder on clutch as the thing snaps into drive as soon as you lift your foot up off pedal (talking an inch here) the DMF squeals like a rats nest on drugs during start and stop and the same when changing gears?

My question is this a pain in the ass (as I have read about) or quite simple? Can it be done without taking sub frame off front?

Considering its done 117k on its first DMF should it be replaced with the same or a single conversion?

cheers for advice guys! :thumb:
 

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Never having owned a 110bhp 307 I can't say for sure but I replaced the clutch with the car in the road outside my house. I didn't need to drop the subframe but there were a couple of places that were really difficult. There was some kind of bracket bolted to the back of the gearbox. Not sure of it's purpose but it seemed to be to limit how far the gearbox (and engine) could roll back as it bottomed out on the subframe. The second awkward part was the long stud that the mounting on the gearbox fits over. I struggled to remove this stud and the box will not come out with it in place. It is threadlocked in place and someone previous had rounded off the flats so I couldn't undo it. I ended up partiall dropping the box and getting it off using a good set of mole grips and a blowtorch.

I did some research into DMF's a while ago and the majority of articles implied the clutch and DMF are manufactured as a matched pair and should always be replaced as a set. The caveat being that you can buy both the clutch and flywheel as seperate items so maybe it's not a recomendation that a lot of people follow. Not the most pratical of possible solutions is remove the clutch and inspect the flywheel and make a cecision on what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Never having owned a 110bhp 307 I can't say for sure but I replaced the clutch with the car in the road outside my house. I didn't need to drop the subframe but there were a couple of places that were really difficult. There was some kind of bracket bolted to the back of the gearbox. Not sure of it's purpose but it seemed to be to limit how far the gearbox (and engine) could roll back as it bottomed out on the subframe. The second awkward part was the long stud that the mounting on the gearbox fits over. I struggled to remove this stud and the box will not come out with it in place. It is threadlocked in place and someone previous had rounded off the flats so I couldn't undo it. I ended up partiall dropping the box and getting it off using a good set of mole grips and a blowtorch.

I did some research into DMF's a while ago and the majority of articles implied the clutch and DMF are manufactured as a matched pair and should always be replaced as a set. The caveat being that you can buy both the clutch and flywheel as seperate items so maybe it's not a recomendation that a lot of people follow. Not the most pratical of possible solutions is remove the clutch and inspect the flywheel and make a cecision on what you find.
Thankyou Storeman for that, good advice and will remember that problem with the long bolt. I think I will replace the clutch (weather dependent) with what it should have.

like you it will be done on driveway or road and im not looking forward to it :(
So thanks again!! :thumb:
 

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Not a bad job subframe can stay in place there is enough room to get the box out with out major stripping of the car other than battery tray and odds and ends. I did mine on my drive in a day.

On my car i decided to swap to a SMF. I did the cheap way by using a secondhand 90 BHP flywheel and a new 90 clutch kit. Over 100K miles later gearbox etc all still fine.

I do have a slight vibration if i pull away at very low revs but this could be down to worn engine mounting as the car has covered over 250K miles.
 

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i fitted the smf to my 110. i have also changed the clutch in a 90 as well. i know same engine

theres alot more pipework for the 110 which took the time. the dual mass is a pain to get off as the whole lot rotates i think i ended up cutting the bolts off. which took ages.

its quite time consuming but once youve done it you break down the jobs. the last one took me 2 days but everything was seized on. the driveshaft i had to remove with part of the gearbox as it was welded in

i brought a whole kit on ebay new so didnt have to mess with s/h parts it was about 100£ delivered which was a bargain

i have a valeo clutch in mine and a luk one in my missus car. i prefer the valeo. it has the old style clutch bearing which is better (luk one documented on her)

you will need brake fluid gearbox seals gearbox oil etc, factor in a bearing guide if it needs it. 2 bottom bushes for the front hubs

the gearbox is a 2 man job at least as its very tight with access to get it out. it is doable (done 3 now ) but theres a risk of breaking the linkage holders

im near the merry hill centre if you ever need a hand
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not a bad job subframe can stay in place there is enough room to get the box out with out major stripping of the car other than battery tray and odds and ends. I did mine on my drive in a day.

On my car i decided to swap to a SMF. I did the cheap way by using a secondhand 90 BHP flywheel and a new 90 clutch kit. Over 100K miles later gearbox etc all still fine.

I do have a slight vibration if i pull away at very low revs but this could be down to worn engine mounting as the car has covered over 250K miles.

Yes Windy, it was you that told me you swapped for a SMF....I knew I heard it can be done. Not sure it would be fun on that driveway you have seen at brothers especially if we have a downpour :(

off to price one up now :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i fitted the smf to my 110. i have also changed the clutch in a 90 as well. i know same engine

theres alot more pipework for the 110 which took the time. the dual mass is a pain to get off as the whole lot rotates i think i ended up cutting the bolts off. which took ages.

its quite time consuming but once youve done it you break down the jobs. the last one took me 2 days but everything was seized on. the driveshaft i had to remove with part of the gearbox as it was welded in

i brought a whole kit on ebay new so didnt have to mess with s/h parts it was about 100£ delivered which was a bargain

i have a valeo clutch in mine and a luk one in my missus car. i prefer the valeo. it has the old style clutch bearing which is better (luk one documented on her)

you will need brake fluid gearbox seals gearbox oil etc, factor in a bearing guide if it needs it. 2 bottom bushes for the front hubs

the gearbox is a 2 man job at least as its very tight with access to get it out. it is doable (done 3 now ) but theres a risk of breaking the linkage holders

im near the merry hill centre if you ever need a hand
Ahh Monty, what can I say, might have hung yourself there lol...ask Windy he's helped me out loads by de-DPF'ing this 110 for me already, he also noticed that the turbo wasn't spooling up......he was straight under and replaced a rubber pipe on the gateway...Legend!! :thumb:

I have already purchased new wishbones, balljoints, drop links, t/r ends and anti roll bar bushes to renew the bottom end.

I'm defo ok for fluids, I was going to order drive shaft oil-seals, what else will I need to replace if you don't mind telling me as I have not done a clutch ever :(

what will I need a bearing guide for? So should I shove a single mass on it and if I order the clutch would it have to be for a 90 model?

thanks soo much in advance!! :thumb:
 

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Impact gun i found was best way to remove flywheel bolts, I then used a double ended ring spanner looped over a bolt in the the clutch cover retaining bolt hole and a bolt fitted in the gearbox mounting bolt hole to lock flywheel to torque up new bolts
 

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I'd suggest getting a clutch alignment kit. An extra expense for something that may only get used onece BUT well worth the money. If the friction plate isn't perfectly centralised then you will be lucky to get the gearbox input shaft into the bearing at the centre of the crankshaft. If you did manage to get it in it could quickly destroy the clutch.

I'd get one like this one...... 17pc Universal Clutch Alignment Aligning Car van Garage Tool Set | eBay
 

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35mm socket for the driveshaft nut. the oil seals you can tap in with a socket.

you need torx bits for the engine mount a jack to take the weight. theres loads. when i did mine i was horrified how many tools i used lol

the bearing guide is inside the gearbox where the release bearing slides on. if its worn it will need replacing
 
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